Ultimate mix for 'metal cling'?
- Thread starter addyguy
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I don't know but I always add 1 quart of RedLine to my oil and UOA's have improved.
As has been discussed here before, one of the the properties of ester-based oils and additives is that the esters 'cling' to the metal somewhat, and can reduce start-up friction.
In a similar way, one of the properties of the old EP add lead naphenate is that it does the same thing, namely: "Serves as polar surface activating and wetting agent for lubricant to metal". This is where Bardahl gets their claim to their 'polar cling' formula in their oil adds. It helps oil stick to metal and reduces start-up friction.
Perhaps you can see where I'm going with this - with these two substances having this valuable lubricating property, would a mix of the two (I'm thinking 1/2 quart Bardahl 1 add & 1/2 quart Redline oil) be the ultimate mix to reduce start-up friction? Or would these two substances cancel each other out in some way? Is my 'chemistry' even close to being on the right track?
In a similar way, one of the properties of the old EP add lead naphenate is that it does the same thing, namely: "Serves as polar surface activating and wetting agent for lubricant to metal". This is where Bardahl gets their claim to their 'polar cling' formula in their oil adds. It helps oil stick to metal and reduces start-up friction.
Perhaps you can see where I'm going with this - with these two substances having this valuable lubricating property, would a mix of the two (I'm thinking 1/2 quart Bardahl 1 add & 1/2 quart Redline oil) be the ultimate mix to reduce start-up friction? Or would these two substances cancel each other out in some way? Is my 'chemistry' even close to being on the right track?
maybe so try one at a time of forget the whole thing an just use Rl.
lead nap has been phased out is Bardahl with lead still sold in the US?
You might also try a HM or a FM energy/mileage type oil to.
bruce
lead nap has been phased out is Bardahl with lead still sold in the US?
You might also try a HM or a FM energy/mileage type oil to.
bruce
Valvoline Conventional mixed with Vavoline Maxlife synthetic helped took away the metal cling in my car.
Brian - thats what I was wondering with this post - would these two processes cancel each other out, or would they work together for the best coating...?
Bruce - if you look at the MSDS of Bardahl 1 and 2 (the cheapie treatments in the metal cans), they still contain 1-7% lead nap....at least in Canada....take a look:
http://asiaoil.co.th/bardahl/msds/MSDS9100 B-1 OIL SUPPLEMENT.pdf
Bruce - if you look at the MSDS of Bardahl 1 and 2 (the cheapie treatments in the metal cans), they still contain 1-7% lead nap....at least in Canada....take a look:
http://asiaoil.co.th/bardahl/msds/MSDS9100 B-1 OIL SUPPLEMENT.pdf
I don't mix oil or additives.
The oil in my sump is 5.5 quarts 5W-20 Group IV PAO full synthetic as it was poured from bottles. Nothing else.
It has excellent "metal cling" properties.
How do I know this? Because when I check the dipstick before initial morning startup, the oil is halfway to the top of it. I wipe off excess oil to get accurate oil level reading. This indicate similar conditions through other parts of engine as well.
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