Vegetable Oil to Pass Emissions

Status
Not open for further replies.
What about G-Oil.
It says:
Provide significant reductions in HC (hydrocarbons -32%), CO (carbon monoxide -48%) and NOx (nitrous oxides -80% emissions

My last test 3 years ago I was just short of meeting Nox, 4.8085 max 4.000. I know a new cat will solve that but rather not spend that much cash.

Only problem, the only G-Oil I can find locally is the 4-Cycle Bio-Synthetic 10w-30. Is there any reason not to use 4 cycle oil in my motor? Meets API SM, SL, SJ, SH standards for gasoline engine lubricants. My motor calls for SG or SH. If its not good, will it hurt anything for about 100 mi or less?
 
Correct, I have seen studies done on Canola based engine oils in the past, can't remember when they were done, but they claimed they drastically outferformed even synthetic oils... I can't say if that is possible or not, but with refining... ?

Bottom line, don't put it in your crankcase
 
Colorado changed the emissions levels for lots of older vehicles. My year use to allow 6 NOx and now its 4. I would of passed under the older allowed levels. They also use a dyno to do the test to simulate city, hwy and hills at different speeds.
 
If it's NOx emissions, then as stated it's either EGR or perhaps cat. Does not sound like massive costs to repair. If the vehicle is rust free and not in bad shape, why not get a real fix?

Flip side is, vehicle might be worth all of $1k, by your admission. Or less. But what would it cost to replace it? Can you sell it for $1k, and add say the $1k it would take to fix it up (if you had kept it) -- and reasonably replace the vehicle for $2k?

If it costs you $5k to properly replace your vehicle (based upon your preferences, $5k is sort of a guess based upon casual shopping in my neck of the woods for my level of what I'd buy) then dropping a grand to fix what you already have is a cheaper option than replacement. Even if the vehicle is only worth all of $500.
 
Originally Posted By: Bladecutter
Originally Posted By: landtoy80
94 Toyota Land Cruiser 416,000 "original" miles.
1 qt 1000 to 2000 miles.

Rebuilding the motor is not an option as the vehicle is not quite worth $1000 if that. I drive it till it dies or it wont pass emissions.


Time to junk the truck, since it meets your criteria for junking it.

BC.


That is quite a few miles, it has had a full life x2 already. How is the rest of the vehicle (electrics, body, other parts of drive train)..do you think it will go a lot further?

Try the least expensive measures suggested already and if it still won't pass...your choices will be clear.
 
It is showing its age, rust, but it still runs fine. Just made a trip CO to CA and back.

Problem with fixing it is the price of gas. With the drop in oil prices, the oil companies are pulling out of new production and that means I will either be out of a job or working part time hours so there is no $$$ to fix or repair at this time.
 
Originally Posted By: Smokescreen

Try the least expensive measures suggested already and if it still won't pass...your choices will be clear.


Agree, how close was "a little over" on NoX.

Typically a lot of the quick fixes won't work, but spend like $50 on some quick fixes and some cleaning or replacement of small cheap parts, and maybe you'll slip under.
Especially if this is stuff you haven't done for awhile.

Not sure of your car, but for me, the cheap list is oil change, airfilter change, new PCV, throttleboddy and MAF cleaning, redline si-1 in with a tank of premium fuel, and a few "italian" tuneups.
 
Last edited:
Pull a current inspection sticker off of something else...

I didn't say that.



Or drive without. It may be years before you get a ticket. I've driven many many miles on expired or no sticker on windshield.
 
I doubt that the oil is causing your high NOX. You need to see why your combustion chamber temps are so high.Timing, EGR issues,lean fuel mixture and maybe too much deposits in the combustion chamber raising the compression. Dirty oil might raise HC and CO.
 
Last edited:
G-Oil replied to my question "whats difference between 4 cycle oil and car oil"

Answer:
The 4 cycle oils have been formulated and tested for OPE – Outdoor Power and Equipment. The PCMO Passenger Car Motor Oils have been tested and formulated for Automobiles according to those specs.
The PCMO is SN and the latest OPE is SJ and has not gone through the III-G Test which is required for Passenger Car Motor Oil Certification with the American Petroleum Institute.

Not much of an answer. At least its better than the first answer I got from them, "4 cycle is mix oil and 10w30 is for cars"
 
Oil is going to have very little to do with NOX. This is a high peak temperature combustion phenomenon. If possible with your vehicle, you may try retarding the ignition timing four degrees or so..provided you just need a little push to get you over the top.
 
NOx is a high combustion temperature thing. That is why EGR is in place, it pollutes the intake charge a bit to lower the combustion temperature.
 
Some of my Jeeps(my 1985 Grand Wagoneers AMC 360 and 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokees 5.2 Magnum V8) have done well with a few ounces of bacon grease mixed in with their usual ND30 filled sumps.
 
Originally Posted By: 84zmyfavorite
Some of my Jeeps(my 1985 Grand Wagoneers AMC 360 and 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokees 5.2 Magnum V8) have done well with a few ounces of bacon grease mixed in with their usual ND30 filled sumps.


I sincerely hope you are kidding.

Bacon grease has a high level of salts in the form of Sodium Nitrates.
crazy2.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

S
Honda earth dreams 1.5 NA strange oil recommendations
Replies
2
Views
1K
SureshR
M
Which oil for breaking in 2024 F250 7.3?
3 4 5
Replies
80
Views
3K
Randy_R
E
Castrol EDGE High Mileage 0W20 Synthetic on Low Mileage
Replies
2
Views
1K
Vitamin Yoda
Z
Why not just run a Euro oil?
2
Replies
29
Views
2K
ka9mnx
buster
Gas Engine Reliability: Understanding Engine Oil Consumption
Replies
2
Views
835
DirectRejection
Back
Top