Trasko oil filter-Is it worth it?

[Dually]

I'm thinking of going for it but I need some input from people who have one of these units.Thanks Joe

 

[Cup of Joe]

What exactly do you want to know? I have the new SS model now that is stailess steel with a built in magnet but it only comes in the smallest size. I've had the regular unit and I will probably buy yet another to use as a bypass for my tractor. If you are interested in the filters performance my last UOA I had a partical count performed and I am going to have a partical count done on my next 10k mile UOA when I change the roll. Previous filter was a EAO with a filtermag.

 

[SWHeat]

I think they have their place. It depends totally on the application. The biggest Trasko is about 1/3 to 1/2 the size of a Motor-Guard filter (standard TP) that in a 4 cylinder engine would require 4K changes (per Frank). Trasko claims 10K, no way given its small size. I have one on my Prizm/Corolla transmission and ran it 25K and it could have gone further as it was only black 3/4 of the way down the element. So for a transmission, I think they are superb. I will probably buy one for my grand caravan when I get around to changing out the transmission fluid to Amsoil sometime this summer (needs an A/C compressor first). I have it plumbed with a permacool mount with a Baldwin B2-HPG for now and the Largest Trasko will fit as I checked it out when I was plumbing it. I may try one on the oil of the Grand Caravan as there is little room to put a MG, but am still leaning toward the MG heavily (may just lay it in a box on top of some hoses) given its larger size and 3-4K TP replacement schedule. First project up is a MG for the Prizm/Corolla after the A/C replacement. Time, I need much more time (AND MONEY). I would have had the MG in a couple of years ago, just no time to tinker when big items come up like tranny replacements and the like.

 

[Steve S]

What real life gains would you expect out of the filter?

 

[unDummy]

The Trasko will filter the fluid :-) Trasko adds a bypass built into the full flow filter. Even though it is small, it should work well enough and last long enough in an ATF circuit. It should have no problem going 10k filtering oil in a well running modern vehicle. Many vehicles already have 10k OCIs using normal full flow filters. I would think that it should last 30k in a ATF or PSF circuit. The Trasko is also 'bling'. It is a perfect replacement for those PH8a sized remote engine oil and ATF filter kits. Ford for a while used a 'bypass filter' in their trannies requiring Mercon-SP. The fluid needed an iso cleanliness rating for proper shifts. I've installed regular full flow filters and after a couple days, the shift quality of old ATF improved. Never underestimate the benefits of filtration.

 

[slalom44]

I was using a Trasko on my wife's Toyota Highlander (now my second vehicle)and I was doing 10,000 mile OCIs for a while. I stopped using it after a while when I noticed the deflector plate under the oil filler cap was accumulating some carbon deposits - when I scraped it with my fingernail, a black deposit scraped off with a charcoal texture. I got nervous and switched to Napa Golds or Amsoil filters. I can't say that it was the Trasko filter's fault because I was using cut-up rolls of toilet paper instead of paying $10 a pop for their filters. At that price, I wasn't saving any money and based on the UOAs I've seen with this filter, I wasn't convinced that the Trasko would extend my engine life a significant amount. My Highlander now has 121,000 miles, and about half of those miles were with the Trasko. The engine runs great and doesn't burn a drop of oil. I've gone to 5,000 mile OCIs for the last 40k miles since using the Trasko and the deposits aren't there anymore.

 

[4.8 Silverado]

Have not been here for awhile as my truck is on autopilot right now.Still using Trascos on the engine and remote trans filter adapter.12k oil changes are the norm per baseline UOA`s with 5/40 Rotella T Syn. Mobil 1 ATF syn in the tranny with 170K on it.The tranny filter is golden.I change the filter element every 20k and it shifts smoother right away.As far as the engine is concerned it does not burn any oil/make noise.Seems to work fine and it is nice to examine the element to see whats going on during the changeouts.Have not had a UOA since getting my baseline 4 years ago.Just putting this out here if anyone is interested in Trascos.

 

[Gary Allan]

What? A BITOG'r who said, "Well, that's it! I'm finished!" No. It can't be. Congrats on breaking out of here and finding something to settle on. I'm still trying to re-invent the wheel.

 

[keith]

My 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan has been running a Trasko for maybe 150K miles, and just crossed 204K total. The engine runs like new. I did change the plugs and wires once at 140K miles! The tranny shifts great - running ATF+4 with an external cooler and filter. I have nothing but good things to say about that van, and the Trasko. [... and the van is about to go to Clunker heaven, because of rust in the shock towers, and other body issues]

 

[Gary Allan]

I always wanted to acquire a Trasko to add to my collection. I've already got too many filters that I'll never be able to hang on anything. I just parted with my vintage NOS Frantz as a token gift to a friend since I have an MG that's waiting for an excuse. I find them a novel filter. I'd just have to figure a way to trump the smaller tp section for costs.

 

[Ducked]

I'll be in Tokyo at the weekend, and might look for one of these, but, based on the description (and cross section diagram) on their website I'm unsure of a few points. http://www.trasko-usa.com/faq/faq.htm 1. How often is it likely to be in their "bypass mode"? (I'll call it semi-bypass. I'm using bypass here in the sense that the flow bypasses the restrictive filter, as happens in a conventional filter when its very cold) They say it goes into semi-bypass at between 8 and 16 psi at the internal relief valve. That's presumably a pressure differential across the relief valve, rather than an absolute pressure, since if it were an absolute pressure it'd be in semi-bypass all the time (but then maybe it is.) Assuming it is a differential, I don't know how often that's likely to happen. I suppose it'll depend on the downstream resistance to flow in bearings etc. 2. How well is it likely to work in semi-bypass? They claim retention of 8-10 micron particles, based on a stainless steel mesh with holes that big, BUT (a) The mesh doesn't seem to have a lot of area. (no pleats) (b) There is presumably no depth-filtration effect from the mesh, as there is with a conventional paper filter. This makes it seem likely to clog pretty quickly. 3. What happens if/when the mesh clogs? Is there a real/full bypass mode? (I'd hope/assume so. I THINK most cars have this external to the filter, otherwise you'd be reliant on flow through the paper depth media which in this filter is probably quite restrictive, and the engine might die.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted By: Ducked

I'll be in Tokyo at the weekend, and might look for one of these, but, based on the description (and cross section diagram) on their website I'm unsure of a few points. http://www.trasko-usa.com/faq/faq.htm 1. How often is it likely to be in their "bypass mode"? (I'll call it semi-bypass. I'm using bypass here in the sense that the flow bypasses the restrictive filter, as happens in a conventional filter when its very cold) They say it goes into semi-bypass at between 8 and 16 psi at the internal relief valve. That's presumably a pressure differential across the relief valve, rather than an absolute pressure, since if it were an absolute pressure it'd be in semi-bypass all the time (but then maybe it is.) Assuming it is a differential, I don't know how often that's likely to happen. I suppose it'll depend on the downstream resistance to flow in bearings etc. 2. How well is it likely to work in semi-bypass? They claim retention of 8-10 micron particles, based on a stainless steel mesh with holes that big, BUT (a) The mesh doesn't seem to have a lot of area. (no pleats) (b) There is presumably no depth-filtration effect from the mesh, as there is with a conventional paper filter. This makes it seem likely to clog pretty quickly. 3. What happens if/when the mesh clogs? Is there a real/full bypass mode? (I'd hope/assume so. I THINK most cars have this external to the filter, otherwise you'd be reliant on flow through the paper depth media which in this filter is probably quite restrictive, and the engine might die.

My understanding of the thing is that its basically always bypassing and the media flows at x (x being much less than fulll flow) Because its always bypassing the mesh is needed as a gross screen. I would only use it as a bypass filter on a dual head or in line feed, vs using it as a primary single stage filter. UD

 

[Ducked]

Originally Posted By: UncleDave

Originally Posted By: Ducked

I'll be in Tokyo at the weekend, and might look for one of these, but, based on the description (and cross section diagram) on their website I'm unsure of a few points. http://www.trasko-usa.com/faq/faq.htm 1. How often is it likely to be in their "bypass mode"? (I'll call it semi-bypass. I'm using bypass here in the sense that the flow bypasses the restrictive filter, as happens in a conventional filter when its very cold) They say it goes into semi-bypass at between 8 and 16 psi at the internal relief valve. That's presumably a pressure differential across the relief valve, rather than an absolute pressure, since if it were an absolute pressure it'd be in semi-bypass all the time (but then maybe it is.) Assuming it is a differential, I don't know how often that's likely to happen. I suppose it'll depend on the downstream resistance to flow in bearings etc. 2. How well is it likely to work in semi-bypass? They claim retention of 8-10 micron particles, based on a stainless steel mesh with holes that big, BUT (a) The mesh doesn't seem to have a lot of area. (no pleats) (b) There is presumably no depth-filtration effect from the mesh, as there is with a conventional paper filter. This makes it seem likely to clog pretty quickly. 3. What happens if/when the mesh clogs? Is there a real/full bypass mode? (I'd hope/assume so. I THINK most cars have this external to the filter, otherwise you'd be reliant on flow through the paper depth media which in this filter is probably quite restrictive, and the engine might die.

My understanding of the thing is that its basically always bypassing and the media flows at x (x being much less than fulll flow) Because its always bypassing the mesh is needed as a gross screen. I would only use it as a bypass filter on a dual head or in line feed, vs using it as a primary single stage filter. UD

That's what I got from the description too, though the claim of 10 micron filtration and the phrase "gross screen" aren't really compatible, causing me to doubt the former. Didn't have time to look for one this trip anyway, and, given the above conclusion, perhaps I won't bother in the future.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted By: Ducked

Originally Posted By: UncleDave

Originally Posted By: Ducked

I'll be in Tokyo at the weekend, and might look for one of these, but, based on the description (and cross section diagram) on their website I'm unsure of a few points. http://www.trasko-usa.com/faq/faq.htm 1. How often is it likely to be in their "bypass mode"? (I'll call it semi-bypass. I'm using bypass here in the sense that the flow bypasses the restrictive filter, as happens in a conventional filter when its very cold) They say it goes into semi-bypass at between 8 and 16 psi at the internal relief valve. That's presumably a pressure differential across the relief valve, rather than an absolute pressure, since if it were an absolute pressure it'd be in semi-bypass all the time (but then maybe it is.) Assuming it is a differential, I don't know how often that's likely to happen. I suppose it'll depend on the downstream resistance to flow in bearings etc. 2. How well is it likely to work in semi-bypass? They claim retention of 8-10 micron particles, based on a stainless steel mesh with holes that big, BUT (a) The mesh doesn't seem to have a lot of area. (no pleats) (b) There is presumably no depth-filtration effect from the mesh, as there is with a conventional paper filter. This makes it seem likely to clog pretty quickly. 3. What happens if/when the mesh clogs? Is there a real/full bypass mode? (I'd hope/assume so. I THINK most cars have this external to the filter, otherwise you'd be reliant on flow through the paper depth media which in this filter is probably quite restrictive, and the engine might die.

My understanding of the thing is that its basically always bypassing and the media flows at x (x being much less than fulll flow) Because its always bypassing the mesh is needed as a gross screen. I would only use it as a bypass filter on a dual head or in line feed, vs using it as a primary single stage filter. UD

That's what I got from the description too, though the claim of 10 micron filtration and the phrase "gross screen" aren't really compatible, causing me to doubt the former. Didn't have time to look for one this trip anyway, and, given the above conclusion, perhaps I won't bother in the future.

I think they actually say 8-10 which certainly isn't gross for a full flow filter. Gross as compared to the medias claim of less than a micron. UD