travel trailer wheel bearing grease

[spasm3]

Next spring i plan to take apart my dexter ez-lube axles and check the bearings. Its an 05 model ( owned since new) and i have never disassembled them. I have greased them every year and again before long trips. I feel its time to take them apart and check the bearings and put in new double lip seals.

Since i will be cleaning them completely, i can use whatever grease i want. Its always had lithium complex per dexter. I have always used valvoline durablend. I'm thinking about schaeffer's grease.

I'd like to stay with an nlgi grade 2 gc. Any other brands that you would consider?

Thanks

 

[Billbert]

U have always gotten excellent results with the durables grease. Just keep using it.

 

[Donald]

How have you been greasing the bearings all these years without taking things apart?

 

[Rudy1999 250]

TRC Texas Refinery has a grease (Paragon 3000) if you are impressed with schaeffer you will love this stuff. Its very compatible with every grease.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by Donald
How have you been greasing the bearings all these years without taking things apart?



Its a dexter E-Z- lube axle, not to be confused with bearing buddies. The dexter axle lubes the inner and outer bearings with a grease nipple. Its old enough now that i want to inspect the brakes as well as the bearings, and replace the E-Z- lube seals to keep grease out of the brakes.


I can't figure out how to load a pic now.

https://cdn7.bigcommerce.com/s-2wzi...07/1184/ezlube__40315.1515275667.jpg?c=2

 

[tig1]

M1 Grease is outstanding for re-packable bearings. I have used it for many years in my trailer bearings and the hubs always stay cool, even with loads on the trailer. Be sure to clean out the old grease completely before re-packing.

 

[Donald]

You need a grease that says for high speed wheel bearings. They use to have chassis grease and wheel bearing grease. But that was ages ago. You could use the marine grease thats sold for boat trailer wheel bearings,

You will need to soak the bearings in a solvent to remove old grease. Then carefully inspect the actual rollers. They should look pristine, no rust, pitting or scratch marks. Any bearings replaced should have the race replaced also.

 

[sloinker]

I say use a grease that is approved for the application and leaves long strings of grease when a wad of it is broken apart. Like taffy when you pull it. I also like moly in my grease as a personal preference. Thoroughly hand pack the new/old bearings and fill all the voids when reinstalling so that you jettison excess grease when re-assembling.

 

[BrianF]

I have used Mobil 1 synthetic red grease, Chevron Duralith #1 and recently, Amsoil purple lithium. All worked great in the Dexter 7K on my 5 horse. I pulled them apart last year when putting new backing plates on. The seals were perfect, as were the races and bearings. I wiped it all down and repacked using that Amsoil and have used it since.

I check the hubs after long highway runs and they are barely warm.

 

[claluja]

Use amsoil marine grease (blue in color) in my dexters (but I dunk in saltwater alot, and tow about 6 or 7K miles per year). Works great.

Btw, you may want to just replace the hubs (which typically come with bearings) so you dont have to deal with putting races back in which is a pita.

 

[Ken2]

Dexter E-Z Lube: https://youtu.be/XT0RKDGgDm8

All the greases mentioned will do great. There is no magical one-is-best grease. I really like Schaeffer products. Schaeffer greases are aluminum complex base, not lithium base, but they are compatible and work even better. Keep in mind that the base (the thickener) in some greases may not be compatible with some other bases--incompatible bases must not be mixed. Some waterproof boat trailer greases are incompatible. You must not switch bases once you start using one that is not compatible with others.

You will need to buy new Dexter E-Z lube seals. These double lip seals are important. When you slowly pump grease into the fitting the grease goes down the passage, pushes against the seal, turns around, and goes through the inner bearing, the hub center, the outer bearing, and out the vent. If the seal doesn't hold, you'll pump grease right on to the brakes.

With all wheel bearings--keep used cones and cups (races) matched when you clean & replace the bearings. If the rollers need replacement, put in new cups as well. Buy any good name brand, not no-name Chinese bearings. Here's the Timken instructions for installing wheel bearings: https://www.timken.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/MDV16-Wheel-Bearing-Replacement.pdf
This is for a medium duty truck--I can't find page 2 of the instructions for a light duty vehicle. They're about the same. Torque specs are for setting the bearings, NOT for the final assembly. The bearings need to be correctly pre-loosened...001" to .005" of axial end play.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted by claluja
Use amsoil marine grease (blue in color) in my dexters (but I dunk in saltwater alot, and tow about 6 or 7K miles per year). Works great.

Btw, you may want to just replace the hubs (which typically come with bearings) so you dont have to deal with putting races back in which is a pita.



I'll see what is cost effective. Depends on the condition of the brake drums. i have press for bearings. I probably will delay this till spring, as i just don't have time now. But i do need to check the brakes, bearings and new grease seals as mentioned above.