Long time lurker, first time poster here - great to be nerding out about vehicle maintenance and lubrication on the BITOG forums.
With those formalities out of the way, I'd like to draw upon your collective experience and knowledge (Wiswind seems to be fairly experienced with my topic). I'd like to preface by saying I have tried searching awhile for a thread that addresses my question without any luck. Recently, I bought an '01 Toyota Sienna (~159,000 miles) with the allegedly sludge-prone 1MZ-FE via third party. Although it was cosmetically well-cared for and the owner appeared to be fairly savvy in regard to maintenance, and claimed 3k OCIs with synthetic, there wasn't a lot in the way of records. So, the first thing I did was replace the PCV valve and check the hose for blockages as preventative maintenance.
I pulled off what appeared to be a Toyota PCV valve, although I couldn't determine whether it was the original or a replacement part. The bottom had some coke plaque, but the internal valve was still fairly free and no evidence of excessive build up, so no worries there. The hose didn't seem to have a lot of residue in it either. As some of you might know, it's hard to tell much more without pulling a valve cover, since Mr. T decided to put sound dampening material inside of the oil filler baffle in the valve cover. The engine doesn't appear to be using oil, although it seems to be getting darker a little quicker than I'd like, which may be due to an emissions issue I was dealing with. No evidence of coolant, however, and nothing indicative of oil burning when observing the tailpipe.
That said, I'm considering changing the oil to PP and a larger quality filter. To be honest, I don't feel like shelling out for Auto-RX but would still like to take a gradual approach to cleaning up any possible sludge (there might be none for all I know) during my OCIs. I can't imagine I'll put more than 3-4,000 miles on it per year with several 24 mile trips put on it each week and any recreational driving. Can anyone confirm whether MMO is worth putting in with PP for some nice, slow cleaning? I'm honestly unsure how MMO behaves with a synthetic oil and it may be a non-issue.
In any case, I have a bottle of Lubegard Engine Flush, which I believe to be a good product, given Lubegard's reputation and my luck with their red bottle ATF additive. What I'm wondering is whether it's feasible or a good idea to use this on my engine before draingin the oil. IF there is any sludge in the engine, I don't want it to clog the oil pick up, obviously. My thought was to use a fraction of the bottle, say 2-2.5 oz of the 10 oz total and use it gradually over the next several OCIs to avoid clogging any oil passages or the pick up. Would this actually work as a gradual cleaning process or would it create more harm than good even by using a small amount of the bottle at the end of each OCI? I've used Lubegard engine flush before on a seriously neglected AMC 4.0 and I was alarmed at what came out. There was actually organic material in the oil, what appeared to be hair/fur and other unidentifiable flora and fauna. It appeared to help the engine, but that gave me an idea of how potentially effective the product is (of course, I don't know what would have come out without adding it). Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Usage of Lubegard Engine Flush with 1MZ-FE
- Thread starter mphilleo
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I would steer well clear of drive around oil flushes additives, particularly as I presume this engine has a turbo. Liqui Moly do make a drive around flush BUT if you read their PDS it warns that the sump should be removed for use in a badly sludged engine. Idle only flush additives that are used just before an oil & filter change are far safer, with minimal risk from a blocked oil filter or even oil pump intake screen during the 10 or 15 mins idle time required.
Using any type of flush additive can make any existing oil leaks worse due to the false oil seal effect where sludge or varnish help a worn oil seal or gasket to function. So if you do have any leaks, just switch to a high detergent oil like Mobil 1 or Amsoil and keep the OCI short.
If the previous owner has been using a good major brand full synthetic and 3K OCI's, I suspect the block is probably clean, so if the oil is getting dirty, it might just be worn rings or valve guide oil seals allowing blowby products (Mostly fuel and Carbon) into the oil. Gummed up injectors can also cause a similar issue.
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I had a 98 Sienna. Did you open the front valve cover to have a look? Mine had minor sludge in the corners around the front cam. I never removed the rear cover to look.
I used different synthetic oil on the motor in the 10 years I owned it. Mobil 1 and PP. I also tried motor flushes, MMO and Auto-rx. It never got a whole lot better. I also went to an oversized oil filter.
Engine never consumed oil. There was never a major improvement in the cleaning. I think it's partially due to the design of the engine.
Are are some pics of what it looked like.
http://s115.photobucket.com/user/charkin...rt=3&page=1
Just make sure you change the PCV valve regularly and use a quality motor oil. You can safely use a 5K OCI.
Don't drive with a flush in the sump!
Drain it hot, fill to the brim with diesel, come back 24hrs later to drain and fill with cheap oil, idle for a few mins, drain and go to your chosen oil&filter.
Noooooooooo! Do not put any lubregard in that engine. Snake oil!!!
Less than 1% of those engines got sludged. Just use PP and it will be nice and clean. I have a 98 1mzfe and it runs great with no sludge. I use PP or Maxlife and no additives. I put in a new OEM PCV valve every couple of years. It is a daily driver that runs like a champ at 205k miles.
Originally Posted By: JC1
I had a 98 Sienna. Did you open the front valve cover to have a look?
I just wanted to clarify, in case I wasn't super clear in the OP, that I would use the Lubegard engine flush as directed, just in a far smaller amount. So it'd be added to the sump, run for 15 minutes and drained, not during normal use.
From what I understand, Toyota updated the PCV setup to alleviate any sludging issues in '02 or '03 IIRC. I appreciate the responses from the those who had older Siennas/1MZ-FEs, but did those engines share the same PCV system as my '01 with VVT-i?
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Originally Posted By: mphilleo
I just wanted to clarify, in case I wasn't super clear in the OP, that I would use the Lubegard engine flush as directed, just in a far smaller amount. So it'd be added to the sump, run for 15 minutes and drained, not during normal use.
From what I understand, Toyota updated the PCV setup to alleviate any sludging issues in '02 or '03 IIRC. I appreciate the responses from the those who had older Siennas/1MZ-FEs, but did those engines share the same PCV system as my '01 with VVT-i?
The rear bank is the problem as the oil pools due to the angle. The updated valve cover uses a screw in PCV valve versus the push in style with grommet. 
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
I presume this engine has a turbo.
Those pics seem to show a clean engine.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Those pics seem to show a clean engine.
Originally Posted By: alltrac
The rear bank is the problem as the oil pools due to the angle. The updated valve cover uses a screw in PCV valve versus the push in style with grommet.
Not true, if you use a good major brand oil flush additive (The ones designed for use at idle just before an oil & filter change are safer) made by Liqui Moly or Amsoil.
Using a high detergent full synthetic and short OCI's will also clean up varnish, BUT it does take several OCI's to do a good job.
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Not true, if you use a good major brand oil flush additive (The ones designed for use at idle just before an oil & filter change are safer) made by Liqui Moly or Amsoil.
Using a high detergent full synthetic and short OCI's will also clean up varnish, BUT it does take several OCI's to do a good job.
Originally Posted By: mphilleo
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Not true, if you use a good major brand oil flush additive (The ones designed for use at idle just before an oil & filter change are safer) made by Liqui Moly or Amsoil.
Using a high detergent full synthetic and short OCI's will also clean up varnish, BUT it does take several OCI's to do a good job.
Originally Posted By: mphilleo
Originally Posted By: UltrafanUK
Not true, if you use a good major brand oil flush additive (The ones designed for use at idle just before an oil & filter change are safer) made by Liqui Moly or Amsoil.
Using a high detergent full synthetic and short OCI's will also clean up varnish, BUT it does take several OCI's to do a good job.
I wouldn't worry about partial dosing, since these reputable companies (Lubegard, Amsoil, Liqui-Moly) all have put considerable R&D into their products for use across a wide range of neglected engines without damage. I would use as directed on the can, maybe letting it run for a little longer than the can to give the demulsifying agents additional time to work. Then, for the oil change, use something inexpensive but with lots of cleaning agents (Pennzoil High Mileage Vehicle would be my choice) along with a good filter, and drive it frequently until about 1,000 miles, then change the oil and filter again to whatever you want for the long term (PP or PP High Mileage are great choices).
I just did a flush on my new-to-me 2006 Odyssey with 136k with Liqui-Moly Pro Line engine flush, let it idle for 25 minutes, drained and filled with PP 5W-20 since I bought 20 quarts @ $2.49/ea and a PureOne 14610. I'll run for 3k miles then drain and fill again since the flush didn't look too nasty. I haven't pulled a VC yet but what I can see through the oil hole is sludge-free and is slowly removing some of the varnish. These 3.5L J35A7 engines have a reputation of being hard on oil as well due to the VCM function. Good luck!
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