Vanish, Sludge or carbon build up? Solution please

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Hi guys, Long time reader, first time poster I've brought a Toyota runx z (toyota matrix 2zzge version in the state) mid last year with unknown service history at 92,000km. Oil was beyond black when acquired so first oil change was done with havoline dino 10w30 SN as I wanted to clean the engine out a bit. Second oil change was done with havoline again, open the rocker cover to change the lift bolts to find the black carbon/ vanish as shown below, I've wipe away what I can and it came off pretty easy. This was not good so I got some Amsoil engine n tranny flush, and fill it back up with edge 5w30 TI SL (FST) (there is no SN version down here). A year has pass (100,500km) and I've opened the rocker cover again to find that not much has change, any solution??? I've used oem toyota filter at all times, running on 95 octane, can do 98 if that's a solution and I do short trips about 10 min/8km each way to work. I do drive it hard sometime in the weekend. Would love to run PP or PU but choices here is pretty limited, I was thinking about going with mobil 1 5w30 in hopes that it will help clean up. shrug
 
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Wish you had a beforehand pic. Doesn't look too bad from here. I can tell you that mobil 1 5w30 cleaned up a badly sludged gm v8 for me but it took about 50k miles to make it spotless.
 
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Looks fine to me. As long consumption isn't an issue do a few short runs with PP or what ever you choose. After that follow manufactures recommendation. Thanks for sharing.
 
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That engine looks fine. If it were mine I would probably do 5,000 mile changes with Pennzoil conventional. The Havoline you're using is a great oil too.
 
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you could try auto-rx but I'm not sure how effective that would be considering you've already done a flush. I think i would just switch to a full synthetic next oil change as long as you don't have any leaks.
 
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Looks pretty good to me too . Why are you running a 95 octane fuel ? Is a premium fuel required in that car ? If it doesn't need it don't use it , your car will run better on regular if that is all that is recommended .
 
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Is that sludge that's broken off in chunks? I'd avoid an engine flush and try Auto-Rx. The only problem is that there are people on this board that don't like the product and post a lot of negative comments and the owner of Auto-Rx did not help his cause by not showing more patience with many unfounded comments. You should consider trying it but be patient. It take a few thousand miles to show results but that's the kind of cleanup that you want. You don't want a bunch of crud coming off all at once. My experience with the product has been excellent.
 
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Looks okay. I would never use a tranny flush product though. Use the edge motor oil by itself and change it when it's time. Also the word VARNISH is what we use to describe the coating of all the parts by a usually dark color all over. VANISH means to disappear. Lol
 
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From the pictures you posted there really is not anything to worry about. Just change your oil at a reasonable OCI and everything will be OK.
 
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Doesn't look that bad to me either. You could run PYB 5k OCIs since it seems PP in your area is a hard find.
 
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I think the engine looks great as most here have said the same. Don't use the super premium fuel if it is not req'd by your vehicle (it actually can form more deposits as it does not burn as hot) and just keep reasonable OCI's with a decent oil. Since you drive mostly short distances I would use a good conventional and change at 3-4k/6mo. Looks like you are doing a good job though, nice engine!
 
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I agree with others that it doesn't appear to be so bad at all. Mobil 1 is a good choice. How about PYB? Lots of folks speak highly of its cleaning ability. Keep to the 5k OCIs and... Am I going to get spanked if I suggest MMO ?
 
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[quote=Finz] Am I going to get spanked if I suggest MMO?[quote] MMO is good stuff. I recently starting using it again after I bought my 2000 Expedition. I've seen minimal negative comments about it and see no reason not to use it. It's the perfect application for this engine, if you ask me. Run a quart of it (without overfilling) 500 miles before the next oil change as a cleaning cycle.
 
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Originally Posted By: chubbs1
I think the engine looks great as most here have said the same. Don't use the super premium fuel if it is not req'd by your vehicle (it actually can form more deposits as it does not burn as hot)
For sake of correctness, that's plain and simple incorrect. Octane rating has nothing to do with combustion completeness or temperature.
 

pjnz

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Wow!! thanks guys, first time post didn't expect to get so much responses, lots of great info here. I'm running 95 octane as the compression ratio is 11.5:1, JDM motor calls for a higher octane I believe since its been tunes that way. But yeah will keep up with the regular oil change, unfortunately the markets down there is rule by Castrol, we can't get Pennzoil any more or even any dino 5w30 oil off the shelf. Just to give you guys an idea, Mobil 1 5w30 5 liter cost $97 NZD here, that roughly about $78 USD frown
 
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As stated before, I would've liked to have seen the "before" pictures. Why change oils? It appears as if the Havoline is working just fine, if there was a problem there to start with. What is the price of Havoline compared to Mobil 1? No reason to switch, especially if it's cheaper.
 
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pjnz

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I didn't take the before photo but it look roughly the same as now, price of havoline 10w30 SN 4.0L is $32 NZD so about $26 US. But I guess you right, regular oil change with good dino oil should do the trick.
 
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Originally Posted By: pjnz
, unfortunately the markets down there is rule by Castrol, we can't get Pennzoil any more or even any dino 5w30 oil off the shelf. Just to give you guys an idea, Mobil 1 5w30 5 liter cost $97 NZD here, that roughly about $78 USD frown
Holy smokes... That's a lot of kiwi!
 
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