Using Euro Oil in US Spec'd Trucks

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I have a first-gen Ford EcoBoost 3.5L V6 in a 2015 Expedition, the owner's manual states to follow the oil life monitor, but I run an OCI of 5,000 miles, as there are known issues with extending OCI's that have manifested with the timing chain - the chain becomes worn and stretched. As the chain is stretched the PCM detects the changes in camshaft position and sets code P0016 for crankshaft/camshaft correlation. Ford's issued TSB 14-0194 about this. Ecoboosts, also seem to have a reputation for higher than normal fuel dilution. I believe it's a byproduct of direct injection, added to the fact that the EcoBoost's turbos are cooled by both oil and water, so the oil is going to be exposed to quite a bit of heat. Plus I tow fairly often. The Ford spec oil, in my manual, for this application is a 5W-30 that meets WSS-M2C929-A which I think may be API SL/SM which can be met with the Motocraft synthetic blend. In the new second-gen Ford EcoBoost 3.5L V6 the spec changed to WSS-M2C946-A, I think this was an alignment to the API SN oil hitting the market. I have been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5w-30 since my first oil change which meets the Ford's WSS-M2C946-A spec. Here is my question - two weeks ago I drove back home from FL to NJ and went to do my 30k oil change, and I didn't have any of the PUP 5w-30 left, but I did have a case of Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0w-40 for my Fiat Abarth - so I just used that instead. Everything being subjective, it seems like the SUV runs a little bit smoother on the Euro oil, and it feels a tad more responsive - this could also be a Pavlov's Dogs effect . The Euro oil obviously meets or exceeds API SN but doesn't reference any US auto makers spec's - plus it's a different weight than spec'd, what are some opinions about make this the go forward oil that I use in my Expedition?
 
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Your SUV is running better because it's 0w-40 oil. I use, and prefer, Euro spec (ACEA) oil in my trucks and SUV's. Mobil1 HM 5w-30 (A5/B5) and Mobil1 HM 10w-30 (A3/B3). I tend to ignore API and ILSAC specs.
 

josephp732

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BMWTuroDZI - thank you for the links above. Very informative and helpful. The Ravenol FDS is really interesting, specifically mentioning the Ford chain wear test. I guess reading all this is a tad confusing but it brings me to another rabbit hole type of question... when my power train warranty is up, and considering some of the issues documented issues with the engine and wear, would it be beneficial to move to an Non-API oil with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additives like Royal Purple HPS?
 
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I run edge 0w40 year round in my 2016 F150 3.5 eco. I've never had fuel smell in my oil, but dilution but with two turbos and direct injection, a slightly higher viscosity (probably dilutes/shears anyway) shouldn't be an issue.
 
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For you with the 5w30 viscosity, I'd suggest Ravenol DXG 5w30. I recently came across Ravenol DXG 5w-30 for the two DI GM V6's in my family, (Wife's LFY and Dad's twin-turbo LF3,) and pulled the trigger on that from Blauparts in large part because those motors still call for the 5w30 viscosity and the oil looks awesome: a Group V PAO, low SAPS, NOACK of 6.0, 256­ºC flash point and -57ºC pour point, and a total base of 8.3. I don't intend to go over 7,500 miles on the oil anyways, in large part because I don't think the OLM will let me and while under warranty, I don't want to ignore that. But even more important, because of the DI and the way it negatively affects the oil, long OCI's for DI and in particular, TDI's is foolish. Ravenol DXG 5w30
 
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I don't have a gas truck, but my 300ZX and Quest (VQ35DE) do fantastic on Euro 0W-40s. My current stash is about 13 jugs of Castrol and PP 0W-40s that I snagged on Walmart clearance sales. The cold startup (normal pump-up of the pressure driven chain guides) noise on the Quest quiets down much quicker on the 0W-40 than on the spec'd 5W-30.
 
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Any 5W30 meeting specs will ensure your engine is properly lubricated. Using a "higher" spec or higher viscosity it really does not mean a EB will last longer.
 
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Originally Posted by josephp732
would it be beneficial to move to an Non-API oil with a high level of zinc/phosphorus anti-wear additives like Royal Purple HPS?
I've put Royal Purple HPS in several vehicles and found it to be a very quiet, smooth oil. Made a big difference in a 92 Chevy 1500 I had for a while with a flat tappet camshaft. It also did quiet down a Crown Vic P71 I had for a bit - but it made less of a difference there since it's a more modern engine design with no flat tappet cams. Unfortunately it's no longer easy for me to purchase HPS at a discounted price due to some California restrictions. My 95 Chevy 1500 that I have now also with a flat tappet cam engine would probably be quieter on a high-ZDDP oil like Royal Purple HPS but the Delo that's in it now seems to be doing just fine, and the 0.5MPG fuel economy difference makes up for the fact that I can buy a gallon of Delo for the same price as 1.5quarts of Royal Purple HPS. My point is that a modern engine design doesn't really benefit as much from a high-ZDDP oil like older engine designs do. HPS is a great oil but probably a waste of money vs regular API SN or SN Plus certified oils in your application, and timely oil changes is going to make the biggest difference to the longevity of your timing chain.
 
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