On an '14 Audi A6 TDI would it be ok to flush the engine with an oil that not 507(?) rated. I have a cabinet full of various diesel oil that I bought on sale or clearance and the oil that comes out of this car is like liquid carbon. Most are top brands but don't have the 507 spec, the car is out of warranty for a while now, and I only need to leave it in for a very short while. Thanks
Using Wrong Diesel Spec. Oil To Flush ok?
- Thread starter Quadrasteer
- Start date
It's perfectly fine for a flush if it doesn't have the certification. If it's for a recommended interval the certification typically requires higher oxidation resistance, better deposit control along with shear stability and hths viscosity. But lets say the certification has to meet those at x long interval then you can usually use a non certified oil that's the same or very similar viscosity for half the interval and you'd be fine anyway since most engines aren't viscosity sensitive like people think. Deposit control and such is hard at the long intervals the manufacturer wants to do. So if it doesn't have that certification at whatever long interval then you can use a lesser oil at half the interval and typically never have an issue since the certification requires that the oil performs at the extended drain. But go ahead and flush with that. i don't know what the manufacturer interval is but if its like 10k miles id do half with a non certified oil and wouldn't sweat it. i highly doubt your cams are gonna wear out and even if they were then id question how the rest of the vehicle was able to go that long as a whole. For the flush id do a couple to few hundred miles as running it for 20 minutes isn't gonna pull much out. A few hundred miles will give the oil time to do its thing thoroughly..
JHZR2
Staff member
Sure. Just dont load it heavily, drive it cross country, etc. consider doing a shorter OCI on the correct oil afterwards.
As long as it's diesel-rated, any oil should be good for a flush.
The reason the oil is pitch black immediately even after just being poured in is because of soot, which is a byproduct of diesel combustion. As long as the oil is black, it's doing its job holding the soot in suspension.
Since you're long past warranty, you could always reduce EGR duty cycle which results in less soot in the engine and thereby less of it in the oil.
The reason the oil is pitch black immediately even after just being poured in is because of soot, which is a byproduct of diesel combustion. As long as the oil is black, it's doing its job holding the soot in suspension.
Since you're long past warranty, you could always reduce EGR duty cycle which results in less soot in the engine and thereby less of it in the oil.
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Deleted member 89374
I would get Rotella T6 5W-40 from Walmart. Install a new filter and idle it for 30 minutes. Then do a few (10~20) miles of light driving. Drain it and call it a day. Then put 507 spec oil in it with a new filter and it should be nice and clean, at least for a while
.I'm assuming you used CJ-4 or CK-4 diesel oil, which is limited to 1% sulfated ash, VW's spec is essentially a more stringent ACEA C3, so the sulfated ash is limited to less than .8%, using regular HD diesel oil could theoretically reduce the life of the diesel particulate filter.
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Deleted member 89374
Not for a flush and a drive around the neighborhood.
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Deleted member 89374
Some engines can take an extra quart. My HEMI and the Theta II 2.4L in my Hyundai each can take an extra quart. Actually, Hyundai sent out a TSB years ago to put 6 quarts in these motors when the connecting rods started blowing through the block because of seized bearings due to fuel dilution... Anyway, I would only put 7 quarts in your motors. German engines are pretty precise. That Delo is fine for a flush and/or a quick ride around the neighborhood.
I know about Diesel from working with Cummins and Detroit Diesel engines.
Thanks, now I get to use up 2 of my many jugs from my stash......another home run, LOL.
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