Hi Everyone,
The previous transmission setup that I had teed off of the transmission oil temp sensor, had a restrictor orifice and returned the cleaned oil to the (top) pan. Hoping to reduce the number of fittings, remove the very small restrictor that could plug up, and add in a few hydraulic quick-disconnect couplings I changed it to run parallel to the trans cooler. The trans cooler that I have is an independent aftermarket one - I'm not using the heat exchanger built into the rad. There is also a thermostat installed between the trans and the cooler to help facilitate torque converter lockup during the upcoming cold Michigan weather. So after having the three components installed - bypass filter, thermostat, and trans cooler all in parallel - and doing a 20 mile drive, the bypass filter didn't heat up. However, the thermostat was quite warm to the touch. Thought it was maybe air in the lines not being able to pass through the saturated TP roll so I installed a fresh roll. That didn't help. I'm wondering if I should put a flow restrictor in there in either the inlet or the outlet before the filter? I found a check valve with 2 psi cracking pressure ($22). What do you think? I appreciate any suggestions - thanks.
The previous transmission setup that I had teed off of the transmission oil temp sensor, had a restrictor orifice and returned the cleaned oil to the (top) pan. Hoping to reduce the number of fittings, remove the very small restrictor that could plug up, and add in a few hydraulic quick-disconnect couplings I changed it to run parallel to the trans cooler. The trans cooler that I have is an independent aftermarket one - I'm not using the heat exchanger built into the rad. There is also a thermostat installed between the trans and the cooler to help facilitate torque converter lockup during the upcoming cold Michigan weather. So after having the three components installed - bypass filter, thermostat, and trans cooler all in parallel - and doing a 20 mile drive, the bypass filter didn't heat up. However, the thermostat was quite warm to the touch. Thought it was maybe air in the lines not being able to pass through the saturated TP roll so I installed a fresh roll. That didn't help. I'm wondering if I should put a flow restrictor in there in either the inlet or the outlet before the filter? I found a check valve with 2 psi cracking pressure ($22). What do you think? I appreciate any suggestions - thanks.