Ugly rubber/plastic? wheel weights

I'm guessing it's lead encased in plastic to keep lead contamination from occurring. Very interesting how they gave one a twist and epoxied it to the wheel. Maybe an arts grad with a major in sculpture working as a tire mechanic?
 

gathermewool

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For alloy wheels, I don't remember a time over the past decade where these weren't used. I don't recall them looking like this though; more of a silver color, if it even matters.
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Very interesting how they gave one a twist and epoxied it to the wheel. Maybe an arts grad with a major in sculpture working as a tire mechanic?
Huh? Are you talking about the second picture, which is a picture of the first weight, after it was pulled off by the OP.
 
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N.C.
Is it attached to the back side of the wheel? I always tell the shop to put the weights on the back of the wheel. It might make the balance off a bit, but I've never had a noticeable problem, and they're out of sight.
 
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North Carolina
Originally Posted by gman2304
Is it attached to the back side of the wheel? I always tell the shop to put the weights on the back of the wheel. It might make the balance off a bit, but I've never had a noticeable problem, and they're out of sight.
The pics he shows, are of the back side of the wheel so... shrug
 
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ME
Put it in a beaker full of water, weigh the beaker before, during, and after. You'll figure out the water displaced and the additional weight, and what metal it is. My state banned lead wheel weights, and I don't think they're going to care if they're "encapsulated" because they fall off and get run over and shredded.
 
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Western Canada
Those are new style, lead free stick on weights. They come on a continuous roll, and are cut to measure. 1 inch equals 1 oz etc. The tech spins the wheel on the balance machine to determine the exact amount of weight needed, then cuts a certain length of material to stick on the wheel. They come with a measuring guide and a cutting tool. 3M was marketing these as more accurate, less waste, fewer part numbers, cheaper ...
 
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Michigan
It is a lead-free composite. Many states do not allow lead wheel weights. All OE manufacturers and many aftermarket tire stores have gone to a lead-free alternative. Additionally, instead of break-off chucks in .5 oz increments, weight is based on length. With most balancers capable of better than .5 oz accuracy, cutting the new material to length can give a more accurate balance and end up using a little less weight material. For a single owner or a single store, it doesn't add up to much, but think about a manufacturer churning out a million cars. That little bit on each wheel adds up. All wheel weights are ugly. New weights at least out-perform lead weights in every way. The new weights don't discolor or corrode, the coating will never flake off, are available in different profiles (as thin as 4mm), and have far superior adhesive than traditional stick-on weights. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/All-3M-Products/Automotive/Automotive-Products/Wheel-Weights/?N=5002385+8709313+8711017+8711413+8719975+3294857497&rt=r3
 
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California
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Now why would a person want to pull of their balance weights?
Because they are ugly. The ones I use look much better.
Don't you think you are going overboard somebody may look at the backside of your wheels and see *gasp* ugly weights? shocked
 
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Wet side WA
Originally Posted by Dave1027
Originally Posted by atikovi
Originally Posted by Snagglefoot
Now why would a person want to pull of their balance weights?
Because they are ugly. The ones I use look much better.
Don't you think you are going overboard somebody may look at the backside of your wheels and see *gasp* ugly weights? shocked
LOL this!
 

atikovi

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Originally Posted by gman2304
Is it attached to the back side of the wheel? I always tell the shop to put the weights on the back of the wheel. It might make the balance off a bit, but I've never had a noticeable problem, and they're out of sight.
Most wheels these days don't have an outer lip anyway so the weights HAVE to go on the backside.
 

atikovi

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Originally Posted by MrHorspwer
All wheel weights are ugly. New weights at least out-perform lead weights in every way. The new weights don't discolor or corrode, the coating will never flake off, are available in different profiles (as thin as 4mm), and have far superior adhesive than traditional stick-on weights.
I've been using these http://www.plombco.com/lead-passenger-car-adhesive-wheel-weights/ for years and they don't discolor or corrode either.
 

atikovi

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Originally Posted by Dave1027
Don't you think you are going overboard somebody may look at the backside of your wheels and see *gasp* ugly weights? shocked
The weights are quite visible on many open spoke wheels. And at home, do you not vacuum under the bed or sofa just because it isn't visible?
Originally Posted by geeman789
Aren't those wheels off of a SMART CAR ... ?
Yes. [Linked Image]
 
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166
Location
Florida
Non lead weights are horrible. They weigh less so they are longer which throws the balance off even more. The clip ons are real bad, they are huge. I bring all my wheels in for balance and or mount loose, because shops strip studs and don't torque with a wrench. I clean the backs of the wheels completely. I go to one local shop that uses real lead strip weights. They get it right on. Not a big deal on small car tires, but a huge deal on mud tires. Depending on the balance machine, some weights should go on the outer rim, some on the inner, some in the direct center, which I mark by determining wheel width, divide by 2, measure in, and mark it for them. Sometimes you have to compromise if that area isn't flat. When I worked in a shop as a kid, I would spin the bare wheel with valve stem in place. If the wheel was off, I would weld a nut towards the center or inner edge, where ever the machine showed, and spin till it was true, grind or add weld. This was on steel wheels. Then you need much less weights. Old cast aluminum wheels you could die grind material to get them true. Also on Mud trucks I would weld on a tube over where the valve stem goes to prevent ripping the stem off, then weld a nut opposite of it inside the wheel to get neutral balance. You want dynamic high speed balancing, this shows exactly where the weight needs to go. Also the backspace should be measured and entered into the machine. Most shops just set a default at 4 inches.
 
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Cali
Have no problem on my 20's, just recently had the tires rotated and balanced.

IMG_0043.JPG
 
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Lakeville, MN
If anything, the one being complained about looks cleaner and actually less noticeable based on the lack of any other shapes or marking on it. That being said, the reality is none of them bother me - they are doing their job in their expected place...
 
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