Turning an oil into a High Mileage oil

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I posted this in the additives forum but I figured it was relevant here as well.

I drive a Subaru and Subarus are notorious for leaky seals. Right now my 15 year old Subaru (85,000 miles) is nice and dry. I recently changed the valve cover gaskets and the previous owner did the cam seals. I would like to keep it dry. As such, I have been running high mileage oils with seal conditioners and, specificaly, the Quaker State HM oil. It was rated pretty highly on the motoroilevaluator.com site. But I would like something better for my car and I wanted longer OCIs. So I have switched to Mobil 1 High Mileage. Of all the synthetic high mileage oils, it rated out the best, although the Valvoline full synthetic was pretty high too.

But now I am hearing that Mobil 1 may not be good for Subarus. The main complaint is that it leaches out metals and particularly copper. On the additives forum they said that the copper would come from the bearings. Perhaps the cases where copper was high were when M1 was used in a newer engine. I have also read that new engines tend to leach out metals until they are fully broken in.

Also, people have complained that 5W30 M1 has a tendency to shear at high RPMs. I don't normally rev my engines so I not too concerned.

The reports on M1 being bad for Subarus came from the Nasioc website. Several people who have had their engine bearings go on them were using M1 at the time and blamed it on the oil. I honestly can't tell you how many of them were running turbos or how many of them regularly revved the [censored] out of their engines on a regular basis. I'm sure the oil saw stress in these cases and I'm sure the bearings did as well. However, you don't ever want to just turn a blind eye to such reports.

What I am guessing is that these guys really pushed their engines in more ways than just one. I'm also guessing that they were running them in hot weather and/or using 5W30 standard M1. It is possible that they did experience shear in their oil due to the use conditions and the same use conditions were stressing the bearings. If all of my assumtions are true, they probably would have been fine with 5W40 or 10W40 M1 but they pushed the limits on the 5W30.

Going to a 5W40 and, specifically, Redline 5W40 would seem to be good from both standpoints of shear and damage to metal parts. But then I would lose my seal conditioners. The 40W would help with shear and our summer temps can get over 100F for a few days but, when we do, I don't stress my car. We see temps below 0F far more often. That is one reason I want synthetic and a 5W one at that. I have also read that older engines (mileage, not age) like heavier oils since the bearing passages open up. I'm not sure if my 85K mile engine is there yet though. Also, this engine is known for tight passages by design. So frequent low temperatures and tight passages (assuming they are still tight) are both good reasons for running 5W. The main reasons for wanting 5W40 versus 5W30 would be the aforementioned shear, the handful of 100F days we get and the possibility that my engine passages have opened up.

The M1 5W30 HM I am now using is a bit of a comprimise since the additive pack raises the HTHS and the warm viscosity. Perhaps that is good enough to accomodate the reasons I gave above for wanting to move to a 5W40.

But here is my question, can I add something to the Redline oil to make it into a high mileage oil? I am thinking of the following:

1. Lubegard Bio-Tech Engine Oil Protectant
2. ATP AT-205 Re-seal
3. Lubro-Moly Motor Oil Saver
4. Justice Brothers Engine Stop-Leak

I am thinking of adding one of these in less than full strength amounts to just get some conditioning versus a leak fix which I don't really need at this time. I also looked at Auto-Rx but they specifically said it shouldn't be added to ester based oils (group V) due to competition for coating the metal surfaces.

Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?

Even if M1 5W30 HM is good enough for my purposes, I am still academically curious as to whether or not Redline 5W40 could be modified into a psuedo-HM oil by adding the products I mentioned above. The Lubegard and Lubro-moly products seem to have a good reputation and the ATP product specifically states that it conditions seals and does not swell them like solvents will.
 
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The esters/grp. V tend to naturally swell seals so you most likely you would not need to add all that other stuff (even for the reason you don't know what is working and RL is very expensive). I highly doubt those engines blew because of M1 oil. M1 makes high quality stuff and I haven't seen any evidence of copper leaching in all the UOA's I have seen. Fuel, OTOH is a Cu leacher and some Subies are prone to fuel dilution.

If you want to try the additives run them with Rotella T 5w40, or just run the 5w40 and see what happens. A lot of Subaru owners swear by it. If you go the RL route, keep in mind that it may take 2-3 runs to see the benefits...be prepared to spend $$. I would try Rotella 5w40, then maybe your additives if you see no improvement. I personally don't like many additives besides Biotech LubeGard, the stuff has really lowered temps and smoothed out vehicles I've had.

Try Rotella 5w40, pretty reasonable oil and good quality. A UOA might not hurt either.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
The esters/grp. V tend to naturally swell seals so you most likely you would not need to add all that other stuff (even for the reason you don't know what is working and RL is very expensive). I highly doubt those engines blew because of M1 oil. M1 makes high quality stuff and I haven't seen any evidence of copper leaching in all the UOA's I have seen. Fuel, OTOH is a Cu leacher and some Subies are prone to fuel dilution.

If you want to try the additives run them with Rotella T 5w40, or just run the 5w40 and see what happens. A lot of Subaru owners swear by it. If you go the RL route, keep in mind that it may take 2-3 runs to see the benefits...be prepared to spend $$. I would try Rotella 5w40, then maybe your additives if you see no improvement. I personally don't like many additives besides Biotech LubeGard, the stuff has really lowered temps and smoothed out vehicles I've had.

Try Rotella 5w40, pretty reasonable oil and good quality. A UOA might not hurt either.


Thanks for the useful and informative reply. Too bad more people here aren't like you.

On the fuel dilution, is there any reason to believe M1 would be more susceptible to that or maybe a thinner oil versus a thicker oil?

On the 5W40 options, I agree that Redline is really expensive. Maybe even an extended OCI couldn't bring the price back down to a reachable level. But it is great oil though. I know that a lot of people like the Rotella, including the people on NASIOC who seem to hate M1. Any idea what makes it better than the other synthetics at its price range like, say, M1 (standard, not HM as it doesn't exist) or Valvoline or Petrol Canada (assuming we could even get it here)?

And would it make sense to add the Lubegard product to these to get extra seal conditioning? I have also had good experiences with other Lubegard products so I tend to trust them. The Lubro-moly product looks very similar by its description and its MSDS. The other two concern me as the information about them is very limited. The only thing listed on the MSDS for the AT-205 is a solvent but they actually claim that not having distillates like Lubegard and Lubr-moly is a good thing. Still, it seems a little shady. I suppose Auto-RX would be back on the table for some of these non-ester based syns.

Finally, I have also considered blending the 5W30 and 10W40 M1 High Mileage oils. Due to my driving style and the temperature ranges in my area, I don't need the full benefits of M1 5W or the 40 versus 30. It would be nice to have a little higher viscosity and HTHS at higher temps while still keeping the viscosity at -22F sufficienctly low to avoid issues with potentially tightbearing passages. Since the viscosity of both 5W30 and 10W40 M1 products at low temperature are pretty low, it shouldn't be a big deal to have some 10W mixed with the 5W. If I do a 3 part 10W40 to 2 part 5W30 I would get approximately the following numbers:

PP = -31.7F
FP = 448F
VI = 162
HTHS = 3.7
cST @ 100C = 13.5
cST @ 40C = 85.2

That looks a lot like a 5W40, I think.
 
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Putting additives in Red Line oil is like trying to improve on the Mona Lisa. RL 5w30 is a robust enough oil for your application. The ester base stock is going to give you seal conditioning, and the additive package is stronger in moly and phosphorous than any HM oil you can name.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
I personally don't like many additives besides Biotech LubeGard, the stuff has really lowered temps and smoothed out vehicles I've had.


Lowered what temperatures?
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
There`s some excellent Mobil 1 uoas w/Subarus on this site.


Would you happen to have the TBN values for virgin 5W30 or 10W40 M1 HM oils? What was the typical OCI for the VOAs you have seen with these oils?

I have been looking at the 5W40 oil options and the M1 Turbo Diesel oil looks really good. I suspect this is a direct competitor to the Rotella T. The TBN is 10.7 and the HTHS is 3.8.
 
After more research I have discovered that Redline 5W40 and M1 5W40 Turbo Diesel don't have moly in the mix as they are designed for diesel applications. I don't know if that is the case with teh Rotella T. Also, people have complained that the Redline has a low residual TBN after only 5000-6000 miles. That surprised me.
 
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But now I am hearing that Mobil 1 may not be good for Subarus. The main complaint is that it leaches out metals and particularly copper. On the additives forum they said that the copper would come from the bearings. Perhaps the cases where copper was high were when M1 was used in a newer engine. I have also read that new engines tend to leach out metals until they are fully broken in.



Don't believe everything you hear or read.

All oils have seal conditioners, the HM's might have a few percentage more with a tenth of a percent higher viscosity.

Shotgunning an oil with additives without knowing the long term effects is not economical.
 
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