2004 Yukon XL does not blow cold air when idling, only when engine is under load. High side is 250psi and low side is 0psi. I installed a new A/C compressor, dryer, and orifice tube about 3 years ago. Could the orifice tube be plugged? What other areas/items should I troubleshoot before opening up the system and replacing the orifice tube?
Troubleshooting A/C in 2004 Yukon XL
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Did you use a Delco A/C Compressor? Low side at 0psi = No compressing.
They like to split, leak and die, along the O ring.
They like to split, leak and die, along the O ring.
I believe it was a 4 seasons compressor, but I will check for certain when I get home. Could it be any other issue besides a bad compressor? It blows ice cold while I’m driving. Yukon isn’t my daily driver, I just use it to tow the boat to the lake or move groups of people when needed.
Did you replace the fan clutch or re use the original? Other than low charge it tells me the compressor isnt creating enough pressure.
From about 2002 forward.....All GMT800's had a Denso compressor instead of the Harrison H6 POS,
The low pressure switch in mere inches away from low side service port on the Accumulator.....It would cut A/C request & not achieve 0 PSI for very long if the system is operating correctly.
How do you figure?
0psi low side and 250psi high side sounds like some compression to me.
I am thinking clogged orifice tube makes sense, although I don't know why the low pressure switch isn't cutting off the compressor. How quickly do the pressures equalize after you shut it off?
Low low-side pressure also sounds like the system could be undercharged.
Disclaimer: I'm not an A/C guy.
On my 05 Yukon XL with dual AC I must rev it up to 1500-2000 to get it to achieve correct readings. I have not replaced anything. Previous owner and me find that it loose a can/yr. Suppose it could be lost in those long hoses.
Tons of reasons why it would retain pressure on the high side. Temperature for one.
Freon doesn't magically escape into a 0 pressure environment.
Oh, I see. Temperature. That would explain it for sure.
Does your Yukon have rear A/C?
Should be around 25 for low.
You could have a blocked office tube, only way to know is pull it out.
Compressor is loading up the high side, and sucking the low side to 0 because there is not enough flow back to the compressor,
That is bad cause for it to be oiled, it needs that flow.
Extremely low refrigerant, the low side will be low, the high side will be lower than normal, and the compressor will cycle off and on.
NOW question is, with 0 PSI on the low side, WHY is the low pressure switch NOT cutting off the compressor?
That makes no sense!
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/why-you-should-never-jump-a-low-pressure-switch/
You could have a blocked office tube, only way to know is pull it out.
Compressor is loading up the high side, and sucking the low side to 0 because there is not enough flow back to the compressor,
That is bad cause for it to be oiled, it needs that flow.
Extremely low refrigerant, the low side will be low, the high side will be lower than normal, and the compressor will cycle off and on.
NOW question is, with 0 PSI on the low side, WHY is the low pressure switch NOT cutting off the compressor?
That makes no sense!
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.com/why-you-should-never-jump-a-low-pressure-switch/
It's not the only way to know - the amount of time it takes the system to equalize after the compressor is turned off can indicate if there's too much (or too little!) restriction.
I wonder if there's a problem with the low side gauge reading... tools or technique
I wonder if there's a problem with the low side gauge reading... tools or technique
You really can't assume his low pressure side should be 25 psi without knowing what his outside ambient temperature is.
ok, it it is real hot the low pressure goes up,
but is never going to 15, not for times when you want the AC to run for cooling.
but is never going to 15, not for times when you want the AC to run for cooling.
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