Troubleshoot this Problem

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North Texas
Hey peeps I’ve got a 8 year old craftsman power washer with on off switch easy start with the Briggs 7.75 engine. I replaced the carb today and was wondering if the arms on the carb are oriented the right way? It started the first time for about 2 mins ran rough and died. Now it won’t start. New plug also installed. What are your thoughts?

The last few years I had to use staring fluid to get it to run. Decided to change the needle valve thinking that was it. It worked a few times then started having the same issue. It gets ran 4-5 times a year and I drain the gas out of the tank and run it dry.

C5E04D43-9035-4488-A128-0F300E10C0BB.jpeg
 
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High Tax Illinois
Tech Tip. Take a picture when doing things like this. I learned the hard way. It "looks" like that is the only way the arms could go. Got gas in tank? Does it have fuel shut off? Is there fuel in the bowl? If it ran then the arms should be right. Good Luck!!!
 

ARB1977

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5,747
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North Texas
Tech Tip. Take a picture when doing things like this. I learned the hard way. It "looks" like that is the only way the arms could go. Got gas in tank? Does it have fuel shut off? Is there fuel in the bowl? If it ran then the arms should be right. Good Luck!!!
Done all that. I’ll keep messing with it. The gas could be old. I did take the ethanol out of the fuel this past spring. That’s a different discussion, lol. May try new gas and see. Before the new carb I took the old one apart it was clean and installed a new needle valve just to make sure.
 

ARB1977

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North Texas
What did it do before the new carb? Does the engine have a low oil switch and have you started it with the gas cap off to see it the vent is clogged? Are you getting spark after it dies? Clogged fuel filter? Gas line problem?
I took the old cab a part. Not gummed up and cleaned it down with carb cleaner. Added a new needle valve just to make sure. After a few runs the card leaked gas. Decided to change the carb. I don’t think there’s a low oil pressure switch. There is no fuel filter. Where’s the vent located? There’s a big hose that attaches to the air filter box that has oil in it. The oil level stays the same. If those have anything to do with each other.
93596369-05C1-4A17-9F65-D7126F690C45.jpeg
 
Messages
772
Location
98245
Hey peeps I’ve got a 8 year old craftsman power washer with on off switch easy start with the Briggs 7.75 engine. I replaced the carb today and was wondering if the arms on the carb are oriented the right way? It started the first time for about 2 mins ran rough and died. Now it won’t start. New plug also installed. What are your thoughts?

The last few years I had to use staring fluid to get it to run. Decided to change the needle valve thinking that was it. It worked a few times then started having the same issue. It gets ran 4-5 times a year and I drain the gas out of the tank and run it dry.
On the left, looks like the intake gasket is broken or incomplete with a gap between it and the carb! Hard to tell from the photo, but if so, the engine is drawing air through that gap instead of through the carb throat, so that needs to be fixed!
 

ARB1977

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North Texas
On the left, looks like the intake gasket is broken or incomplete with a gap between it and the carb! Hard to tell from the photo, but if so, the engine is drawing air through that gap instead of through the carb throat, so that needs to be fixed!
Good catch. I’ll look at it tomorrow. Thanks.
 
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USA
Is the new plug the no-name Chinese one that came with the carb?

That almost looks like the carb is facing backwards, which you'd only be able to do if its completely wrong for the engine. The throttle plate with the stop screw should be closest to the engine. The choke plate which doesn't have a screw would be closer to the air filter.

As for the push rods that looks right, the throttle goes along the side to the governor lever, the choke goes across the top of the cylinder to the bimetal temperature sensing coil near the muffler. Choke plate should be closed when cold and open when warm. Throttle plate should be pulled wide open by the spring when engine is stopped.
 

ARB1977

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5,747
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North Texas
On the left, looks like the intake gasket is broken or incomplete with a gap between it and the carb! Hard to tell from the photo, but if so, the engine is drawing air through that gap instead of through the carb throat, so that needs to be fixed!
I did have two gasket, should of been one.
 

ARB1977

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5,747
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North Texas
Is the new plug the no-name Chinese one that came with the carb?

That almost looks like the carb is facing backwards, which you'd only be able to do if its completely wrong for the engine. The throttle plate with the stop screw should be closest to the engine. The choke plate which doesn't have a screw would be closer to the air filter.

As for the push rods that looks right, the throttle goes along the side to the governor lever, the choke goes across the top of the cylinder to the bimetal temperature sensing coil near the muffler. Choke plate should be closed when cold and open when warm. Throttle plate should be pulled wide open by the spring when engine is stopped.
The plug is a champion plug that came with the carb. I did match up the old carb with the new one and everything looks the same.
 

ARB1977

Thread starter
Messages
5,747
Location
North Texas
Is the new plug the no-name Chinese one that came with the carb?

That almost looks like the carb is facing backwards, which you'd only be able to do if its completely wrong for the engine. The throttle plate with the stop screw should be closest to the engine. The choke plate which doesn't have a screw would be closer to the air filter.

As for the push rods that looks right, the throttle goes along the side to the governor lever, the choke goes across the top of the cylinder to the bimetal temperature sensing coil near the muffler. Choke plate should be closed when cold and open when warm. Throttle plate should be pulled wide open by the spring when engine is stopped.
Here’s a better picture. I did take it back off and removed the fuel bowl just to make sure the float and needle were ok.
496F6E63-5855-4135-8998-565D72AD891A.jpeg
 

ARB1977

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5,747
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North Texas
That's gonna make a huge improvement. A big intake leak like that would make it run way lean, or may not run at all.
I did remove it. Tried again and no luck. I wonder if the gas is bad. It had some two cycle oil in it from my weed eater. I dumped it and tomorrow I’ll try fresh gas and see. I was reading two cycle oil won’t hurt 4 cycle equipment.
 
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772
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98245
I did remove it. Tried again and no luck. I wonder if the gas is bad. It had some two cycle oil in it from my weed eater. I dumped it and tomorrow I’ll try fresh gas and see. I was reading two cycle oil won’t hurt 4 cycle equipment.
Put some fresh gasoline in a hand squirt spray bottle. Remove the air filter to expose the carb throat. Gently spray a squirt directly into the carb throat, then start the engine. Squirt/spray as needed to keep the engine running.

If you can keep the engine running this way, then there's nothing wrong with the engine except the carburetor or gasoline. If you can't, then the engine has problems other than gasoline or carb.
 
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