Valvoline Restore & Protect

YZJB said:
An ILSAC 5w-30 will have a maximum HTHS of 3.5. A 504/507 has a minimum HTHS of 3.5. Very different oils.
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No disagreement here.

Respectfully, I ask again, do we know the HTHS of 5W-30 VR&P?

It is understood the ILSAC so-called “energy conserving” requirement makes an HTHS of over 3.3 vanishingly unlikely. Whereas vw504/7 require >3.5.

I, personally, have decided to use 5W-30 VR&P in my 271,xxx-mile 2008 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.2L, knowing it is not a vw502 oil; Six quarts of VR&P supplemented with 1qt of HPL EC SAE 40.
 
Since the Q7 calls for the Euro 5w-40, I was thinking to that an occasional bottle between oil changes would not damage it as I am not running a full seven quarts of R&P. Y'all have used some letter and numbers that I am not totally familiar with, so I will study that before doing anything.

It seems to be back on using a quart every 1000+ miles or so. Much better than it was before the OPR repair. So, I thought using a quart of the R&P as one or two of the top-up quarts between oil changes (alternating between the R&P and the 5w-40)might offer a little cleaning while not affecting the viscosity too much. Hell, by the time the OCI comes around (if I were to follow Audi's scheduling), I have probably done an oil change. I am not going to wait that long from now on. I think that their OCI recommendation is too long for my liking.


I thank you both for your opinions and welcome more.
 
facility1 said:
why not run R&P at the viscosity recommended by your car specs and use as it is intended instead of mixing with other oils and viscositys,,it seems like the formulators at Valvoline may know what's best and how to achive the proper intended results rather than play backyard chemist.
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If you're referring to the post above, saying "Since the Q7 calls for the Euro 5w-40, I was thinking to that an occasional bottle" … Valvoline doesn't make R&P in that viscosity nor in a Euro spec.
 
soyelmocano said:
Since the Q7 calls for the Euro 5w-40, I was thinking to that an occasional bottle between oil changes would not damage it as I am not running a full seven quarts of R&P. Y'all have used some letter and numbers that I am not totally familiar with, so I will study that before doing anything.

It seems to be back on using a quart every 1000+ miles or so. Much better than it was before the OPR repair. So, I thought using a quart of the R&P as one or two of the top-up quarts between oil changes (alternating between the R&P and the 5w-40)might offer a little cleaning while not affecting the viscosity too much. Hell, by the time the OCI comes around (if I were to follow Audi's scheduling), I have probably done an oil change. I am not going to wait that long from now on. I think that their OCI recommendation is too long for my liking.


I thank you both for your opinions and welcome more.
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I'd run it for 3k-5k oci with the R&P, just not longer. If you are worried about being a smidgen lighter add bottle of Schaeffer Moly EP or as posted about stp. Those will make them a 40grade.
 
PWMDMD said:
There's a difference between healthy skepticism and summarily and categorically dismissing all claims made by everyone in an authority position that can not be immediately verified. Has the government lied? Yes! Does the government lie about everything? No. Do doctors make mistakes and miss diagnoses? Yes! Do doctors miss all diagnoses? No. Do scientists get it wrong and/or lie? Yes! Do all scientists do this? No.

Each and every case has to be evaluated independently based on its own merits - who is saying it, what they are saying, and what information is available to corroborate or discredit what they are saying. We don't do this anymore as a society and instead we say because government, doctors, or scientists could be or have lied or they have been wrong, we should automatically discredit everything they say, even if what they say is plausible and there is no evidence to support they are wrong. It's another form of apathy - it's easier to just discredit all claims instead of doing the hard work of actually considered individual ideas and evidence. We've gone well past healthy skepticism to automatic disbelief of even everyday plausible claims.

In this case, could Valvoline be lying? Sure. Is there any evidence or history of Valvoline lying? Not to my knowledge. Does this mean I'm 100% certain they are telling 100% truth? Of course not, and if someone presents credible evidence to suggest otherwise, I'll consider that evidence, but many here have just defaulted to Valvoline must be lying, and that's not a sensible conclusion based on what we know.
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I might have to use this well-reasoned post more broadly, if you don't mind a bit of plagiarism for the greater good.
 
I noticed something interesting while browsing the Advance Auto Parts website: Valvoline R&P 10W30. I've not previously seen this specific viscosity anywhere else, and when I search the likes of Amazon, Walmart, O'Reilly, and Autozone, no dice. It also isn't listed on Valvoline's website. Is this a mistake, or a precursor of a wider variety of weights to come?

1 quart:

5 quart:
 
Sequoiasoon said:
Take advantage of the HPL July 4th sale and get some Euro of whichever viscosity you need. You can run full or use a quart as you plan to with R&P. It will at least be great oil to your spec or better.
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Much better decision is to run Mobil 1 ESP X2 with 1 quart of NEW Valvoline R&P(b.o. typical crankcase volume of 4 to g quarts). The M1's properties will hardly be affected, & you will get slow bottom end cleaning from the VR&P. Any HPL grade is vast overkill, since the owner said they'll go to 35k miles OCI, but their customer base doesn't have the comfort level to usually even go past 10k miles OCI. Actually, even Walmart Supertech is sufficient, & more than enough to get the job done well enough. Boogie assets = boogie oil selection.
 
CarlB said:
The car
-2008 Subaru Forester Sports XT w/ VF48 turbo, 285k miles.
-185k miles on this OEM short block.
-Fresh turbo rebuild
-Eats 1qt of Rotella T6 5w-40 every 250 miles.
-Noticeable pre-ignition at low RPM, car falls on face and bucks if you add load below 2,500 rpm. You have to gently get over 2,500RPM, then it runs normally. My assumption is the blowby contaminated oil is just entering the combustion chamber. Could be via ring seal, breathers or combination of both.

The compression is pretty consistent except for cylinder #1 at 135PSI where the others are 145-150PSI. My plan was initially to just buy an OEM short block, have the D25 heads rebuilt and rock on for another 180k miles. I've tried soaking pistons by putting B12 into the cylinders, but this being a boxer engine makes that peculiar. Cylinder #1 spark plug has noticeable contamination.

Out of curiosity, I figured before I spend $2200 on a new short block from Subaru I'd try this liquid mechanic. I'm 1,000 miles into running 5w-30 Restore & Protect and the car has required 1.5-1.7 qts of total top off in 1k miles instead of 4 qts (1qt per fill up). Immediately after changing to R&P the misfire improved dramatically, no longer immediately falls on its face. The misfire improvement I'm assuming is the old oil was EXTREMLY contaminated, so any fresh oil would have helped.

It's too early to call it, but something has changed in this cars oil consumption after swapping from Rotella T6 to R&P.
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1k - 1,500 mile update.

The tank from 1,250 to 1,500 miles behaved more like what I'm used to with the car. It consumed 1qt of oil during that 250miles. It also started to exhibit the misfire at low RPM again. My guess is that the oil is now overly contaminated from blow-by.

I used a glove test and a pressure gauge on the oil fill cap. The best I can describe the crankcase pressure using glove observation and the mechanical gauge is "flutter." The overall trend is vacuum, but there is periodic pulses of positive pressure that can be seen as the needle vibrating. The glove pulses. My speculation is that cylinder #1 is the one causing some blow-by, but not enough to swing overall crankcase pressure positive since the intake inlet is drawing vacuum using all 4 cylinders.

Now I'm debating doing an early change on the Restore and Protect. Just to see if it can have a chance at this ringland deposit. It very well might be a mechanical crack or bend in the ringland, but I'd like to wait a little longer before pulling the engine.
 
Son_of_shots said:
Much better decision is to run Mobil 1 ESP X2 with 1 quart of NEW Valvoline R&P(b.o. typical crankcase volume of 4 to g quarts). The M1's properties will hardly be affected, & you will get slow bottom end cleaning from the VR&P. Any HPL grade is vast overkill, since the owner said they'll go to 35k miles OCI, but their customer base doesn't have the comfort level to usually even go past 10k miles OCI. Actually, even Walmart Supertech is sufficient, & more than enough to get the job done well enough. Boogie assets = boogie oil selection.
Click to expand...
Much better - I dunno. My sequence is EC30 >> VRP >> and will just go to Mobil 1 euro 0W40 next … Guess my concern is switching from piston cleanliness (filter showed nothing after EC30) to better protection for the valve-train …
 
Son_of_shots said:
Much better decision is to run Mobil 1 ESP X2 with 1 quart of NEW Valvoline R&P(b.o. typical crankcase volume of 4 to g quarts). The M1's properties will hardly be affected, & you will get slow bottom end cleaning from the VR&P. Any HPL grade is vast overkill, since the owner said they'll go to 35k miles OCI, but their customer base doesn't have the comfort level to usually even go past 10k miles OCI. Actually, even Walmart Supertech is sufficient, & more than enough to get the job done well enough. Boogie assets = boogie oil selection.
Click to expand...
diluting R&P isn’t going to do much. if R&P doesn’t make something that fits in your engine, HPL EC30/40 is probably best bet
 
sycamore said:
I noticed something interesting while browsing the Advance Auto Parts website: Valvoline R&P 10W30. I've not previously seen this specific viscosity anywhere else, and when I search the likes of Amazon, Walmart, O'Reilly, and Autozone, no dice. It also isn't listed on Valvoline's website. Is this a mistake, or a precursor of a wider variety of weights to come?

1 quart:

5 quart:
Click to expand...
I found 10W-30 Valvoline R&P on their website ... have to dig a bit deeper to find it.

 

1719859714261.jpg
 
Four Rings said:
No disagreement here.

Respectfully, I ask again, do we know the HTHS of 5W-30 VR&P?

It is understood the ILSAC so-called “energy conserving” requirement makes an HTHS of over 3.3 vanishingly unlikely. Whereas vw504/7 require >3.5.

I, personally, have decided to use 5W-30 VR&P in my 271,xxx-mile 2008 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.2L, knowing it is not a vw502 oil; Six quarts of VR&P supplemented with 1qt of HPL EC SAE 40.
Click to expand...
3.24
 
Four Rings said:
No disagreement here.

Respectfully, I ask again, do we know the HTHS of 5W-30 VR&P?

It is understood the ILSAC so-called “energy conserving” requirement makes an HTHS of over 3.3 vanishingly unlikely. Whereas vw504/7 require >3.5.

I, personally, have decided to use 5W-30 VR&P in my 271,xxx-mile 2008 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 3.2L, knowing it is not a vw502 oil; Six quarts of VR&P supplemented with 1qt of HPL EC SAE 40.
Click to expand...

Screenshot_20240701_145110_Gmail.jpg
 
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