B because powertrain is not the only things that wear out, and a lot of things wear out by years and parts are hard to get on older cars.
used car choice ... older low mileage vs newer high mileage
- Thread starter GR_CoB
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If a person thinks logically, the one without the dangerous battery is the ONLY choice. Not only is a battery an expensive thing to deal with but all the electronics involved with it as well. Now if your a person just like Ivan of Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics then I suppose the hybrid may work for you. But if you have to pay dealer rates to have it fixed then run away fast.
The low mile simpler car is the best option, if you can afford the cost of hybrid vehicle mechanic/ electric work, then just buy a new car.
The best deals to look for are Mechanic specials. Some deals are still to be found out there.
No I didn't read all these posts.
The low mile simpler car is the best option, if you can afford the cost of hybrid vehicle mechanic/ electric work, then just buy a new car.
The best deals to look for are Mechanic specials. Some deals are still to be found out there.
No I didn't read all these posts.
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wemay
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The wagon.
Cars don't like being unused.
The Accord probably has nearly everything dry rotted in the suspension or rusted if it's location is not a California or similar place.
I have an Accord with 90k, but the rust it was exposed to has done some work on it. Also, the ethanol in modern fuels is very damaging to 90s Japanese fuel pumps because the pumps were not rust proof nor were the metal tanks.
With all that said, if you can find OEM level suspension parts and confirm rust is nonexist or superficial, the Accord can be restored. Hondas are a bit daintier than Toyotas, so do not procrastinate on the rubber replacements like belts or motor mounts.
With a car that's been heavily used, the suspension is pretty much a necessary full reinstall to pass most safety inspections. However, it's less likely to have "non-use gremlins" and the wear items are fairly predictable IF you "know the car". If it's being sold now, the owner is likely experiencing the cascade of "planned death".
Just this past year, my mother's Toyota Matrix might has well have had a full gut internal rehab. New spark plug coils, new fuel pump, new fuel injectors, new brake hose, new single caliper, two new rotors, new valve cover gasket, new hoses(because of untimely valve cover gasket repair), new PCV valve. Struts were replaced about 7-8 years ago. Left lower control arm died from the rough roads. Toyota axles are tough things though. The boot is still not ripped after 230k.
The Accord probably has nearly everything dry rotted in the suspension or rusted if it's location is not a California or similar place.
I have an Accord with 90k, but the rust it was exposed to has done some work on it. Also, the ethanol in modern fuels is very damaging to 90s Japanese fuel pumps because the pumps were not rust proof nor were the metal tanks.
With all that said, if you can find OEM level suspension parts and confirm rust is nonexist or superficial, the Accord can be restored. Hondas are a bit daintier than Toyotas, so do not procrastinate on the rubber replacements like belts or motor mounts.
With a car that's been heavily used, the suspension is pretty much a necessary full reinstall to pass most safety inspections. However, it's less likely to have "non-use gremlins" and the wear items are fairly predictable IF you "know the car". If it's being sold now, the owner is likely experiencing the cascade of "planned death".
Just this past year, my mother's Toyota Matrix might has well have had a full gut internal rehab. New spark plug coils, new fuel pump, new fuel injectors, new brake hose, new single caliper, two new rotors, new valve cover gasket, new hoses(because of untimely valve cover gasket repair), new PCV valve. Struts were replaced about 7-8 years ago. Left lower control arm died from the rough roads. Toyota axles are tough things though. The boot is still not ripped after 230k.
I'll be honest, if it died on the test drive - I wouldn't have gotten it. But since money and title exchange already took place - I'm now committed. This Prius will ride again. And Honda may still join my stable later on, if it doesn't sell in next couple weeks.
On the Accord there is a quarter-coin size rust spot above one rear wheel well. So I asked the seller to grab some pics underneath. The floors and subframe got little to no rust. And the little is just surface stuff, can take it off with a metal brush or wire wheel at most.
I wish Honda axles were even half as tough as Toyota ones. As far as sitting - Accord mostly sat earlier in life. For the past five years it's been on daily duty. Still, 39k miles in 5 years isn't much, but it is better than first 30k miles in first 25 years.
Get yourself some "eBay Techstream" to go with your old 32 bit Windows 7 laptop, and/or "Doctor Prius" for your Android with an ELM327 OBD dongle.
You can see which cells in the battery pack are bad, and consider "whack a mole" replacements. The "rebuilt" battery packs just find "identical" used cells then put them together, IMO, a more expensive version of the same ticking time bomb.
You can see which cells in the battery pack are bad, and consider "whack a mole" replacements. The "rebuilt" battery packs just find "identical" used cells then put them together, IMO, a more expensive version of the same ticking time bomb.
This is my 2006 with 272k miles. I don't talk about it much. Got it in January with a bad catalytic converter. Turns out selling an OE cat more than pays for an aftermarket replacement.
Anywho, nothing was up with the battery until recently. I'd depart for work in the morning and the car would go from "80%" to "one bar" in 1/2 mile. The car by design idles to warm up unless you really romp on it, making up for the difference with electrical power. Mine would stumble as I pressed the accellerator, as if there wasn't the electricity...
Anywho, nothing was up with the battery until recently. I'd depart for work in the morning and the car would go from "80%" to "one bar" in 1/2 mile. The car by design idles to warm up unless you really romp on it, making up for the difference with electrical power. Mine would stumble as I pressed the accellerator, as if there wasn't the electricity...
Normally - yes. But this is a proven and unkillable Toyota 1NZ engine. Connected to a proper planetary gear CVT, where there is quite literally nothing to break (looking at you Nissan & Mitsubishi). And I found a ton of these at even much higher mileage, 400k+ isn't uncommon. Plus before it died - it was getting 50MPG and engine/transmission worked great. For $1500 - it's cheaper than every single GEO Metro in my area, which is the only other car that's this efficient.
It's definitely not for everyone, but it sure does "tickle my pickle". I like wrenching on small stuff like this, while being able to daily it.
And apparently Ed Bolian also likes $1500 cars, I'll admit - his is cooler. But in his own words: "Mechanically totalled just for the fluids it needs"
Ed Bolian has never been afraid of buying cars that need attention. But I'm pretty sure the only reason he bought that $1500 SL, is he is getting ready for the next season of Car Trek. I'm so excited.
Good luck on replacing the battery. I hope that works out for you. I've watched a video or two on replacing a hybrid battery, and it does look pretty doable, at least if you are a detail oriented type person.
Totally with you, and while I don’t flip cars, I enjoy keeping old cars on the road. You would probably make a little more money per car if you doubled your budget and went for Post 05 Camrys, accords, tsxs and so on.
For 1 year the one you prefer. I would not put much thought into it
Once I fix everything that's wrong/broken - I get bored. And then repeat the cycle, while someone else gives me enough profit to let them enjoy the fruits of my labor.
just bought daughter her first car -2007 honda accord lx with only 55k 1 elderly owner that i know well. 5000$. runs and drive s like new
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