Valve Adjustment
- Thread starter Carbonics
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That would be way easier than the way I described yes.
There is a bushing on the shifter lever, change that first. I bet that will fix it. The tranny doesn't "loosen" up but the bushing the couples the shifter lever with the link under the car does.
Is Honda still, in 2007, making engines that require periodic valve adjustments? How about timing belts and interference engines? I would never, knowingly, buy a car without hydraulic valves, a timing CHAIN, and a non-interference design.
1999nick,
valve adjustment is not bad, since the alternative is to take the cam out and use a new shim (if it wears). If you do not adjust it, it will just be louder and usually won't get way out of spec.
On the Interference design, it is more compact and usually have better efficiency so the tradeoff is not bad. I would never change Timing belt with such a long interval that interference vs non will be an issue to begin with.
valve adjustment is not bad, since the alternative is to take the cam out and use a new shim (if it wears). If you do not adjust it, it will just be louder and usually won't get way out of spec.
On the Interference design, it is more compact and usually have better efficiency so the tradeoff is not bad. I would never change Timing belt with such a long interval that interference vs non will be an issue to begin with.
It should be noted for future readers that adjusting the valves with both valves closed at /TDC Compression/ like mechtech2 suggested is the CORRECT way and that all of my previous posts should be disregarded entirely. If I forget and make any further posts in this thread, disregard those too.
The alternative to valve adjustment is hydraulic valve lifters, which many cars have had for 50+ years. My Nissan Maxima has them, plus a timing chain. I do not know whether it is an interference engine or not.
ive been adjusting valve in one for or another for years and you dont need to have the piston at tdc to do it.
all that m atters is that the lobe is facing opposite of the valve so you know the valve is fully closed when you adjust the gap.
the pistons location is of no relevance.
all that m atters is that the lobe is facing opposite of the valve so you know the valve is fully closed when you adjust the gap.
the pistons location is of no relevance.
On a 4 banger, with the plugs out, you can turn these engines over very, very easy. Just turn it over and watch the valves, intake will open and close, then the exhaust will, once you see the exhaust close, adjust both rockers. Simple as that.
haha, own an isuzu 3.2 SOHC for awhile, then you'll wish you COULD adjust your valves! ticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktickticktick
Hey, I remember that sound well. It was coming from a couple of Chevy V-8s I had back in the 1960s. Seems they always began this ticking around 3000 miles into an OCI. A nice fresh change of good old 10W40, and it was quiet again for another 3000 miles. This was probably the origin of the 3000 mile OCI.
I was at the Acura dealership today and they wanted $130 for a valve adjustment on my Integra, just to give you a high estimate ballpark figure, yours would probably be less seeing they have the cover off already, and Honda generally charges less.
Carbonics, this may be obvious, but worth repeating, you don't necessarily have to adjust them. First check them with a good feeler gauge, and then ONLY adjust them if you have to. And like others have said (and shown you with nice photos) Hondas are VERY easy to adjust if you need to.
Aren't the Civic valve lash specs given with the engine cold? I used to set my slant six valve lash with the engine warm and running- it wasn't difficult at all, either.
I wish there was the same for my '95 Civic too.
However, the Civic's valves have never needed adjusting... yet.
I wish there was the same for my '95 Civic too.
However, the Civic's valves have never needed adjusting... yet.
Yes, the engines need to be cold when you adjust the valves.
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