Trying not to get ripped off at the dealer. Brake rotors when to know if you really need em?

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The dealer I go to always tries to upsell and my front brakes have been squealing a bit so want them to do my pads before it damages the rotors. I've examined the rotors and they look fine, no scoring, and I have no pulsing or issues with braking.

My question is there anything I should look for ahead of time to tell if I will really need rotors? Any signs of a bad rotor, anything to look for besides cracks and grooves? I just know they're going to tell me I need them and I only want the work done if a truly need it.
 
If they've never been turned, and they're not damaged / warped / grooved, refuse the replacement, and ask for resurfacing, if they even offer it. If the rotors are grooved, they will not wear in the pads correctly and they may squeal, or worse, not brake well. If resurfacing is not offered, and you refuse the replacement of grooved rotors, they may not honor a warranty on your pads.
 
The dealer I go to always tries to upsell and my front brakes have been squealing a bit so want them to do my pads before it damages the rotors. I've examined the rotors and they look fine, no scoring, and I have no pulsing or issues with braking.

My question is there anything I should look for ahead of time to tell if I will really need rotors? Any signs of a bad rotor, anything to look for besides cracks and grooves? I just know they're going to tell me I need them and I only want the work done if a truly need it.
If everything else looks ok - find out what the minimum thickness spec is.

It's possible to wear them out.
 
The dealer I go to always tries to upsell and my front brakes have been squealing a bit so want them to do my pads before it damages the rotors. I've examined the rotors and they look fine, no scoring, and I have no pulsing or issues with braking.

My question is there anything I should look for ahead of time to tell if I will really need rotors? Any signs of a bad rotor, anything to look for besides cracks and grooves? I just know they're going to tell me I need them and I only want the work done if a truly need it.
Are your brakes squeaking when applied, or making scraping sounds when your food is off the brake?

Squeeling while applying the brakes can simply be oscillation of the pad against the brake piston or caliper brackets.
Scraping sounds when the brakes are not applied, means you probably need new pads. They will make noise untill the wear sensors beak off.

To really know if you need rotors , you would need to check the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer.

Having said that, have I put new pads on an existing rotor that was not pulsating during braking, and I did not have it checked with a micrometer? Yes I have.

But now when I do brakes, I always replace front rotors with any brake job as they frequently inexpensive. I do reuse the rear rotors as they seem to wear less.
 
Are your brakes squeaking when applied, or making scraping sounds when your food is off the brake?

Squeeling while applying the brakes can simply be oscillation of the pad against the brake piston or caliper brackets. To really know if you need rotors , you would need to check the thickness of the rotor with a micrometer.

Having said that, have I put new pads on an existing rotor that was not pulsating during braking, and I did not have it checked with a micrometer? Yes I have.

But now when I do brakes, I always replace front rotors with any brake job as they frequently inexpensive. I do reuse the rear rotors as they seem to wear less.
I only get light squeeling when i press the brake in. and only about 10% of the time. this is a sign my pads are low right?
 
I only get light squeeling when i press the brake in. and only about 10% of the time. this is a sign my pads are low right?
Usually worn pads make noise when you are NOT applying the brakes. Unless you are worn down to the rivets or backing plates.😱

Most shops are going to replace rotors, for reasons of liability and part of a guarantee.
 
But now when I do brakes, I always replace front rotors with any brake job as they frequently inexpensive. I do reuse the rear rotors as they seem to wear less.
I do the same thing. I called around last year about resurfacing rotors and couldn't find a shop that still did this. They told me it's not worth resurfacing and they just replace rotors nowadays.

Front rotors will get hotter then the rears so they usually don't warp.
 
Just change the Pads with Akebono Pads, Brake problems gone. I have only needed to change rotors because of rusting of the cooling vanes. Dont put China steel rotors on the car, use Use OEM, DBA, Brembo made in Italy Rotors only if needed. If your rotors look fine and are not shaking or pulling. Leave them, the shops always take to much metal off.
 
If I’m dealing with my own car, I can manage to do it 3 times until I figure out the problem, from a simple application of various anti-squeal treatments, to sanding both sides of each rotor with a belt sander….. hours of accumulated time. However, even if a friend asks for help, I’m very inclined to have them buy all new parts because if they are picky enough to bother me with complaints about squealing, they will absolutely bother me again if it still squeals. can’t blame a shop for doing the same. And not to say that anyone complaining about squealing is picky, I just mean that brakes are a System, not a single part, and troubleshooting a System can be labor-involved.
 
Depends on the car... mystery car from OP.

Something FWD with $20 rotors I'll throw some rotors on without thought.

Something RWD with integrated bearings, I'll avoid if at all possible. Not just because it's expensive, but they seem to be better made and longer lasting.

I lose rotors because I don't use my brakes hard enough, the slide pins seize, not enough pressure is on a pad to keep them clean, and they rust up on the swept surfaces.

I had a Prius that spent time in preppy Lake George, NY. It got new drums, shoes, and hardware at the dealer, circa 2010, and it was $500. I can do it for $50-60 in parts.
 
Sounds like you don't trust this shop. Why are you going to them then ?
 
Yeah shops choose components to replace not just based upon greed but also they don't want comebacks. People act grateful if you're trying to save them money UNTIL the problem persists and they return wanting the job finished "right."

Either submit to their judgment, find an indy who might work with you and/or be less expensive, or do it yourself if you're not willing to listen to the experts. Many shops will want new rotors, new pads, new brake hoses if they look at all questionable and new calipers if there's the slightest reason to think a piston is sticky. It's not necessarily greed, it's about "best practice" in the industry and not having to explain why you only did the job halfway if problems arise.

I'm NOT saying the OP is unreasonable, but if you want it done "your way" -- whatever that is -- you gotta DIY.
 
You said dealer. Right there means higher price. Find a good small shop you trust. See if you can buy parts and they will install. Rotors are cheap from places like Rock Auto.
Not always. Dealer I go to is often (not always) cheaper on any given item. With OEM parts.
 
The dealer I go to always tries to upsell and my front brakes have been squealing a bit so want them to do my pads before it damages the rotors. I've examined the rotors and they look fine, no scoring, and I have no pulsing or issues with braking.

My question is there anything I should look for ahead of time to tell if I will really need rotors? Any signs of a bad rotor, anything to look for besides cracks and grooves? I just know they're going to tell me I need them and I only want the work done if a truly need it.
One thing that should be done is to check the thickness of the rotors. There's a minimum thickness that's acceptable. Some rotors have the information stamped on them. Should the rotors fall below this minimum, replace them, even i they look to be just.fine
 
The dealer I go to always tries to upsell and my front brakes have been squealing a bit so want them to do my pads before it damages the rotors. I've examined the rotors and they look fine, no scoring, and I have no pulsing or issues with braking.

My question is there anything I should look for ahead of time to tell if I will really need rotors? Any signs of a bad rotor, anything to look for besides cracks and grooves? I just know they're going to tell me I need them and I only want the work done if a truly need it.
They have to be measured with a micrometer and dial indicator.. Chances are if there's a ridge present, they are likely getting thin.. Many times the rotors wear more than the pads because the pads are so hard.. Put new pads on an old rotor with a smooth shiny rotor is likely going to produce noise.They are just trying to do a good job so you won't be back complaining of brake noise or pulsations in a month. Don't assume from the begining they are out to rip you off.
 
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You cannot tell by looking or feeling if the rotors are close to minimum allowed thickness.

The absolute best brake job is new pads and rotors.

Many shops no longer have a machine to turn or resurface the rotors.

To reuse the existing rotors with no machine to turn or resurface them is to wire brush (with a power tool) the surface then grind away any ridge on the rotors where the pads don't hit. But labor for that vs pulling rotors from the parts dept.
 
Here's my rule of thumb: The best way not to get ripped off from a dealer is not to go to a dealer for service, only for warranty work, and an occasional OE part if it can't be sourced anywhere else. When I buy a new car I tell the dealer they can keep the free oil changes too, if they offer them. Flame suit on.................
 
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