UOA - 06 Civic SI - 13k on m1 0w40, 114k on eng

[JoeFromPA]

Fcobra - I believe we have fairly different piston/ring designs. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I tried to get oil consumption to decrease. I've used PP, RP, Amsoil SSO, valvoline, M1 0w40, and even supertech synthetic early on...

None of it made much of a difference.

Actually, I take that back, up to 26k miles I was burning a quart every ~2-3k miles. That's when I switched to SSO (and my driving conditions changed too) and the consumption decreased to ~4k miles.

Honestly, again, I'm at 115k with a spotless engine getting an easy 32-34mpg pure highway and 28-29mpg in mixed, aggressive driving. My cats are holding out, my engine runs great, my exhaust tip is reasonably clean...

Why would I tinker at this point?

 

[hooligan24]

Quote:
Why would I tinker at this point?


"Thou shall not stop tinkering"

Im pretty sure I read that in the site agreement when I signed up for this site

 

[tig1]

With a 13K OCI and adding 3.5 qts of oil you would expect a high TBN for this OCI. As for the engine being clean, synthetic oils make a differance. Mine stay spotless. Also I would try M1 0-30.

 

[Clevy]

I have a hard time taking advice from a guy who has a problem with spelling. Asking tig about oil is like watching a mobil ad. Don't drink the Kool aid

 

[addyguy]

The great thing is that if you get an M5, you can use the same oil in it!

IF you were keeping this car, I'd push it to a 16-18k interval.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
I have a hard time taking advice from a guy who has a problem with spelling. Asking tig about oil is like watching a mobil ad. Don't drink the Kool aid


I actualy werert addresin yous. Please make note of my PM to you.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: addyguy
The great thing is that if you get an M5, you can use the same oil in it!

IF you were keeping this car, I'd push it to a 16-18k interval.


This!

 

[bluesubie]

Are you keeping or ditching the LGT as well? Do you recall if this was API SM? I keep thinking of trying this oil again but wasn't impressed with the 1.9 TBN in 6k miles. I'm curious about M1 HM since I am a chronic tinkerer. Maybe you would have less consumption with M1 HM 10W-40.

-Dennis

 

[Artem]

I think that a 10w40 would be too thick. A HM 5w30 would be a good place to start if the OP was keeping the car.

 

[JoeFromPA]

Originally Posted By: hooligan24
Quote:
Why would I tinker at this point?


"Thou shall not stop tinkering"

Im pretty sure I read that in the site agreement when I signed up for this site


lol - it's the car enthusiast/oil enthusiast motto. No oil is ever good enough, or proven enough, where it does not need to be monitored or replaced with another oil which may even be inferior - simply for the fact that it allows you to tinker

 

[JoeFromPA]

Bluesubie - I'm pretty sure this is my pathway:

Sell the Boxster for ~$8500. Use that money to buy the M5 (along with savings/possibly a modest loan).

Ensure M5 is well sorted while keeping the civic SI.

Once sorted, sell the SI for $6-7k (it'll have ~120-130k miles on it at that point).

Use ~$4-5k of the SI money to modify the LGT at 90k miles: Koni suspension or streetable coilovers, improved caster lower control arm bushings, equal length headers, single cat downpipe, turbo inlet hose, upgraded top mount intercooler, and a custom tune. If the stock turbo has any shaft play at 90k, then I'll replace it as well. Also a new clutch & TSK3 throwout bearing preventatively while I'm in there.

I'm looking for 280-300whp with amazing response/low lag in a DD, along with a firm & comfortable suspension, and great reliability.

So, as of right now, keeping the LGT. Even if we decide my wife (who is now 2 months pregnant) wants something else, I think I might keep the LGT as the beater car long-term.

 

[JoeFromPA]

Btw, yes, this was 0w40 API-SM - just checked my leftovers in the garage.

I deliberately LIKE the M1 0w40 because within 2k miles it's a heavy 30 weight. I don't want a 10w40 which will maintain a solid 40 weight throughout the cycle. Hope that makes sense.

...

Last thing - The M5 will likely get M1 15w50 9 months of the year and Castrol Syntec 5w40 or 10w40 the rest of the year. That car MAY have a rod bearing issue from being a 5.0 liter getting revved to 7k rpms - it benefits from a strong oil.

That being said, it also takes 10 quarts and tends to consume - I won't be buying ~$10/quart redline or TWS 10w60 either. Probably. We'll see how quickly it becomes my mistress

 

[Artem]

It's a never ending battle. I played around with a few brands and settled with Amsoil as it's cheap for me to get with a PC account and it gets delivered to my door free of charge.

I didn't see much difference with any other brand of oils that i tried, in both performance and UOAs.

When you decide to sell the car (if doing a private sale) just make sure the buyer knows to check and add oil regularly. I service a lot of 8th gen Civics, mostly Si's and every other guy comes to me with a dry dipstick

and gets to hear a 30 min lecture while i perform the oil change / maintenance.

 

[scottw]

Your silicon levels seem admirable for the OCI miles.

What kind of air filter are you using?

 

[ltslimjim]

^Yes, I MUST know this!

 

[JoeFromPA]

Uh oh - here comes the REAL controversy...

I've been running a drop-in K&N filter on EVERY analysis shown

The same one. Cleaned once every 20-30k miles, no more frequent.

 

[ltslimjim]

^OHHH, he just dropped a K&N bomb!

 

[JoeFromPA]

And the thread goes dead silent as heads explode...

 

[bluesubie]

Ok, you're keeping the LGT so I'll continue to talk to you.

Apparently your Civic and my wife's 99 Outback are the only cars ever to show low silicon on a K&N panel filter.

-Dennis

 

[scottw]

I'd like to apologize to everyone on the board for asking that question.

That is interesting though. But just think, if you'd been running a fram the silicon numbers might have been negative.........I kid, I kid.