Used GC not happy

Messages
6
Location
Mi
Just a little history. I maintaine my 97 Pathfinder very well. All fluids are changed reguraly including ps and brake. All are synthetic. I run a combo of Pennz 89/90 and Lucas80/90 in the front and rear differentail. I run the Dex cool in radiator which I change every year anyway. In the transmission I run Pennz Dexron 111/ and gota good deal on 2 qts of Quakerstate syn blend 4x4 ATF which I would normaly not use. I also added lube guard which I believe is a great product. I use Lucas fuel stabalizer which I have seen boost performance and fuel milage. In the fall I ran the GC 0w30 that I had found. Just cause I couldn't wait till winter. I had about 1,500 miles on it and it was black. I just dumped it and am now using Mobil 1 0w40 which I think would be good year round. Now I know some people would say, "That is the cleaning power", but I don't buy it. My engine was flushed before. And I have used Amsoil and Mobil 1 for the last 3 years and a lot of miles. I am also using the K&N oil filter, got a good buy at $9.00 at Advance Auto. They were $12.00 at Auto Zone. Here is the interesting part. Im sure this is not the freshest oil around. but I happend to be in Big Lots looking for just junk stuff to buy, and found a case of Havoline 5w40 synthetic. They only wanted $1.99 a qt. Also had Havoline gear oil 80/90 at $1.99 a qt. I know it was the old brand as it did not say Havoline/Texas etc.. it was the E somthing or another. My question is for the price would you be comfortable putting the 5w40 into your engine. Or just stick with the Mobil 1 0w40 all year round. Thanks Frank
 
Messages
848
Location
Ohio
Black oil is ok, it shows that it is doing it's job. It will not harm an engine. If you run a oil and it does not turn black, it is not cleaning the engine, and a good oil will do that.
 
Messages
47,643
Location
Duvall WA - Pacific NW USA
A couple things. Indeed oil color doesn't mean much, but how long before M1 or Amsoil darkened in your engine? Have you thought about a UOA? On the other lubes, why the blending? Have you done a UOA on these brews to tell you they work best? I'm just not sure these are the best that's all.
 
Messages
156
Location
North Carolina
Frank, As I have posted here many times. I have bought all of the Havoline Syn I could get my hands on in the Tampa area. I know it's the old Equilon stuff their dumping , but Discount and Advance still have the exact same oil on their shelves , that their selling for 3.89. I'm going to use it and go with 5k drains. If I were you I'd stock up, when it's gone it's gone.
 
Messages
5,069
Location
Saratoga, NY
frankoilman, if German Castrol has a lot of esters (as has been theorized by MolaKule and others) then the "cleaning effect" is very real and unavoidable. I know it can be hard to accept because a lot of oil gurus are also neatness freaks and we are taught that black oil = bad oil, but that really is the case. Even the cheapest, white-label Group I mineral oil which passes SL won't be bad after 1,500 miles. By dumping it so quickly, you did a very good, very safe but very expensive engine flush. [I dont know] --- Bror Jace
 

Al

Messages
19,163
Location
Elizabethtown, Pa
I would have run the GC longer (at least 3K) and taken an analysis. I would have filled it back up with GC. The analysis would then determine which way to go. The Hav Synthetic is a Group III oil-and not a "true" synthetic (to me anyway). DexCool: I do run DexCool-In an open system (like yours). there have been reports that DexCool may not last as long in an open system. So its good you are changing anually But why use it in an open system? I know I am doing-but I'm getting rid of it. [Smile] [Welcome!]
 
Messages
8,756
Location
RI
Use the Havoline for the summer. The price is too good to not to. Stick with the 0w's during the winter. I noticed that GC gets dark quick. I will wait until the 2nd run before complaining. I also don't like the cold start clatter I get with GC. I'll change the filter soon just to make sure the one used isn't defective. I wonder what is causing the dark oil especially since Redline/Motul/Amsoil/Mobil1 have been previously used with change intervals <5k miles. Cleaning power? not on a visually spotless engine! I too am one of the rare supporters of dexcool. I just don't believe that it, or any other coolant, should be used for more than a year. I have a Ford that has run dexcool for the last 6 years against Ford's recommendation. No dissolved water pump, no sludge, no crud, no leaks, no blown head gaskets..... and the cooling system is just spotless. I think that GM f*@ked up by calling it a 5 year coolant. I wouldn't blend anything into the front/rearends/xcase. Use Mobil1/Amsoil/Redline gear oil straight.
 

frankoilman

Thread starter
Messages
6
Location
Mi
Hey guys, thanks for all the replies. Just to let you know, The gear oil I use Pennz 80/90 and the Lucas is a Gear oil, not an additive.
 
Messages
3,593
Location
Outside smalltown, IL
quote:
Originally posted by frankoilman: I can tell you guys one thing. Last time I did my front pads, I bought the cheapest pads at auto zone. Black dust all over the rims, and squealing like crazy. I have tried 2 cans of brake spray, and nothing works. I will go with the high end ceramic pads after turning the roters without a doubt.
We used a set of the cheapie AutoZone pads on the front of my '87 Pathfinder. They did leave a lot of dust and didn't last too long. The good part is, they seem to be very easy on the rotors. We were able to just slap on a new set for free since the warranty is lifetime without doing anything to the rotors...
 
Messages
2,480
This is a great post because it proves what I've seen and said before...that M-1 is not really a good cleaner...compared with Castrol's (addative package)?? What you saw was either...1. cleaning 2. oil degradation. I doubt #2 because it's an A3 oil and will stand many more miles than 1500. The Havoline 5-40 is an excellent product. I wouldn't be surprised if you find it even better than the M-1 (I did)...more comparable to the Delvac 1 (without the diesel addatives/rating). Go for it...
 
Messages
246
Location
Atlanta, GA
quote:
I've only recently heard of the ceramic pads. What do they bring to the table that's worth the money spent on them?
Also they are much much quieter than semi-metalic pads. Actually raybestos markets theirs under the "quiet stop" or QS name.
 

frankoilman

Thread starter
Messages
6
Location
Mi
That is a very good question. I am not dissing sp? the GC. But I do have some questions on it. It just seems that everyone was jumping on the GC band wagon without knowing too much about this oil. To be honest with ya all. My favorite oil is the Mobil Delvac 1 5w40. But hard to find. Have to go to multiple truck stops to locate it. and it is expensive. Not quite sure what I will put in the spring. I still may go with the Mobil 1 15w50 for summer. I will change out my K&N filterin about another 2,000 miles and top off with the Mobil 1 0w40 until that time. Reference the Dex Cool. I remeber reading the concerns about it. However, like the old green antifreeze, I have never had any wear out from this coolent. Granted I change it every year. I do believe it is a better coolent. I go with a 75/25 ratio and am down to a -65 for winter. I can without a doubt recomend the Lucas fuel stabalizer. With the upper cylynder lube and fuel additives, my truck runs like new at 125,000. And as soon as I fix my exhaust and front breaks, I will be very happy still with my truck going well over 200,000. I can tell you guys one thing. Last time I did my front pads, I bought the cheapest pads at auto zone. Black dust all over the rims, and squealing like crazy. I have tried 2 cans of brake spray, and nothing works. I will go with the high end ceramic pads after turning the roters without a doubt.
 
Messages
11,284
Location
Spring HIll
quote:
Originally posted by frankoilman: I will go with the high end ceramic pads after turning the roters without a doubt.
[Off Topic!] I've only recently heard of the ceramic pads. What do they bring to the table that's worth the money spent on them?
 
Messages
8,756
Location
RI
I don't know why "mobil1 is not a good cleaner" is being mentioned over and over. Slow, maybe, but it is good as far as I am concerned. Isn't API SL oil suppose to prevent sludge and keep the engine clean? Mobil1 is SL! It should work as well as any other SL/GF3 oil.
 
Messages
39,806
Location
Pottstown, PA
quote:
I've only recently heard of the ceramic pads. What do they bring to the table that's worth the money spent on them?
When I add up the cost of the wheel cleaner over the year that I keep pads in my wife's Jeep ...they are a bargain @ $45-$65 a set.
quote:
So, what do ceramic pads to the rotors?
Some have alleged that they put more fatigue on the rotors. This is not an issue for me since I never have to have rotors cut in vehicles that I drive. I change the pads far too often. I don't subscribe to the "pristine surface" requirement for every pad change. This is a quick route to new rotors ...which are getting cheaper all the time ..but are unnecessary IMO.
 
Messages
33,974
Location
Southern NJ
Dr.T, Amsoil would then also not be a good cleaner based on your statement bc he did use Amsoil as well. GC if heavily ester based could be a very good cleaner but I don't think thats the case. For the oil to be dark after only 1,500 miles suggests it's something else.
 
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