under valve cover pics 363k miles

Joined
Dec 7, 2016
Messages
419
Location
Wisconsin
Originally Posted by Y_K
No inner races on the axle roller bearings for one.
Again, typical of modern semi-float axles. Industry standard to use the machined axle shaft as the inner race. Not gonna find a full floater out of a 1 ton truck under a passenger car, nor can you find flanged semi-floats. Anyway, that doesn't have much to do with it. The bearings can pit/wear on a separate race or the axle shaft.
 
Joined
Feb 15, 2003
Messages
13,460
Location
Jupiter, Florida
Originally Posted by Lolvoguy
Originally Posted by csandste
Combo of old style, lazy large displacement engines and new oils (even with some group II) are a combo that will allow you to drive forever. Nice!
approved The high-strung, ubiquitous 1 and 2 point whatever, turbo(and super)-charged engines of today will NEVER reach these miles without at least one complete rebuild.
And yet there is this: An F150 3.5 Ecoboost with 385,000 miles on it. https://www.f150ecoboost.net/forum/...s-my-2011-eco-boost-385k-mar-2019-a.html
 
Joined
Oct 3, 2008
Messages
4,851
Location
Kuwait
Looking good! I personally run Petro-Canada Duron HP 15W-40 HDEO in mine with a Fram XG2 synthetic filter, which I standardized across the fleet. Prior to that, I was running Motul X-Cess 8100 5W-40, but decided I wanted to do more frequent oil changes. Then again, my engine is not stock and sees red line very frequently. Basics you need to watch out for around here: - Air filter. Do NOT blow it "clean" with a shop gun. You won't be able to get all the fine particles of sand out, you'll just end up loosening them to be sucked back into the engine. I replace mine at 3,000 mile intervals. - MAF sensor. Clean this every time you replace the air filter. - Throttle body/IAC valve/EGR valve. Depending on fuel quality, you'll want to keep an eye on it for carbon build up. Personally I pull them off and let them sit in a bucket of 50:50 Simple Green and water overnight every 6,000 miles. - Coolant. A 2 year/25,000 mile interval is decent. Many folks run G-05, my personal favorite is John Deer CoolGard-II, which is difficult to source locally, so I run G-13 (30% coolant to 70% distilled water). - PCV valve. Replace this every time you change you spark plugs. My interval is 30,000 miles - this includes spark plugs, COP boots and oxygen sensors as well. I have two sets of injectors, so the serviced set goes on and the set I pull out goes to Trav. - ATF. Ford put a thermostat in the cooler, temperatures in excess of 200 F are not uncommon. My unit is anything but stock, so I upgraded both my cooler and transmission pan. That said, 10,000 miles is a decent interval for the stock set up. You can get an aftermarket pan, or take your stock pan to a shop to put a drain plug in to make things easier. - Differential fluid. I run Motorcraft 75W-140, which is what the manual calls for in the Export market. I got a Torsen T2 in mine, along with a GT500 differential cover, and do a simple drain refill every 6,000 miles. Depending on how you use your car, 30,000 miles might work best for you, along with the tune up. The rear end is a weak spot in this application. - Brake fluid. I run DOT 5.1, DOT 4 or DOT 4 Plus is just as good, and change it out annually. - Power steering fluid. Flush this every time you service your differential, I run Pentosin CHF 11S in mine.
 
Joined
Nov 3, 2020
Messages
58
The romeo and windsor modular engine is a fantastic design used in everything from mustangs to F350. In this application it was detuned to only 45-50hp/liter, mostly low end and mid range grunt, so not stressed out at all.

The panther chassis is an extremely rugged body on ladder frame with a 1/2 ton truck axle in the back and double wishbone front suspension that was ideal for police, taxi, limosine service.

I am actually more surprised by the shock others have in this. I'd say 300k is middle age for that battlewagon.
 
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