I would love to see an American made vechile made in the 1970 read out 450,000 miles. How many people here have ever personaly sat in a car with 450,000 miles on the odometer? I have never seen an AMerican made piece of iron from that era that did not roll over at 99,000 miles. I do not think I have ever seen any cars with much more then 300,000 on them. The only brands I have ever seen with 300,000 miles on them and still being driven have been Honda's and Toyota's. To their advantage their odometers went that high unlike most American cars built in the 1980's.
Valvoline or Castrol
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John Browning, I don't have any UOA to show, as I am old and retired with a limited income. Can't justify the cost, with what I have to live on. And for synthetics, I'm not against them, I just don't drive enough to justify them either, about 5,000 miles per year per car. The truck I only use sometimes, so it don't get many miles anymore. Fact is for my 2 stroke oil I use only Amsoil 100 to 1. My cars and truck had always got along fine on the Valvoline, inother words, didn't need repair, and and didn't use much. That tells me they are doing OK, even more than a UOA. I think Bob said something along that line one time to. What is said on paper is one thing, but some times in the real world where we live, things go a little different,as we use all of them different than the other guy, so we get different results.
Back to your question---
Switch to any brand of oil you like and you won't have any problems due to the switch.
Paraffinic crude oil is the best type of petroleum oil to make lubricants out of. It is all petroleum.
Ken
[ September 26, 2003, 03:21 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
Switch to any brand of oil you like and you won't have any problems due to the switch.
Paraffinic crude oil is the best type of petroleum oil to make lubricants out of. It is all petroleum.
Ken
[ September 26, 2003, 03:21 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
I guess, after reading these posts, you are telling me, that the new oils aren't all that good. If you can get over 400,000 out of oils that you guys say were not good oil. Then why would anyone care about the new oils or synthetic oils. Who wants to keep a car over 400,000 miles, everything else would be completely worn out on it. And I had thought from what you had said they were better oils now, but I would think not, from what you are saying.
[ September 26, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: pruntyc ]
[ September 26, 2003, 12:37 PM: Message edited by: pruntyc ]
pruntyc,
Sounds to me like you are a man who already has his mind made up. You seem to already know what you believe, so act on that. But for what it is worth, the new oils have to pass tests far more stringent than did past oils and are required to protect engine designs that were only in the minds of the most advanced thinkers "400,000 miles ago." I'll take the new oils, especially the synthetics any day, but I will also guarantee you, that, as with most any proposition, you can find an example to "prove" what you want to "prove." For example, I can find you an engine that went 400,000 on dino and one that barely made it to 100,000 on synthetic; but I will also bet you that I could take two fleets of engines, one on dino, and one on synthetic, and for less work and less expense (fewer oil and filter changes) I could deliver you more engines with XXX,XXX miles using the syn, then using the dino (and at any given miles the syn engines, if torn down, would be cleaner and have less wear). BOTTOM LINE: Do what you want to do.
[ September 26, 2003, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
Sounds to me like you are a man who already has his mind made up. You seem to already know what you believe, so act on that. But for what it is worth, the new oils have to pass tests far more stringent than did past oils and are required to protect engine designs that were only in the minds of the most advanced thinkers "400,000 miles ago." I'll take the new oils, especially the synthetics any day, but I will also guarantee you, that, as with most any proposition, you can find an example to "prove" what you want to "prove." For example, I can find you an engine that went 400,000 on dino and one that barely made it to 100,000 on synthetic; but I will also bet you that I could take two fleets of engines, one on dino, and one on synthetic, and for less work and less expense (fewer oil and filter changes) I could deliver you more engines with XXX,XXX miles using the syn, then using the dino (and at any given miles the syn engines, if torn down, would be cleaner and have less wear). BOTTOM LINE: Do what you want to do.
[ September 26, 2003, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
A million-mile odometer in a '70s US-made car? I have to call you on that one, Patman. Mother-in-Law's 1989 Ford had 100,000 mile odometer! That car, ftr, made it to 140k, completely falling apart and no oil due to the rusted oil pan was porous. Engine ran ok though.
Patman
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As I mentioned above, I did not actually see the odometer, I was going on the word of the lady who owned it, and she had quoted to me that it had over 450,000 miles on it. I remember this because I asked her if she meant kilometers, and she said no because it was originally a US car so her odometer was in miles.quote:
Originally posted by TSoA:
A million-mile odometer in a '70s US-made car? I have to call you on that one, Patman. Mother-in-Law's 1989 Ford had 100,000 mile odometer! That car, ftr, made it to 140k, completely falling apart and no oil due to the rusted oil pan was porous. Engine ran ok though.I added 3q at a time make-up oil, she said "I use super gas and GOOD oil", lol.
Like I said, perhaps stuff engineered in the 70s was not durable, but stuff designed in the 60s but still being made in the 70s, was very durable still. I do remember Chrysler products being very well regarded for longevity back then, something they aren't really known for anymore.
Most of them I remember,in the 60's and I was there,lasted OK, but you needed to work on them, like rings and a valve job at about 60 to 70 thousand miles. The rest of the stuff lasted pretty good, but the oils we had and the motors, left a lot to be desired. That is what got me to useing Valvoline in the first place. I knew the man that owned a taxi cab company, in the 50's and he told me, it was the only oil, and he had tryed them all, that the cars would hold up with in the heavy use that he gave them. The nice thing about them was the metal in the cars then was a lot thicker and you couldn't just lean on them and make a dent.
Well I never mentioned synthetics at all. I have no problem with dino oil. I do have a problem about makeing a performance call based on perceptions of oil protection. That would be like trying to make a durability call based on how cute the car was.
I understand the income issue as i have limited funds as well. The rash of down sizeing and bankruptcys has not been kind to anyone in the last 12-20 months.
I understand the income issue as i have limited funds as well. The rash of down sizeing and bankruptcys has not been kind to anyone in the last 12-20 months.
You don't sound like a novice. The basic, truth, unless you have some malfunction, yes the 3000 mile deal is a good number to shoot for.
Truth be told, you don't need any special oil other than what you find at the parts house, as long as there is no problem with the engine, you can use any good oil, period. You may have to flush more often with one oil than another, but for the average guy/gal if the object of your quest is to just be happy and don't worry, just change the oil on a regular basis.
For the same price? I donno.quote:
Originally posted by sbc350gearhead:
---***-- I don't think that valvoline is going to hurt your engine, but I think that there are superior oils to be used for the same price.
In the same price range of a buck or two per oil change, yes. Then here, go to Chevron, etc.
Superior?, disagree slightly and say better quality.
Yes, there are much better oils out there and many can be found right next to the Valvoline, however if his object is just to feel safe with a 3K oil change, I'd say relax, chill, don't worry you're okay.
I would say some of the best built auto's were in the latter '70's, least the Jap. Cars, and many American ones. I fancy the 77-79. In fact I had I think at least two cars from this time frame that gave me over 200K
Okay what about a '66 Dodge Dart and a '79 Datsun pick-up, both got over 200K easy, the truck several hundred K ++ several hundred K.
Dodge Dart, probably had the slant 6, it was hard to wear one of them out, they weren't the average car. And for the Datson, I probably could have almost hauled it in the bed of mine and not noticed any added weight. I have the camper special, and 350 engine, heavy everything on it. And as I said I change my oil every 5,000 miles, its worked for me for a long long time, I'll be 70 in Dec. so I've been around for a while and owned a few cars and was pretty hard on most of them. And for the most part have had very very little motor problems. Oh I have had to put in a front seal on one. And a couple of Carbs, but come to think of it, that is all I ever did have to do on any of them, so I dont' have a problem with 5,000 mile changes, works for me.
Patman:
Maybe the person you spoke to was mistaken and had the same 140,000 miles: The odo rolled over and later read 40,000, she mistook it for 400,000.
[ September 27, 2003, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
I hear you, the LTD was worth mentioning as I have personal experience with it. It ran mostly on one or two quarts at a time.
Maybe the person you spoke to was mistaken and had the same 140,000 miles: The odo rolled over and later read 40,000, she mistook it for 400,000.
[ September 27, 2003, 05:48 PM: Message edited by: TSoA ]
Patman
Staff member
I don't think she was mistaken, because when I asked her how on earth she could've piled on the miles so much, she had told me she was a real estate agent out west and drove around a lot. I don't see what is so hard to believe, it is a full size Chrysler we're talking about here, probably with a 360 engine in it, maybe even bigger.
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