I read some info on this oil and liked that it has a high zinc content for added anti-wear protection. So i called Valvoline and spoke to a rep there to ask if this oil is safe to use in my two small lawnmower engines (Honda 160cc and Kawasaki twin cylinder FR651V.) As of today, the Honda has the 10W30 while the Kawasaki has the 20W50. I ran both for a few minutes to get the oil circulated. I have read differing opinions about using this oil in non-racing or high performnance engines---some even saying the oil will turn "sludgy" and/or actually do harm. Any expertise is surely appreciated.
Valvoline VR1 Synthetic Racing oil (black bottle)
- Thread starter BTBO
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VR1 is more or less a street oil with high ZDDP that makes in unsuitable for most vehicles with a catalytic converters, it's perfectly fine for any engine without a cat that's being changed at normal intervals, Now there are some true Racing oils out there that you shouldn't use for anything but racing that are designed to be used a few races and be changed that are loaded with anti-wear and maybe friction modified but have almost no TBN retention with low detergency and low anti-oxidants.
They don't seem to have anything about it on their website anymore, I don't know if they still sell it or not, but they used to have "Not Street Legal" Racing oil that stuff should only be used for racing and is a poor choice to run in just about any application that's not a race car that's being changed after every event.
VR1 oils are street oils with higher zinc they're fine to use in small engines or cars without a cat, it can be used for whatever interval is specified by the manufacturer, the "Not Street Legal" series which I guess has now been renamed "Pro-V" on the other hand are not suitable for useage other than in racing.
“Unsuitable for engines with catalytic converters” IF the engine is consuming oil. If the engine is in decent shape then there’s nothing wrong with using it.
I don't sweat the catalytic converter issue. If you're not consuming oil, then it's not an issue. If you are consuming enough oil to cause damage, then you have bigger problems than your catalytic converter.
That oil will be fine in a small engine.
That oil will be fine in a small engine.
Yes it will. But at the same time unnecessary since "high zinc content for added anti-wear protection" is irrelevant here. More does not always equal better except from "some posts from people on different sites".
The Kawasaki engine has 142 hours on it, while the Honda has maybe 50 hours run time. During the off season, I run both at least twice monthly for several minutes. I change the oil and filter (Kawasaki) on both at the start of cutting season regardless of run time.
I agree. It's overkill and not needed. If the OP has some of it laying around though, there's no harm in using it. My small engines get HPL HDMO because I have a good bit of it on the shelf.
As long as you think it helps that’s what matters.
OK---final word on this from the Valvoline rep. He says to see if the engines require an API rating for the oil used. If they do, such as SL. SJ, etc., then he advises to NOT USE the VR1 since it does not have an API rating, which may cause damage. So I guess I will be draining both engines, refilling with an API rated oil, run a few minutes to "rinse out" the VR1, drain again and refill with Mobil 1 which is what I was using before.
The VR1 is fine in a small engine, the only reason it doesn't carry the API rating is that the ZDDP is too high for modern API service classes that are centered around protecting emissions equipment, unless they recently stopped the bottles did say it was suitable API Service Class SL and preceding. In a small engine or a car with no catalyst it's just as fine as any other oil on the market today.
Valvoline did stop with the API rating "donut" as per the black bottles I currently have. The apprehension I have is about having to replace an engine because of incorrect oil used. But with several people here saying the oil is ok to use, then maybe it's a matter of "two+ heads are better than one."
You're not going to have to replace the engine by using VR1.
That is hogwash. You spoke with some marketing meatbag, who likely doesn't know engine oil from olive oil, and is just feeding you a line of crap off a piece of paper. If you dump that oil, you will just be wasting good oil. That small engine doesn't care.
This is a big reason I can't stand licensing and certifications in their current form. VR1 is, without any shadow of a doubt, a better oil than any API SP oil off the shelf. The API rating really only helps with identifying and isolating cheap off-brand oils selling line flush as engine oil. Unfortunately, API standards also put a ceiling on oil performance because of restrictions to additive content, base oil blends, etc... and forces all oils under that license into a small underwhelming box. VR1 doesn't have an API license because it performs above that ceiling that API indirectly creates. In fact, the only reason it doesn't pass API is because of SAPS. That small engine doesn't even have a catalytic converter, EGR, or anything else emissions related so the whole limiting factor for VR1 with API is moot.