I bought a 2001 Nissan Frontier xe 2.4 RWD that had 151,000 miles on it. I have been using R&P in it and I’m on the 4th run of it. When I first got it I could go about 185 miles to a tank of gas and now I can easily get 240 to 300 to a tank of gas. My little truck runs dang good with R&P in it. I will say if you have a high mileage vehicle and run R&P just change the oil filter early cause more then likely it will clog up from the cleaning that it does. I’m so impressed with R&P that I’m running it in a new 2025 Honda CRV 1.5 and a 2024 Jeep wrangler 3.6.
Valvoline Restore & Protect
- Thread starter Scott S
- Start date
That top row looks like a totally different piston design to the bottom row. Am I missing something?
- Joined
- Jul 6, 2024
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- 58
They are absolutely different pistons for sure form top row to bottom row.
So when I buy a used vehicle I always change the spark plugs and wires and I also change the air filter, just normal maintenance stuff. I did that the day I bought it and I just started keeping up with gas per tank mileage and it really sucked, even after changing the stuff I mentioned. It was about midway through the 2nd run of R&P I started noticing that the mileage per tank going up. I’m no expert on anything but it had to be the R&P making the engine more efficient as it got cleaner, just like it was when it was new I’m guessing.
I just exchanged the fluid in my 97 Civic HX that I had last changed Oct. 2023 using Valvoline FS MaxLife 0w20 which was fine going into winter but not so much now with as hot that it's been as of late. It was only driven 1,590 miles which is why I only did a fluid swap and it has a Wix XP that is good for 10k. I thought I was having pressure issues with all this heat and using a 20w oil but it is a different filter from what I typically use. At first I thought it resolved it but did take a bit longer for the oil to warm up due to the 5w30 but afterwards when the oil got nice and hot the pressure went back exactly to where it was running with the 0w20. I really don't think it's an issue, at cold it jumps to 60 and then drops to 50 and then 40, when hot at highway speeds driving 55-60mph it's around 35-40. If I wind the gears out I can get it to increase which tells me that it's operating properly, if it stayed constant or dropped then it's a serious issue.
Right now my goal is to just monitor it and see if the R&P does anything, I don't know if it's a good candidate as I've been using synthetics for a very long time along with proper changes but the car does have 227k. I used an oil extractor that I bought from Amazon with the hand pump that goes in the dipstick tube. I removed just over 3 qts so I didn't quite get it all but then I didn't change the filter either. I was able to transfer the oil over into an empty oil jug and will use what's left for top-off.
Right now my goal is to just monitor it and see if the R&P does anything, I don't know if it's a good candidate as I've been using synthetics for a very long time along with proper changes but the car does have 227k. I used an oil extractor that I bought from Amazon with the hand pump that goes in the dipstick tube. I removed just over 3 qts so I didn't quite get it all but then I didn't change the filter either. I was able to transfer the oil over into an empty oil jug and will use what's left for top-off.
Has anyone been able to find the R&P in Ontario , Canada?.. I chatted with Valvoline's online chat and they have no clue, I called their Global Operations team at 1-800-832-6825 and they have no clue.. I tried to get a hold of someone at Valvoline here in MIssissauga and their Voice system doesnt allow a front desk option (0), I need to know someone's name..
Never thought it would be so hard to find a product.
Never thought it would be so hard to find a product.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Well that explains the secret cleaning sauce in VRP Buster. It's Moonshine.Kentucky.
Don't be giving out secrets.
I don't know what pistons they used or didn't use. I have no reason to believe it doesn't work. Everything I've seen so far suggests it works. The LSJ video is what gave me confidence it works. There have also been people posting visuals showing it cleaned where oil barely comes in contact with the metal.
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Kinda got me wondering what type of driving style makes it work... fuel dilution can't be good and I can't help but try and siphon out a QT or two over 10k oci just to feel safe and give my engine oil some reinforcement. I would like to run the PUP 10w30 over this summer heat, but I feel the RL 5w30 still has it beat performance wise. Think I will stick to boutique but top off with M1 EP 5w30 or 10w30. I do notice better results siphoned out a bit than trying to top off once a week on a cold engine. GDI dilution is a real struggle
Would you rather it clean the intake valves or not get them dirty with a lower noack oil? This is just my mind spinning the wheel after dinner. I think driving operation has a lot to do with it. Apparently Valvoline has a terrible issue with people using the oil and then filling it back with the drained oil and returning it. They should get a hold of @TiGeo for details. I'm still on board with M1EP or PUP to top off in my application though I wish Shell would get it together with damper resistant seals on their bottles
The guy I bought the truck from owns a service station and a used car lot. He did all the services on the truck when he had it. I know he didn’t use quality oil in the oil changes because he told me so. I knew it probably had a lot of build up in the engine and the VRP has cleaned it out. I know VRP is pretty new in the oil world but what it has done for my little truck is a night and day difference from what it was when I bought it. I’m not one to push anything on anyone but for me it has worked.
a successful story on a product and it's user. Thanks! We all got our failure and success stories so hopefully more people will have your luck. I would have ran BG EPR, did a throttle cleaning and ran pea treatment but you showed your way worked and go on you. Probably not a bad idea for occasionally running fuel system cleaners, etc to maintain as well as open road highway. Change pc valve and clean egr yet?
I haven’t changed the pc valve or cleaned the egr yet but it probably needs to be done. I haven’t done any fuel additives or throttle body cleaning. I need to get on this stuff cause I’m sure it will make a difference.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
Our GDI dilution seems to have slowed lately. I realize that now, the hottest time of the year is known for less dilution. Some say even making it a bit harder to detect minus lab test results. About 3 oci back I began to use a mix of (1.5) qts HPL PPCMO 0w30 + (2) qts HPL PPCMO 0w20. The HPL appeared , (after first 3-4 oci) to have done some cleaning. That assumption is from fact I noticed in between oci that slowly the color stayed cleaner looking on the stick. In addition to that , the fuel smell is almost undetectible in between oci. Who knows how this will end up once the weather gets cold towards end of the year?
One simple thing that could be helping , that has zero to do with the Brand oil in the sump is maybe the 0w30 is helping the engine heat up faster, resulting in less fuel making it and staying in the oil. Of course not a miracle "fix." There is none for a 100% known design flaw that the manufacturer refuses to admit to. Yet at this point, anything is helpful since the wife loves her car so much, dilution or no dilution.Similar threads
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