Valvoline Modern Engine 0w-20 - 4.8K miles; 2016 Honda Accord K24W 23k miles

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Michigan
This is the first UOA from my 2016 Honda Accord with the K24W "Earth Dreams" engine. While there were a number of longer highway drives, it had quite a few short trips (~10 minutes) over the course of this OCI. MM was at 40% and the OCI was 4,779 miles and 497 days. I was worried it was a bit of a waste to change the oil so early, but now I'm thinking it may have been a good call. If I recall correctly the engine had been warmed up for a while when I performed this change and took the oil sample. I used an OE Honda A02 filter and as the title states Valvoline Modern Engine 0w-20. I refilled with Valvoline Extended Protection 0w-20 and another A02.

Accord UOA VME.jpg
 
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I have heard of several people having fuel dilution problems with that Honda engine, but it isn't as well known as the 1.5 engines of theirs due to the class actions, etc. It is a fairly high compression engine, gdi and in that same time period as the other Honda FD issues. If I planned on keeping the vehicle for a long period of time, I personally would change to 91/93 octane fuel (I've heard some success with trying this) and backing OCIs to 3000 miles. Others would likely disagree, but its JM2C.
 
This is the first UOA from my 2016 Honda Accord with the K24W "Earth Dreams" engine. While there were a number of longer highway drives, it had quite a few short trips (~10 minutes) over the course of this OCI. MM was at 40% and the OCI was 4,779 miles and 497 days. I was worried it was a bit of a waste to change the oil so early, but now I'm thinking it may have been a good call. If I recall correctly the engine had been warmed up for a while when I performed this change and took the oil sample. I used an OE Honda A02 filter and as the title states Valvoline Modern Engine 0w-20. I refilled with Valvoline Extended Protection 0w-20 and another A02.

View attachment 78606
How did your oil look when you dumped? Real dark with obvious fuel or what? Great you did that UOA which I am going to do very soon once I hit 4000mi on my last change out.
 
Hmmmm. Would have been interesting to see it @ 15% on the MM. I’d guess probably boarder line toast.
 
I have heard of several people having fuel dilution problems with that Honda engine, but it isn't as well known as the 1.5 engines of theirs due to the class actions, etc. It is a fairly high compression engine, gdi and in that same time period as the other Honda FD issues. If I planned on keeping the vehicle for a long period of time, I personally would change to 91/93 octane fuel (I've heard some success with trying this) and backing OCIs to 3000 miles. Others would likely disagree, but its JM2C.
Thanks for the heads up on this. I am familiar with the 1.5T dilution problems, but had no idea the 2.4L NA engine had some issues too. I'll consider changing to 91/93 for sure. I always ran Premium in my previous vehicle (and still do in my 3-series) and this gets a lot better MPG! What is the theory behind this: cleaner burn = less wasted fuel that makes its way to the sump?

I am going to run another similar OCI and do another UOA. I have some longer trips coming up so this should be a little different (better?) usage as well.

How did your oil look when you dumped? Real dark with obvious fuel or what? Great you did that UOA which I am going to do very soon once I hit 4000mi on my last change out.
I am glad I took a UOA too! I didn't see anything that jumped out as abnormal - No check engine lights and I regularly checked the oil level and didn't notice any significant increase or decrease but I checked less frequently once I felt comfortable that everything seemed normal. From what I recall it looked like usual dirty oil. Now that I know there could be an oil dilution problem I'll keep a closer eye on color, smell, level, etc.

Hmmmm. Would have been interesting to see it @ 15% on the MM. I’d guess probably boarder line toast.
I'm hoping I can eventually get to the point where I feel comfortable running it down to 15%! :LOL:
 
Thanks for the heads up on this. I am familiar with the 1.5T dilution problems, but had no idea the 2.4L NA engine had some issues too. I'll consider changing to 91/93 for sure. I always ran Premium in my previous vehicle (and still do in my 3-series) and this gets a lot better MPG! What is the theory behind this: cleaner burn = less wasted fuel that makes its way to the sump?

I am going to run another similar OCI and do another UOA. I have some longer trips coming up so this should be a little different (better?) usage as well.


I am glad I took a UOA too! I didn't see anything that jumped out as abnormal - No check engine lights and I regularly checked the oil level and didn't notice any significant increase or decrease but I checked less frequently once I felt comfortable that everything seemed normal. From what I recall it looked like usual dirty oil. Now that I know there could be an oil dilution problem I'll keep a closer eye on color, smell, level, etc.


I'm hoping I can eventually get to the point where I feel comfortable running it down to 15%! :LOL:
Good luck. I am still attempting to learn how to handle our 1.5Di turbo. Will do the UOAs as soon as we put some more miles. As I have learned from some folks here, its the way to go. Eliminates the guess work I was trying to go with. Lots of good folks and advice on BITOG I been picking up tips from.
 
Thanks for the heads up on this. I am familiar with the 1.5T dilution problems, but had no idea the 2.4L NA engine had some issues too. I'll consider changing to 91/93 for sure. I always ran Premium in my previous vehicle (and still do in my 3-series) and this gets a lot better MPG! What is the theory behind this: cleaner burn = less wasted fuel that makes its way to the sump?
You hit it on the head; less wasted fuel to squeak by.
 
Ha! How about -2,000 miles like my neighbor constantly does with his 2014 Civic? 🤦🏻‍♂️
Isn’t that engine similar to the 2007 Honda Civic?

It’s extremely easy on oil, I have run Mobil 1 EP for MM x2 to 0%, two times

And before that it was Dino 5w20 oil from Walmart and other oil change places, the valve cover job at 180k showed zero varnish in the head and no build up of any sort, it looked all silverish color, whatever your neighbor is doing is causing no harm to his engine unless he is not monitoring his oil levels.

And a friend of mine had that 2014 model, he was a delivery driver using that car for delivery, he put 100-125k a year on, MM to 0% on whatever Walmart or Jiffy lube put in his car, i changed his spark plugs at 180kish and got curious and opened up the valve cover to see (it wasn’t leaking) same result as the 2007 Honda Civic, “looked”brand new inside…his car was idled for 2 hours a day easily…I wouldn’t worry about your neighbor’s 2014 Honda Civic engine at all.
 
Thanks for the heads up on this. I am familiar with the 1.5T dilution problems, but had no idea the 2.4L NA engine had some issues too. I'll consider changing to 91/93 for sure. I always ran Premium in my previous vehicle (and still do in my 3-series) and this gets a lot better MPG! What is the theory behind this: cleaner burn = less wasted fuel that makes its way to the sump?
Everything else being the same higher octane fuel does not burn cleaner, more completely or faster than lower octane fuel. And they both have the same energy content.
 
The Valvoline Advanced synthetic oils are great and are my #2 choice available at WM . My #1 choice is M1 EP synthetic oils (also found at WM).
 
Letting the car idle when cold will make a much bigger difference in fuel dilution than any choice of gas.
The coldest we get around here is maybe a few 40deg to 50deg a few times a year.
Get what you say about long idle. I was letting the temp gauge rise to normal before leaving garage to drive it.
So what is recommended? How do you properly warm it up? I do start it and start out all drives with ECON in the off position and only turn it on after a stop before a highway drive. Its sad cause the car drives and runs amazing and so quiet you can not hear the engine. Gets 42-44 mpg on highway drives. YET the oil dilution will not go away. It got better over time but still happens so I have to keep close eye on it.
We are sticking to the manufacturer's recommended 0w20 oil as per Honda. Honda has really let us down bad with this after over 25 years of buying and driving them across the USA. Got rid of a 2002 in late 2019 that seemed to be bullet and bomb proof! Over 180,000 miles when traded in on the 2018 Accord Ex 1.5 engine. Also still driving a 2009 Accord Ex with over 149,000 and zero issues other than an occasional battery change.

Will not purchase another Honda after they will not even acknowledge they screwed up these turbo engines.
 
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Wouldn't it be cheaper to change the oil sooner that switching to premium? Around here there is about a .70 -.80 cent spread between 87 and 91. Wouldn't take long to pay for the extra OC.
That's a good point. Seems like it would be better "peace of mind" to just change earlier too.
The Valvoline Advanced synthetic oils are great and are my #2 choice available at WM . My #1 choice is M1 EP synthetic oils (also found at WM).
Good to hear! I haven't settled on any specific brand - I actually went to Meijer planning to get M1 EP 0w-20 to try something different. They were sold out. I went to Wal-Mart who was sold out of the M1 EP too, so that's how I ended up with the Valvoline EP. I like all the Moly present in the VOA, so I may end up sticking with it if this UOA turns out ok.
Letting the car idle when cold will make a much bigger difference in fuel dilution than any choice of gas.
I'd love to know more about this! My understanding is that unless it is exceptionally cold, it is best to just start driving as soon as possible. I take caution and drive moderately / avoid high RPMs until fully up to temp. Wouldn't idling it to full temp lead to the vehicle taking longer to warm up and therefore more fuel dilution? Are you suggesting I avoid cold idle?
 
That's a good point. Seems like it would be better "peace of mind" to just change earlier too.

Good to hear! I haven't settled on any specific brand - I actually went to Meijer planning to get M1 EP 0w-20 to try something different. They were sold out. I went to Wal-Mart who was sold out of the M1 EP too, so that's how I ended up with the Valvoline EP. I like all the Moly present in the VOA, so I may end up sticking with it if this UOA turns out ok.

I'd love to know more about this! My understanding is that unless it is exceptionally cold, it is best to just start driving as soon as possible. I take caution and drive moderately / avoid high RPMs until fully up to temp. Wouldn't idling it to full temp lead to the vehicle taking longer to warm up and therefore more fuel dilution? Are you suggesting I avoid cold idle?
I was saying idling when cold is bad. You are doing it right. :)
 
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