Trouble Choosing Oil

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Aug 17, 2013
Messages
44
Location
Upstate, NY
I am new to BITOG. This is my first post. I have often wondered which oil was best for my vehicles. In the past I relied on the recommendations of a friend But as time has gone on I have attempted to educate myself on what all of these products are really about. And so my journey in oil analysis has begun. But after researching oil products on manufacturers sites, reading specs and descriptions, reading independent reports, reading posts on BITOG and discussing oil with parts store employees, friends and mechanics I am at a point of Paralysis By Analysis. I find myself just as confused now as when I started. At this point I am getting answers like "at the end of the day you can't go wrong either way..." or "It's really up to you..."

I own two vehicles. A 2004 Honda Accord EX 4cyl with 125K miles and a 1994 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon V8 with 85K miles. I have been using Mobil 1 synthetic, 5w20 for the Honda and 5w30 for the Buick, for a few years now. In a recent conversation with my mechanic he recommended that I stick with the synthetic but said that I should be using a High Mileage oil. So I looked at the other oils that Mobil offered. When comparing features and specs of M1 High Mileage versus M1 EP and M1 synthetic I didn't feel like it was necessarily the best oil for what I read was important. The VI was a bit lower then the other oils I was reading about and it didn't seem that it was the best oil for cold starts. As I continued to research I came across an independent report posted on the AMSOil website that tested 7 oils in several different ways. And while, as I suspected, AMSoil was top rated in almost every category I noticed that Valvoline SynPower also out performed M1 EP in almost every category. As AMSOil is well out of my price range I started looking at Valvoline and trying to take my mechanics recommendations, I focused on Max Life. But unfortunately there isnt a 5w20 MaxLife and so I can't use it in my Honda. All the VIs and specs of these oils seemed to be very close. My understanding is that the additive packages are what differentiates these products and while I often hear people say they like one additive package over another, I don't understand how to evaluate them. I apologize if this is too long and confusing but I will sum up and get to my question.

How do I pick the highest quality oil that has the right additive package for my needs? I felt like MaxLife may be the better choice, but it isn't made for my Honda. SynPower isn't really considered a high mileage oil but I read that it performed better then M1 EP. My mechanic recommended M1 HM. And now to add to my confusion, I started reading about 0w20 and 0w30 oils, which seem from the specs I have read, to be very high quality oils.

Again, sorry if this is too long or confusing but I am kind of stuck. Any advice would be appreciated.
 
WELCOME TO BITOG!!! For your Accord 2.4 I would recommend Pennzoil Platinum 0w20, thats what I am running in mine now and its quiet and smooth. Readily available also. For the Buick, maybe Pennzoil Yellow Bottle 5w30, If you want to run synthetic in that, then Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30. Also, you DO NOT need a high mileage oil.
 
Last edited:
Your Buick might benefit from a HM oil, but I doubt the Honda will - unless it uses oil between changes.

Unless you want Mobil's 15k warranty, I think you would be better served by using either regular M1 or AFE rather than M1 EP. Also, you shouldn't put too much faith in Amsoil's marketing: all the major motor oils have their strengths and weaknesses.

0w-20 is the better viscosity to use in the Honda.
 
You can not analyze every oil out there, you should narrow the field to 2 or 3 oils and i would say two. Mobil or pennzoil. You said you wanted the best oil, that means synthetic. Pennzoil has PP a very good synthetic oil that comes in all popular weights but not in HM.

Mobil 1 is synthetic and has many offerings in many weights, HM EP AFE. You were already using Mobil 1 so i assume the price point was OK. That leaves you to determine the type of oil.

Use HM oil if you are consuming oil, or have an engine that needs more ZDDP.

Use EP if you want very long drain intervals, 10 to 15K miles.

Use AFE if you are mostly concerned with fuel economy and willing to see if a 0W oil is a problem with your engine. Mobil says 0W OK for 5W applications but some people report 0W in there engine uses more oil.
 
Originally Posted By: daves87rs
Any syn will work fine for those needs....


Probably, but that isn't what this forum is about...
 
welcome2.gif



Unless you are leaking oil, there is no need for a HM formulation.

You've analyzed oils and found Valvoline to be better than M1. So go ahead and go with that, do a couple of UOAs, at a 5000 mile interval and see how it is performing in your engines.
 
It sounds like your vehicles are well maintained and running well.

I predict that it will make no difference what oil you run so long as you choose something that is in spec.

One way to establish that you technically have the best oil is to find all the oils that meet your spec and grade requirements and then see which of those oils has the most manufacturer and ACEA approvals / standards.

But I would just pick what you feel like trying / what you can get for the least cost, and spend your time learning other topics that might help the longevity of your vehicle eg how to look after your transmission and other parts that wear out earlier than engines.

Since most oils won't make a longevity difference, cycle through different oils to see if they make a difference to your butt dino. By all means try a 0w oil to see what happens this winter. Try different high mileage oils.

INCLUDING Maxlife 5w20 which does exist as a syn blend (check Walmart)
 
Thank you for all of the advice. After all of my research I was definitely leaning towards M1 AFE for the Honda. But I was a little concerned about taking the leap to 0w20. Am I correct that the benefit would be getting up to viscosity from a cold start? I thought it would be a good choice for me based on my location in Upstate NY and the cold winter ahead. Is M1 AFE 0w30 not as beneficial for the Buick?

I don't believe the Buick is consuming oil, but I notice a bit of seepage underneath when I am changing the oil.

As far as the price point is concerned, M1 and Valvoline have been the best as the full synth has been at most $25 for 5 qt jugs at Walmart, and it seems they are alternating the roll back price of $22.99 for the 5qt between the 2 brands. Last month was M1, this month its Valvoline. Had not considered Pennzoil but I will look into it.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: askani79705
PP 0w20 in the Honda
And your mechanic isn't giving bad advice M1 HM is a fine oil.



I agree. M1 AFE VI is 23 points higher then that of M1 HM. Thats what caught my attention. And I haven't found many oils in 5w20 that have VI in the 170s...I noticed that more in 5w30s.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
It sounds like your vehicles are well maintained and running well.

I predict that it will make no difference what oil you run so long as you choose something that is in spec.

One way to establish that you technically have the best oil is to find all the oils that meet your spec and grade requirements and then see which of those oils has the most manufacturer and ACEA approvals / standards.

But I would just pick what you feel like trying / what you can get for the least cost, and spend your time learning other topics that might help the longevity of your vehicle eg how to look after your transmission and other parts that wear out earlier than engines.

Since most oils won't make a longevity difference, cycle through different oils to see if they make a difference to your butt dino. By all means try a 0w oil to see what happens this winter. Try different high mileage oils.

INCLUDING Maxlife 5w20 which does exist as a syn blend (check Walmart)



Yes, I noticed the synthetic blend MaxLife. I was interested in full syn as Valvoline states its the same synthetic base as SynPower with a different additive package. Is there any truth to some of the claims that the seal conditioners work on older cars that have leaks or seepage?
 
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Unless you are leaking oil, there is no need for a HM formulation.


Disagree, the HM oils generally have better additives (anti-wear and cleaning)

The Focus in my sig has 105K miles, runs like new, doesn't leak a drop. M1 HM was priced the same as reg so for me it was a no brainer. I do the same with Defy in my wifes Caravan (70K miles)
 
Welcome to BITOG! I noticed you said that the Buick has some seepage, and if that bothers you, you may want to try a high mileage. If you want to stick with synthetic, either M1 HM or Valvoline Maxlife syn would be great choices. I have used regular maxlife in several oil dripping vehicles with excellent results.
 
I'd look at it this way:
Since you have used M1 for your vehicles, you are still covered by their guarantee, which covers problems directly caused by the lubricant (like what?). Pennzoil has a better warranty (15 parts covered) but you must enroll before 60K.

Most of the high quality synthetics are good for 1 yr or 10K miles (like M1 AFE, PP). M1 EP is good for 1 yr or 15K

At my local walmart, M1 0w-20 AFE was $25, PP 0w-20 was $25, and M1 5w-20 EP was $28. PP has a $10 rebate.

For the Honda:

Add $10 for an extended life filter and $15 for labor and your oil change costs $40 (PP) to $53 (EP) plus your time waiting for your oil change.

If you drive < 12.5K/yr, go with PP (cheaper)
If you drive > 12.5K/yr go with EP

If you want to stick with Mobil products:

If you drive < 10K/yr, go with AFE
If you drive > 10K/yr go with EP

For the Buick: I'd definitely go with the HM oil. Since you average only 4K per year/ annual oil change, any HM oil will be fine. If you are towing or make primarily short trips, I'd lean toward the M1 HM.
 
I am always worried when someone says their mechanic recommends XXX oil. They often have very little knowledge on oil itself.

For the honda - 0w20 AFE would work fine.

For the Buick - 5w30 M1 HM if you have some leaks. If not vanilla M1 would work fine.

You can switch out M1 for any other quality brand if you would like. PP/M1/QSUD/Synpower are all great oils.
 
I record a coupon from the local Honda dealer for an oil change using 0w20. I called to inquire as to if it applies to my vehicle. He said Honda says 0w20 is Acceptable. He didnt say it was recommended.

Honda 0w20 is Full synthetic for $7.65 per quart. Doesn't anyone have experience with this oil?

He also mentioned if I were to go in for an oil change it would be a synth blend, not full synth.
 
Originally Posted By: Valueline
Thank you for all of the advice. After all of my research I was definitely leaning towards M1 AFE for the Honda. But I was a little concerned about taking the leap to 0w20. Am I correct that the benefit would be getting up to viscosity from a cold start? I thought it would be a good choice for me based on my location in Upstate NY and the cold winter ahead. Is M1 AFE 0w30 not as beneficial for the Buick?


The benefit of going to a 0w20 would be in the cold weather start, and the Winter rating of 0w doesn't affect the viscosity of 20W at operating temperatures. Your engine will be better protected at start and the first cold moments of running.

Likewise 0w30 for the Buick will be more beneficial in very cold weather. In any other circumstances the 5w-30 will work just as well.
 
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: Valueline
Thank you for all of the advice. After all of my research I was definitely leaning towards M1 AFE for the Honda. But I was a little concerned about taking the leap to 0w20. Am I correct that the benefit would be getting up to viscosity from a cold start? I thought it would be a good choice for me based on my location in Upstate NY and the cold winter ahead. Is M1 AFE 0w30 not as beneficial for the Buick?


The benefit of going to a 0w20 would be in the cold weather start, and the Winter rating of 0w doesn't affect the viscosity of 20W at operating temperatures. Your engine will be better protected at start and the first cold moments of running.

Likewise 0w30 for the Buick will be more beneficial in very cold weather. In any other circumstances the 5w-30 will work just as well.


Should I be concerned that Honda says 0w20 in "Acceptable" instead of "Recommended" for my vehicle?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top