Trasko filter and Scotts TP

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Well, call me cheap but I just couldn't bring myself to pay $10 for TP. So I bought a roll of the Scotts TP. Under a microscope it's not as dense as the Trasko stuff and its not nearly as tight on the roll either but I wanted to try it. First I trimed it to about the right diameter, I left it larger because it wasn't as tight as Trasko. Then I put it on a 1 3/8" rod that put on my wood lathe. Using a 4" razor kife (box cutter with break off blades) I turned & sliced it to the proper length. Took all of 5 minutes. Shoved it into the trasko can (much tigher fit than trasko) and put it on the car and added a quart of oil. So far after 1500 miles the oil hasn't changed in color, its still the amber brown and most of the oil now has 7500miles on it. For now I'll jsut keep the spare roll of Trasko TP as a guide for making new rolls of TP from Scotts.
 
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I normally use a smaller roll than Scott 1000. I use the Scott Kimberly Clark. It doesn't matter as long as it is a tight roll. The big Fleetguard LF-750 housings are going to take about three rolls of Scott 1000 rolled to make an element about 7 1/2" wide. I just put them on the kitchen table and roll them together. Then I roll two rolls of Kleenex Viva together and rtv them together. That makes a very large element. The Fleetguard element is a little shorter but I can push down on the element and get the threads started. Just shop around and find the firmest roll you can find. What you want is the most paper for the money. You can get some polypropylene box sealing tape and wrap it tightly around the roll so that a larger roll won't pinch in the gasket. The polypropylene tape won't melt. The old Motor Guard M-100 had a lip that pulled in the paper just before the halves came together. They didn't put the lip in the M-30 because the Motor Guard element is a lot stiffer than TP. Motor Guard knows that a lot of people cheat and use TP in the compressed air filters. The origional compressed air filters were designed for TP. Ralph [Burnout]
 
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Ralph, How do you put tight TP into MG-30 bypass filter? I read your post regarding about the polypropylene tape wrap around the TP and put in the MG-30. Sound like, it is easiest way insert inside the MG-30 chamber? My friend removed 50 sheet (950 sheets) from the Scott 1000 ply sheets then struggle to insert the TP into the MG-30 chamber. Is that ok and I am not sure if it is going be ok being tightly inside the chamber of the MG-30.
 
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Schultz , Congrats on being the Guinea pig.If it works I will do the same thing and just change it out more frequently that 10k.Keep us Trasco users aware of your progress,Good luck!
 
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I am going to try toilet paper at the next change. $10 for a Trasko roll is plain silly. At my last change the mesh screen had picked up a lot of very small grit. Wonder where that comes from or what it is? The filter roll is still draining in my catch pan. Going to cut it up and put it under my kids microscope.
 

mjo

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Did you know that Kimberly-Clark makes a scott single ply 1500-sheet-per-roll tp? Ralph mentioned this once. I haven't been able to find this at any store. Here's a link: Scott 1500
 
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mjo, I thought Kimberly-Clark Scott 1000 sheet 1 ply TP? My friend used Scott 1000 1 ply sheet from Grocery store that how his Honda got lot clean. Ralph uses 1000 1 ply sheet TP not 1500? I am confused.
 
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Keith, Right, It happened to me too. I have Trasko and the mesh sure picked some fragment and I swear, it was metal fragment. BITOG members said it probably just carboned object. [I dont know]
 

Schultz

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quote:
Did you know that Kimberly-Clark makes a Scott single ply 1500-sheet-per-roll tp? Ralph mentioned this once. I haven't been able to find this at any store.
Can't remember if I used the 1500 or 1000. I first tried the 4 pack Scotts, but the core was too large, so that went to the house (wife didn't like it). Then I saw Ralph say the individually packaged rolls have 1 3/8"(?) size cores which matched the Trasko size. I had to search a few grocery stores to find it though.
quote:
At my last change, the mesh screen had picked up a lot of very small grit.
Mine too; I was wondering what it was. It felt like sand grit at first, there were only three or four. It was black and would crumble, so it wasn't sand, probably just carbon as someone mentioned.
 
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Thanks for posting, Schultz. A while ago when I suggested cutting up a roll of toilet paper like you did, I got some negative feedback. I never did put a cut-up roll of TP in my Trasko but I did make one up. I took a roll of TP and rerolled it on an empty tube as tight as I could without tearing it. When I got it to the right diameter for the Trasko, I stopped and used a razor knife to cut it to size. You'd be amazed at how much tighter you can roll up TP, but it is truly meticulous work.
 
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The element isn't supposed to be tight in a Motor Guard. The element should slide in easily. The tee handle compreses the element into the tapered housing halves and makes it expand inside the housing. The paper I use needs to be unrolled 10 rounds to make it 4 1/4" diameter. I would rather not unroll any paper. To avoid unrolling the ten rounds I can wrap the full roll with a round of 3-M Tartan 3690 box sealing tape. It is about 2" wide. That keeps it from expanding and pinching in the gasket causing a slow leak. The important seal in the Motor Guard is inside the core at the bottom and the outside top of the TP when filtering from the bottom up. For motor oil it dosn't matter if some of the oil filters from the outside to the center. When filtering from the top down as the filter is labeled the important seal is at the bottom inside the core and the bottom outside of the TP. The M-30 will filter either direction. The old M-100 could only filter from the bottom up. The only advantage to filtering from the bottom up is you don't have oil trapped on top of the element when changing the filter. If the filter drains good at shut down it doesn't matter. The company I work for has gone to Kleenex Cottonelle which is too fluffy for the Motor Guard but I am using it by wrapping it with the Tartan tape. The Caterpillar engines are propane and are very good for testing filters. All you see in the white TP is wear metals similar to transmisssion filtering. The hours pile up fast. The Caterpiller mechanic sticks a knife blade in and pushes the loose paper in just before the halves come together. I am working on a filter with copper internal parts. There will be a small amount of 2024 -T4 aluminum alloy. I will start testing them when the alloy washers get in. Ralph [Burnout]
 

mjo

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quote:
mjo, I thought Kimberly-Clark Scott 1000 sheet 1 ply TP? My friend used Scott 1000 1 ply sheet from Grocery store that how his Honda got lot clean. Ralph uses 1000 1 ply sheet TP not 1500? I am confused.
I also use Scott 1000 that I got from Kmart. A Scott 1500 would be the same size, just wound even tighter and denser than the 1000. It would make for better bypass filtration IMHO. Mark
 

Schultz

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quote:
I never did put a cut-up roll of TP in my Trasko but I did make one up. I took a roll of TP and rerolled it on an empty tube as tight as I could without tearing it. When I got it to the right diameter for the Trasko, I stopped and used a razor knife to cut it to size. You'd be amazed at how much tighter you can roll up TP, but it is truly meticulous work.
You just gave me an idea to try next. Maybe next time I'll try and wind up a glass micro fiber roll on some core either plastic or cardboard. I've got sample rolls of GMF at my disposal, I would have to slit it to width, but no big deal. Heck I've thrown out master rolls of the stuff, which would have worked great for what I want to do and made a few thousand filters. The only drawback I see so far is I may not be able to get it that tight, but maybe a backed type or a celluose/glass blend.
 

Schultz

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Well I hit the 10k mark with the Trasko. The oil is still lighter in color than with just a full flow filter after 5k miles, but it has gotten darker from 5k to 10k. This time (@5k mi) I used a cut down roll of scotts TP. It seemed to swell more than the trasko. I swear when I put it in it was the same length as the trasko but when I took it out it was about 3/16" longer than the trasko. The oil is now a dark brown and still feels the same, I know its all qualitativie, but I'm going to wait until 15k for the analysis. This time I put a trasko TP filter back in. I cut down a scotts indivually wrapped tp which worked last time and I had it ready to go, but when I went to put it in noticed it was 1.5" ID and not 1 3/8" ID. I'll have to bring a ruler with me to the store next time. The Scotts stuff is definatly not wound as tight, maybe thats why my oil is a lot darker. From 1-5k there wasn't much color difference, then from 5-10k it got a lot darker, but it's not what I would call black yet. I made the scotts roll slightly larger in diameter than the trasko so it was definatly compressed more on the diameter. Do you think there was more channeling on the scotts?
 
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Schultz: If you get a UOA with a cut-up roll of toilet paper, please post it here. I'm thinking of doing the same thing you're doing, and your comments are really helpful. I'm at 9000 miles on a Trasko insert, and I've noticed that my oil is getting darker too. Since soot is sub-micronic, I'm not sure that you can make any conclusion based on color. The swelling is interesting. Could this possibly be caused by some moisture absorption? Do other TP bypass filter users notice any swelling?
 
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I have also been using the cut down rolls of Scotts T.P. Right now I have 10 rolls ready to go.Someone had posted that you just take a marker and outline the Trasco filter on the side of the Scotts roll and then just use it in your bathroom until it is the right size.It worked great for me.I have been making my filters a little bigger so they fit tighter in the cannister.It is working because when I do the 7.5k changeouts there are more dirt particles towards the top of the filter.I have been reusing the O Rings with no problems also.Just wanted to mention that I run 15k OCI`s with a T.P. change at 7.5k right now.I might extend this to 20 k since I`m running Delvac 1 with Lube Control.Just got to love the OVERKILL! [Big Grin]
 

mjo

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quote:
Originally posted by slalom44: The swelling is interesting. Could this possibly be caused by some moisture absorption? Do other TP bypass filter users notice any swelling?
I did the water decarbonization of the intake simply by pouring (slowly) hot water through the PCV valve. The engine ended up taking almost a gallon of water - steam everywhere. It produced better throttle and got rid of the misfire. Anyway after doing this 400 miles later I pulled the TP roll and sure enough - the TP was a little channeled at the top and had lots of gooey black oil in it. When it gets channeled it is absorbing lots of water.
 
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