Trouble with brake bleeder tube staying on bleeder port.

[RockMechMark]

I purchased a Mityvac bleed kit, Model MV8000 to bleed brakes on my vehicles and on a relative's vehicles. I was very disappointed in the tubes and adapters. The manual recommended using an L-shaped rubber fitting to attach to the bleeder port. There were two such fittings in the kit of the same size. I could not get a seal, let alone would it stay attached. I had to hold it in place. Even a zip tie did not help. The manual recommended another option that I have not yet tried. That is, use a hard plastic tapered fitting in the port, pushing and twisting to get a seal. Before I try again, I have seen videos with similar vacuum systems, but not one showed or reported difficulty with the connection to the bleeder port. Any recommendations? What is your experience?

 

[AutoMechanic]

I haven’t used that particular one. I have the one from Harbor Freight and it works amazing and is highly rated so can’t help on this one

 

[JeffKeryk]

They tend to cost more, but the pressure bleeders have worked well for me.
One of the hardest calipers to bleed are the C2 and C3 Corvettes. Impossible to get a pedal.
I finally bought a Motive Bleeder and gained success!

 

[Oro_O]

The MV8000 is a real bottom-line unit. Doesn't even do pressure. I was trying to replace an older mity vac more capable unit that was stolen, and looked a tthis. not the best.

I'm going to be controversial here and say this: if you're system is not actually leaking and full of air, don't open the bleed screws. Just drain and re-fill the reservoir. Do it three times and you'll reduce the system water content down to nil w/o the risk of introducing air to the system via a sloppy screw fitting, or through the screw threads when slightly cracked (which is the real problem).

The MC will mix the fluid as your brake over time, and pure physics and Brownian motion will fully mix the fluid in the system. Tested and shown to work. Low risk, easy, high reward.

This doesn't work for shops who can't call car back in for a 15 minute service once every two or three weeks, but for the DIY'er, it's gold. After you get the system looking good, just do it once a year.

 

[MasterSolenoid]

Look into Tygon Tubing / it's soft and forms a good seal.

Cut it a little longer then needed and occasionally cut 1/4 inch off.

 

[RockMechMark]

The MV8000 is a real bottom-line unit. Doesn't even do pressure. I was trying to replace an older mity vac more capable unit that was stolen, and looked a tthis. not the best.

I'm going to be controversial here and say this: if you're system is not actually leaking and full of air, don't open the bleed screws. Just drain and re-fill the reservoir. Do it three times and you'll reduce the system water content down to nil w/o the risk of introducing air to the system via a sloppy screw fitting, or through the screw threads when slightly cracked (which is the real problem).

The MC will mix the fluid as your brake over time, and pure physics and Brownian motion will fully mix the fluid in the system. Tested and shown to work. Low risk, easy, high reward.

This doesn't work for shops who can't call car back in for a 15 minute service once every two or three weeks, but for the DIY'er, it's gold. After you get the system looking good, just do it once a year.

A long since retired coworker and excellent mechanic once gave me similar advice. Once a year to use a Turkey baster to pull out the reservoir fluid and replace the fluid.

 

[RockMechMark]

Look into Tygon Tubing / it's soft and forms a good seal.

Cut it a little longer then needed and occasionally cut 1/4 inch off.

Look into Tygon Tubing / it's soft and forms a good seal.

Cut it a little longer then needed and occasionally cut 1/4 inch off.

Much appreciated.

 

[ls1mike]

Look into Tygon Tubing / it's soft and forms a good seal.

Cut it a little longer then needed and occasionally cut 1/4 inch off.

It is what I use also. If I can't get a really great seal, I will wrap some Teflon tape around the bleeder nipple than put the Tygon tube over it. Has worked well for me.

 

[X15]

One of my pet peeves is that most if not all automakers long ago switched to metric hoses and fittings, yet aftermarket and parts store stuff is almost exclusivity SAE still and just doesn't fit quite right.

Annoying to say the least.

 

[Yah-Tah-Hey]

Use tygon tubing. Find a size that fits tightly on the bleeder.

 

[svtrit]

A long since retired coworker and excellent mechanic once gave me similar advice. Once a year to use a Turkey baster to pull out the reservoir fluid and replace the fluid.

Thats what I do.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

I thought sucking out most of the brake fluid out of the master and replacing wouldn’t really do anything? The fluid doesn’t get circulated through, correct??

 

[Jetronic]

The MV8000 is a real bottom-line unit. Doesn't even do pressure. I was trying to replace an older mity vac more capable unit that was stolen, and looked a tthis. not the best.

I'm going to be controversial here and say this: if you're system is not actually leaking and full of air, don't open the bleed screws. Just drain and re-fill the reservoir. Do it three times and you'll reduce the system water content down to nil w/o the risk of introducing air to the system via a sloppy screw fitting, or through the screw threads when slightly cracked (which is the real problem).

The MC will mix the fluid as your brake over time, and pure physics and Brownian motion will fully mix the fluid in the system. Tested and shown to work. Low risk, easy, high reward.

This doesn't work for shops who can't call car back in for a 15 minute service once every two or three weeks, but for the DIY'er, it's gold. After you get the system looking good, just do it once a year.

That works if you do it before the brake lines and calipers have started rusting. But by that time no bleeding is going to work anymore as any rust or oxidation byproducts will just migrate to the lowest point and stay there. Rebuild time....

 

[Jetronic]

I thought sucking out most of the brake fluid out of the master and replacing wouldn’t really do anything? The fluid doesn’t get circulated through, correct??

The water in the brake fluid circulates. Do a drain and fill and sometimes within minutes the new fluid turns dark again...

 

[02zx9r rev2]

So then replacing the fluid in just the master cylinder is a waste of time then?? No point in wasting time and fluid, just wait until flushing at the bleeder?? Just asking so I will know

The water in the brake fluid circulates. Do a drain and fill and sometimes within minutes the new fluid turns dark again...

 

[Jetronic]

no it works if done preventative. not curatif.

 

[Oro_O]

That works if you do it before the brake lines and calipers have started rusting. But by that time no bleeding is going to work anymore as any rust or oxidation byproducts will just migrate to the lowest point and stay there. Rebuild time....

Then you are talking about massive system failure internally, not just changing fluid.

OP didn't ask about an internally ruined brake system, just general maintenance.

no it works if done preventative. not curatif.

Yes, exactly ("curative...")

 

[Jetronic]

it will lead to massive failure, but usually the owner thinks everything is just fine with his brakes up to that point...