Valvetrain Pics 01 Civic ~168k mi.

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Sayjac

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Ahh, that's better thanks. Looks like in the far right or pic #2 a bit heavier varnish in one spot, not terrible though. Couldn't say the cause, is that right under the filler hole. Perhaps a factor? Considering miles though looks ok to me. Thanks for the Pb pics.
 
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With the various pics posted recently, looks like varnish can attach to different degrees on specific parts. I suspect different Aluminum parts have different metal treatment. In the above case the valve train parts versus the head and cover casing, day and night difference. The one rocker just had a variation that allowed varnish it collect and it built up over time just like the valve cover.
 
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Yes, that cyl is right under the fill hole. Glad to hear it doesn't look too concerning. FYI, cyl cover was removed to replace spark plug tube seals, #3 was leaking. Great little car.
 

Sayjac

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Originally Posted By: Knuckles
...FYI, cyl cover was removed to replace spark plug tube seals, #3 was leaking...
Since you mention it how did/do you go about getting the the seals out of the VC. If I ever feel very ambitious was thinking about getting a seal kit and replacing all of them. When I took the VC off last time though, those suckers are in very tight.
 
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Small flat screwdriver.....carefully pry underneath the seal. Yes, I scored the VC a bit doing this on the seal to VC face, but to no ill effect right now. Read that some ppl used dentist-like pick to pry under. I would suggest focusing your ambition on something else...if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
 

Sayjac

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Originally Posted By: Knuckles
...I would suggest focusing your ambition on something else...if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
LOL Great point. I'm glad I didn't order the seal kit when ordering camshaft pos. sensor, that was enough of a pain to reach and replace. Only realized the seal removal effort required after trying to move one or two of them. If it ain't broke don't fix it does apply to that job.
 
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Originally Posted By: sayjac
Almost exclusively dino, early years on lots of 5w20 MC Synblend. Last several years, whatever major's 5w20 dino is sale priced. One, maybe two max synthetic oci's. Average oci 5500-6k, in 5-6 months. Took the VC off to replace a camshaft position/TDC sensor with is under the timing belt cover, but that's another story for another thread.
Beautiful!!
 
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Since synthetics don't have to truly be synthetic Is it really worth while to pay double or more for synthetic?
 

JHZR2

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Originally Posted By: ram_man
Since synthetics don't have to truly be synthetic Is it really worth while to pay double or more for synthetic?
What's that supposed to mean? You realize that the PAO precursors are also derived from crude, right?
 

Sayjac

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Originally Posted By: Nickdfresh
And it's not double, there are very good prices on synthetics if you bother to look, or even use the dreaded rebates...
Good point. And I've been using synthetic almost exclusively in my 07 Accord following the MM schedule because there are some very good prices on synthetics like the close out PP/PU I have, or even some with rebates and on sale. Makes using synthetic very cost effective nowadays, especially with longer ocis. But this Civic has run nicely on dino and so as noted no reason to change at this point. Other parts of the car are now getting more long in the tooth/worn than the engine.
 
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This is also a testament to how easy Honda engines are easy on oil. I have dealt with numerous engines that developed significant sludge when using dino and changing it every 5000 miles. The Saturn S-series engine is the first thing that comes to my mind.
 
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
And here's what a Honda Civic engine looks like without the varnish stains:
Lol. It probably had 500 miles on the OD at the time.. jk What oil was used?
 
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Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Lol. It probably had 500 miles on the OD at the time.. jk What oil was used?
That engine belongs to BITOG member sxg6. I don't remember the exact interval, but I'm pretty sure the oil he was using at the time was Mobil 1.
 
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