Personally, I haven't been very impressed with the valvoline AC and synthetic oils. The durablend and maxlife seem to do fine, but the synthetic is an overpriced, weak oil.
Valvoline SynPower - The under rated synthetic?
- Thread starter LSVTEC 91 Civic
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How do you figure?
Look at the 10w30 Synpower:
Flash Point: 250C (482F)
NOACK: 8
Pour Point: -42C
Those are pretty good numbers. But I agree that probably the best of Valvoline is Durablend and Maxlife.
Do you have the same numbers for other leading Synthetics? I don't believe Maxlife and Durablend is better than SynPower. Maxlife scored a 500 on that link I posted up at the top.
I don't have numbers for other synthetics. I know the Citgo synthetic oil beats Synpower on cold crank and cold pumping.
I was not clear in my post. At Valvoline, I think the best bang for the buck is Durablend and Maxlife. Most any synthetic should score better than Maxlife since Maxlife is predominantly a dino.
The synpower is good, but for the same money (or less) you an get Mobil 1, which I understand to be better than most other "synthetics."
Wrong is not = good
I should have elaborated more, sorry. For the money the oil costs, Mobil-1 is generally cheaper than Synpower and it is a much better oil. As for the price catergory, the MaxLife and Durablend seem to fair very well, for what they cost, relatively compared to others. And the All-Climate conventional...well, valvoline keeps rising the price, and the quality leaves almost everything to be desired. The engine in the last winter car (94 Corsica) use much less oil, sounded better and gave better cold starts with SuperTech at $.84/qt than Valvoline for $1.79/qt. I wasn't impressed at all. However, the MaxLife products have treated my vehicles well.
The claim is NAPA synthetic is Valvoline Snythetic. I have seen the NAPA Syn on sale for $2.69/qt, regular price $3.49/qt. This oil performed second best in my homemade Noack test, second only to Amsoil, and much better than many top of the line European synthetics. This test says nothing about the aditive package but as a base oil it looks to be of pretty high quality, based on thermal stability. At the prices above, is this an oil worthy of consideration? I have certainly considered it, especially in conjunction with Valvoline's oil treatment which shows some pretty nice additives at high concentration. I think VOA of both the NAPA syn and the oil treatments are available.
I bought some at $2.69
Last bump...
Anybody have more SynPower information? How about SynPower vs RP oil, which is better? (Based on facts, of course...)
Anybody have more SynPower information? How about SynPower vs RP oil, which is better? (Based on facts, of course...)
I am in the process of ordering 7 cases of Royal Purple, so the only facts I can give you is I have some free SynPower in the garage, and I won't use it. Giving it to my SIL. Which is better? For my money, no question.
Synpower Noack
5w-20 - 11
5w-30 - 11
10w-30 - 8
Valvoline Synpower 10w-30 UOA used in a turbocharged Volvo with many short trips in an engine with known fuel problems .
It did well
The only other 30wt Synpower UOA here was skewed with additives so I did not pull it up .
Hey Valvoline , you know that 0w-30 MXL you make in the USA and ship overseas ?
Well we want some in quart bottles for here in the USA
for 5 bucks a quart if ya can
[ October 08, 2004, 06:47 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
5w-20 - 11
5w-30 - 11
10w-30 - 8
Valvoline Synpower 10w-30 UOA used in a turbocharged Volvo with many short trips in an engine with known fuel problems .
It did well
Hey Valvoline , you know that 0w-30 MXL you make in the USA and ship overseas ?
Well we want some in quart bottles for here in the USA
for 5 bucks a quart if ya can
[ October 08, 2004, 06:47 PM: Message edited by: Motorbike ]
As I posted elsewhere the NAPA synthetic 15/50 may do well to add a little to M1 10/30 for the price.
Is it your opinion that RP is better, or fact? If I do change from SynPower to RP, which RP do you recommend. RP 10w30, or RP Racing 41? This is my weekend/track car, I don't put many miles on it at all, it sits most of the time. When I do drive it i'm making pulls to 8,000 RPM. No oil consumption, seals are new. My car seems to like the SynPower 10w30 since I filled it up 80 miles ago.quote:
Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
I am in the process of ordering 7 cases of Royal Purple, so the only facts I can give you is I have some free SynPower in the garage, and I won't use it. Giving it to my SIL. Which is better? For my money, no question.
I've been thinking about switching over to Amsoil, but their marketing seems fishy
Thanks for your info, Motorbike.
Hey this sounds like just the thing for my wife's short tripping Aerostar (that is, if I get/have the lead issue resolved).
Hey folks, the NAPA synth is back to $2.69 for the month of October again. I was at my local NAPA yesterday and was going to pick up a few qts of the 10w30 and they were cleaned out of that grade.
If NAPA is approximately Synpower, I need to call Valvoline and get the NOACK on the NAPA 10w30 to see if it is as good as the Synpower NOACK.
As for Synpower, the MSDS shows the 20w50 to be PAO based. Mistake? The others all show Group III. No matter. Who in North America uses 20w50 anyway? Not me?
Napa oil is group III
Synpower is PAO/group III
Different formulas , completely different oils is all I'm saying just in an effort to get the facts straight .
Synpower is PAO/group III
Different formulas , completely different oils is all I'm saying just in an effort to get the facts straight .
[/qb][/QUOTE]Is it your opinion that RP is better, or fact? If I do change from SynPower to RP, which RP do you recommend. RP 10w30, or RP Racing 41? This is my weekend/track car, I don't put many miles on it at all, it sits most of the time. When I do drive it i'm making pulls to 8,000 RPM. No oil consumption, seals are new. My car seems to like the SynPower 10w30 since I filled it up 80 miles ago.
I've been thinking about switching over to Amsoil, but their marketing seems fishy
[/QB][/QUOTE]
Amsoil marketing is what it is, it does not affect the performance of their oil. Judge the oil not the marketing.
If you are happy with a 10W30 oil now, then the RP-21 racing oil is the best choice. About double the price that you are paying now. But the RP-21 is top oil.
It is my opinion that RP is a better oil. I have to buy the Royal Purple and the Valvoline was free with the rebate. Also I like using a Full Synthetic Group IV/V oil instead of an overpriced Group III.
I've been thinking about switching over to Amsoil, but their marketing seems fishy
[/QB][/QUOTE]
Amsoil marketing is what it is, it does not affect the performance of their oil. Judge the oil not the marketing.
If you are happy with a 10W30 oil now, then the RP-21 racing oil is the best choice. About double the price that you are paying now. But the RP-21 is top oil.
It is my opinion that RP is a better oil. I have to buy the Royal Purple and the Valvoline was free with the rebate. Also I like using a Full Synthetic Group IV/V oil instead of an overpriced Group III.
I did use M1 before my engine was rebuilt. I quit using Mobil 1 because my seals went bad 6,000mi down the road, and oil consumption went up. Every VTEC engine i've seen that runs Mobil 1 consumes oil, not sure why.
As of now I'm not consuming any SynPower. I don't think i'll be able to do a UOA on it, because I hardly drive the car. I'll drive it around on the weekends, or to the track, but thats about it. I won't be able to get 3,000 miles on the oil before I change it out.
What was the engine's history at the time you had a problem? A friend of mine uses M1 5w-30 in his wife's Odyssey, which of course, has the 3.5L VTEC V-6. He has not observed any difficulty on M1. As you can see if you nose around this site long enough, the Mobil-1 30 wt grades all tend toward the thin end of the 30 wt spec. If the engine is older or otherwise damaged, perhaps a thicker 30 (like GC for example) or even a 40 would work better.
Semper Fi.
Semper Fi.
Engine had 6k on it when valve seals went, they may have been old when rebuilt, but mobil 1 triggered the leak. I've seen many B series VTEC engines consume M1, not just mine. Thats why I went over to SynPower.
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