No inner races on the axle roller bearings for one.
Again, typical of modern semi-float axles. Industry standard to use the machined axle shaft as the inner race.
Not gonna find a full floater out of a 1 ton truck under a passenger car, nor can you find flanged semi-floats.
Anyway, that doesn't have much to do with it. The bearings can pit/wear on a separate race or the axle shaft.
Looking good! I personally run Petro-Canada Duron HP 15W-40 HDEO in mine with a Fram XG2 synthetic filter, which I standardized across the fleet. Prior to that, I was running Motul X-Cess 8100 5W-40, but decided I wanted to do more frequent oil changes. Then again, my engine is not stock and sees red line very frequently.
Basics you need to watch out for around here:
- Air filter. Do NOT blow it "clean" with a shop gun. You won't be able to get all the fine particles of sand out, you'll just end up loosening them to be sucked back into the engine. I replace mine at 3,000 mile intervals.
- MAF sensor. Clean this every time you replace the air filter.
- Throttle body/IAC valve/EGR valve. Depending on fuel quality, you'll want to keep an eye on it for carbon build up. Personally I pull them off and let them sit in a bucket of 50:50 Simple Green and water overnight every 6,000 miles.
- Coolant. A 2 year/25,000 mile interval is decent. Many folks run G-05, my personal favorite is John Deer CoolGard-II, which is difficult to source locally, so I run G-13 (30% coolant to 70% distilled water).
- PCV valve. Replace this every time you change you spark plugs. My interval is 30,000 miles - this includes spark plugs, COP boots and oxygen sensors as well. I have two sets of injectors, so the serviced set goes on and the set I pull out goes to Trav.
- ATF. Ford put a thermostat in the cooler, temperatures in excess of 200 F are not uncommon. My unit is anything but stock, so I upgraded both my cooler and transmission pan. That said, 10,000 miles is a decent interval for the stock set up. You can get an aftermarket pan, or take your stock pan to a shop to put a drain plug in to make things easier.
- Differential fluid. I run Motorcraft 75W-140, which is what the manual calls for in the Export market. I got a Torsen T2 in mine, along with a GT500 differential cover, and do a simple drain refill every 6,000 miles. Depending on how you use your car, 30,000 miles might work best for you, along with the tune up. The rear end is a weak spot in this application.
- Brake fluid. I run DOT 5.1, DOT 4 or DOT 4 Plus is just as good, and change it out annually.
- Power steering fluid. Flush this every time you service your differential, I run Pentosin CHF 11S in mine.
The romeo and windsor modular engine is a fantastic design used in everything from mustangs to F350. In this application it was detuned to only 45-50hp/liter, mostly low end and mid range grunt, so not stressed out at all.
The panther chassis is an extremely rugged body on ladder frame with a 1/2 ton truck axle in the back and double wishbone front suspension that was ideal for police, taxi, limosine service.
I am actually more surprised by the shock others have in this. I'd say 300k is middle age for that battlewagon.