Trying to get my TDI to last forever.

[Clayslayer]

I have a 2002 VW Jetta TDI with 306,900+ miles and counting. It runs like a charm and I'm doing my best to make it last me indefinately.

I've used a few different oils in it since I've owned it (I bought it used with rather high mileage) including: Mobil 1 TDT, Rotella T6, Amsoil AFL, and am currently running Amsoil DEO in it. The 5 speed manual tranny is filled with a hair over 2 quarts of Amsoil MTG 75w-90. The engine OCI is always 10K miles. I'm going to start doing the Jetta annually weather it needs it or not.

I've kept obscenely detailed records on oil, fuel, maintenance etc. The oil that got me the absolute best mpg was AFL. It solidly beat T6 and TDT by at least 2mpg. I just put DEO in and am hoping for similar results.

I've had really good luck with Amsoil in the past and decided to go to Amsoil exclusively in all of my vehicles and engines.

VW TDI: DEO
Scion xB embarrassment: ASL
Toyota Highlander: ASL
1977 Ford F150 (Cummins 4BT) DEO
2007 CBR600RR: MCF
2002 Honda TRX450 Foreman: MCF
2010 Harley FLHTK: MCV(engine)/SVT(transmission)/ATF(primary)
Mowers/Generator/pressure washer/etc: Whatever's left over
Honda ATC 125 3wheeler: a mix of pee and dirt

The pull start stuff doesn't seem to care what I use. Out in the garage I've got a little bit of Rotella 15w-40 dino, a gallon of T6, about 1/2 gallon of M1 5w-30 and a quart of mystery stuff I have no idea what it is. This stuff goes in the small engines once a year regardless of use. Once it's all gone they'll get leftovers like they always have in whatever weights they happen to be.

The Harley has a heavily modified 103 inch air cooled engine and the last time it had something other than Amsoil in it was when it was on the showroom floor. 21,000 miles and absolutely zero issues. 10K OCI with it as well using MCV.

No I don't "work" for Amsoil. I just like the stuff. If you don't that's fine, just keep it to yourself. There's probably a lot of stuff out there that's just as good. I don't have anything against M1 or T6, I've used a lot of both in the past with great results, I've just decided to change to one brand for all my stuff and I'm sick of Wally-Mart.

 

[Oil Changer]

I wanna hear more about the 150 with the 4BT.

 

[eagle23]

Just curious if you've ever had an oil analysis done. It sounds like your results speak for themselves, tho. Amsoil is top drawer, and really seems to work for you.

 

[scurvy]

I think you'll do fine with your oil choices. Amsoil makes fine oil, but VE-engined TDIs aren't picky about oil. You'd most likely have the same success with M1 TDT, SRT6, Schaffer 9k, DEO/AFL, or any quality CJ-4 5w40 oil. 10k mile OCIs have never been a problem with these engines when they're healthy.

I've heard some talk that the oil pump chains on ALH engines are often on their way out at or about their 3rd timing belt - did you replace it at 300k as well? Have heard similar things about the threads in the engine mount you have to remove to do the timing belt, they need to be helicoiled about every 3rd timing belt with new TTY (stretch, one-time use) bolts at each TB.

 

[Astro14]

Every car I have ever sent to the crusher has been because of rust...all of them ran perfectly, most of them had dino oil, changed per the manufacturer's recommendation at the time (every 3,000 miles...).

The fact that you are performing the required maintenance, using good quality products, and are tracking the mechanical condition, means that this car will run as long as you want it too...just keep an eye on the rust...they salt the roads in SD, don't they?

 

[ChiTDI]

Welcome to Bitog.
Su Su Su

 

[Clayslayer]

Thanks folks. I've been lurking around here for years to read and do research.

I've never sent in an oil analysis but I plan to on my HD this spring. I've got just shy of 11,000 miles on the oil in there right now. I doubt I'll do one for the Jetta or Ford any time soon. The Toyotas will outlast me even if I'm using bacon grease in the crank changed once every three years.

The 1977 Frankenstein F-150 started life as a 351/C6 4X4 "Ranger" short box. Someone eventually put a 385 series 429 out of an early 70s Mercury land yacht. Front sump engine in 4x4=bad. The truck ran great, went fast, and had a lot of Edelbrock/MSD/etc parts. It's got 32x11.5x15 BFG All Terrains with a 9" Ford limited slip rear and Dana 44R open front. It'd pass everything but a gas station and it still takes a dedicated effort to get it stuck. After about 7 years of owning it and the price of fuel approaching $5 at one time I decided to do something...different.

When I was in Afghanistan (Asscrackistan) I used some of my nice Uncle Sam money to buy an engine and install kit from the guys at fordcummins.com . The job was not easy. No I didn't do all the work myself, I wish I could have but it was a bit beyond my level. The engine went right on the transmission with the adaptor plate and wave ring. I used a mid 90s Dodge 5.9L flexplate and starter. Had to clearance the frame to fit the starter had to cut off a good chunk of bellhousing to clear the flywheel, had to beat grind, and cut quite a bit of stuff by the time it was all said and done.

After the install it'd hit a blistering 60mph on a good day with a tailwind. It was too weak. A trip to the pump shop in town here showed me that the injector pump was shot and the nozzles were so burned up he was surprised it ran. The pump was rebuilt injector nozzles replaced, 3200RPM gov spring etc. It runs like a scalded cat now.

I can do 100mph if I try hard enough but it's "happy" at around 60-65 mph or so. The transmission does not work well, it needs an overdrive. A NV4500 is on the Horizon.

MPG is right around 20-21 give or take. Geared properly I've no doubt that it'd turn 24=26 mpg and actually go the speed limit on the interstate.

If I were to do it all over again I'd...... I don't know.

 

[Oil Changer]

Thanks for the detailed reply. I was very interested in the engine swap. I have an identical vehicle with the exception of the year. Mine is a '79.

 

[Clayslayer]

Your process would be similar but easier due to your 2wd setup. If you do it use a real manual NV 4500/5600 or ford zf. Don't waste time and money setting up a C6.