Transmissions

[dbdeland]

I ran across this reply post by Richone and thought it was a great post. A: 1. I guess that what you mean by “same quantity change” is that you will drain X number of quarts of transmission fluid, then add back in an equal amount of fresh trans fluid. In a traditional automatic transmission there is always fluid left behind in the torque converter. So that by this method a second drain and change is required to get a higher majority of the old fluid out. Is this an Audi drive system that you are referring to? I think Nissan is getting into this drive technology as well. A: 2. The contaminants that are produced in a motor are quite different than deposits found in a transmission or gear box. Motors are quite different due to all of the external factors. A constant flow of air borne particulates and moisture is constantly being sent down through the intake. Secondly combustion is never 100%, so that unburned fuel is always blowing by ring packs to some extent. The deposits in a motor are much more complex. Carbon deposits are another animal that is present in the engine, not found in the transmission. The deposits that are formed on the inside of a transmission are linked directly to heat and some exposure to air, within a closed system. Deposits, which are more like a varnish can form in the transmission when the antioxidant and dispersant package is exhausted in the fluid. Most people do not change out transmission fluid in a timely fashion. If you were to listen to almost any transmission expert, fluid changes should be 30,000 miles or yearly. Probably the most usefull filtering device in most auto transmissions is a magnet. What particulates found in transmission fluid are mainly wear metals from gear chafing. The magnet is the most effective way to collect the larger particulates, so that they don’t cause more wear. A: Auto-Rx has great dispersion capability. The idea is to slowly dissolve the deposits so that they are suspended in the old fluid prior to draining. It does not have to be at full operating temp. before draining by any means. This is why we recommend driving 1000 miles with the appropriate ARX dosage. I would warm it up some to get a more complete drain. May be drive around the block once before draining. A: Normally, a dino oil will hold up fine for 2000 miles and the rinsing action is better, with no polar additives in the rinse oil. If this is a great concern to you with upcoming demanding driving, then you can select a group III mineral oil, which in most cases are labeled as synthetic. If you like we can get you the names of a couple group III oils. What motor are you running the clean phase on now? And what oil are you running the cleaning phase of ARX with? Rich Eklund