Used 0w20 instead of 5w40

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Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Your VW calls for an HTHS 3.5 minimum oil unless I'm seriously mistaken.
Any 0W-20 is a quality oil from any deposit control point of view, but it does not meet anything close to the minimum HTHS viscosity VW's recommended oils have. This mix will also likely have higher NOACK volatility than would VW cert oil.
You have reduced both the KV and the HTHS viscosities of the oil in your VW's sump.
Personally, I'd run this mix for another 3K miles. It is getting colder now so some loss in viscosity and increase in volatility should be okay.
I would avoid running the car really hard, and 70-75mph jaunts up a four lane limited access divided highway doesn't count as hard.
Your call, but I personally can't see any harm running this unintended mix out to your planned OCI.
How long did it take the VW to use this 1-1.5 liters of oil?
It may be that you can play amateur blender again before the end of this OCI and can use something much thicker for your next add, sort of evening things out.
Engines will typically do just fine on a wide range of KV grades, contrary to what some here believe.
We even had a now long-banned member who posted a series of UOAs from VAG turbo engines using API/ILSAC syns that didn't even pretend to meet VAG certs and these oils looked just fine in their UOAs, not beat up at all.

Er, thanks, I think I get the upshot. What about 30-minute jaunts at closer to 90 mph? Still not really pushing the engine, except maybe the odd acceleration burst (rev & pedal travel limiters notwithstanding). I seem to get 2-3K miles before I need to top up, which is about when it's due for a change anyways.
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The best thing to do is jack up the radiator cap and slide a new car in underneath it with the correct engine oil.
Oh my god I laughed way too hard at that

Not getting the reference and/or picture at all...inside joke?
 
My neighbor's been using conventional 5w30 in his Mercedes CLA Turbo since new (2013 or 14). He swears by it.
 
Originally Posted By: AVG
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
The best thing to do is jack up the radiator cap and slide a new car in underneath it with the correct engine oil.
Oh my god I laughed way too hard at that

Not getting the reference and/or picture at all...inside joke?
He's joking, saying the easiest thing is to just buy a new car
 
Maybe you should go stand in the corner for 15 minutes?

I would be surprised if your engine knows the difference.
As others have said, if it bugs you, just do another spill and fill.
 
Too much focus on the cold start viscosity. Within 10 minutes you'll be at operating temperature and will need the 40W viscosity protection until you shut her down. You drive the same speeds, hills and various load factors regardless of outdoor temperature don't you?
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Really, guys, Water-cooled VW engines are pretty tough little buggers. I have one with 300,000 miles on it, have used all kinds of oils in it over the years, and it's running strong.
 
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Out of curiosity, which engine does this car have? I know it's the 2.0T, but if 2013.5 (ea888.3) and newer, you'll have a 4.5 liter (4.8 quarts) capacity. The older 2.0T was slightly less capacity. Anyway, if only 1 out of the almost 5 liters is 0w20, it would probably not hurt anything. I'm extremely OCD with my cars, especially the GLI, so I would drain it and use the correct oil, keeping the filter in place. Running the full sump on the correct oil is worth peace of mind to me.

Mike
 
0W-20 is usually on the stout side of average, so more like a 25 at op temp ... Dead of winter and pan temps will not be excessive. So you have lowered your average viscosity to 3W-28. No big deal until late spring/summer. Then I'd be back to a 0W-30 (because it's usually stouter than a 5W-30 ...) and cruse on
laugh.gif
 
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