Yep just not sure how it was spelled and didn't go looking, mine 2003 Avalanche I have changed it twice since I got mine 10 years ago, now have 228k on the clock
Transfer case & diff fluids
- Thread starter hardheaded
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- Jun 8, 2022
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So maybe someone can answer why the OEM would recomend ATF, but BG and Amsoil recommend gear lube. There pretty different no?
I have a reason to ask. I own a 2008 Nissan with 395K miles and a 2011 Nissan with 170K miles, both owned since new, with the same old school locking transfer case - no limited slip clutch anything - some gears and a chain. They both spec Matic D, which as best I can tell is pretty much Dex 3. Both use Matic S in the trans, which was the then Nissan ATF when built, and I think its pretty close to Dex6, so it was always odd they just didn't spec Matic S.
I have used Matic D, Matic S, Castrol Transmax that claims to meet Matic D specs, and Maxlife - which also claims to meet spec. I have never had a problem with either case, but they do sometimes struggle to come back out of gear. I assumed it was age and me not using them enough, but honestly for both it both started happening once it was just past warranty, when I started not using Matic D, and neither has gotten much worse.
I am tempted to pour matic D in and see what happens?
I have a reason to ask. I own a 2008 Nissan with 395K miles and a 2011 Nissan with 170K miles, both owned since new, with the same old school locking transfer case - no limited slip clutch anything - some gears and a chain. They both spec Matic D, which as best I can tell is pretty much Dex 3. Both use Matic S in the trans, which was the then Nissan ATF when built, and I think its pretty close to Dex6, so it was always odd they just didn't spec Matic S.
I have used Matic D, Matic S, Castrol Transmax that claims to meet Matic D specs, and Maxlife - which also claims to meet spec. I have never had a problem with either case, but they do sometimes struggle to come back out of gear. I assumed it was age and me not using them enough, but honestly for both it both started happening once it was just past warranty, when I started not using Matic D, and neither has gotten much worse.
I am tempted to pour matic D in and see what happens?
While on this subject, does anyone see an issue switching the rear diff gear oil in my Chrysler 300C from the factory fill of 75W-140 over to a 75W-90?
I ask because the rear diff ate up the carrier bearings. This is not a known issue with these MB sourced diffs and MB specs 75W-90 for the same diff.
I live less than a quarter mile from the freeway and on cold mornings I don't get much of a "warm up" in there before hitting freeway speeds.
I ask because the rear diff ate up the carrier bearings. This is not a known issue with these MB sourced diffs and MB specs 75W-90 for the same diff.
I live less than a quarter mile from the freeway and on cold mornings I don't get much of a "warm up" in there before hitting freeway speeds.
I highly recommend Amsoil ATF for TC and Amsoil Severe Gear for your diffs. Top notch oils for the application especially if you live in very cold or hot climate .
When I was going to change the transfer case fluid in my 07 Silverado, I found that while GM recommended Dex VI, Chrysler recommended ATF+4 in the MP cases used in their vehicles. So I believe that any synthetic ATF will work fine, along with Valvoline Transfer Case Fluid.
I use Amzoil Torque Drive for the TC.
I think everyone would agree that Amsoil makes some of the best lubricants available. The issue for me has always been the cost. So for motor oil there are many high quality motor oils available at Walmart. But for ATF, transfer cases and differentials where much less is typically used and changed less frequently it makes sense to use Amsoil. Also there is a limited choice of lubricants like ATF, etc at Walmart, AutoZone, etc.
If your differential takes 2 QTs of gear oil whether the gear oil costs $5 or $15 a QT and is changed every 2-3 years it's just not a significant cost with respect to maintaining a vehicle.
Your mindset on getting the Amsoil drivetrain fluids but passing on the motor oil is very common with the community. That's ok because you don't always have to go 100% Amsoil in every situation. I really like their products but I also use other brands if I choose. Many people also skip on Amsoil's lower tier OE drivetrain fluids if on a budget.
BrendanC
$100 site donor 2024
my 261HD tcase grenaded twice before i replaced the rear case half (snap ring groove had been worn enough to let the main shaft walk and ate the mode select fork out of it). i overfill through the rear speed sensor hole with 0w-20 now and change it once a year. always comes out just like it came out of the bottle with very little debris. truck sees 4wd often hunting and at the beach and is lifted 10” on a very heavy wheel and tire combo. i think the main point on the Tcase is to make sure it stays at atleast the level of the fill port. there is an oil pump in it that pushes oil to all of the bearings inside. i just personally like using motor oil over ATF.
I never understood the reason for the Amsoil lower tier. It's probably a lower quality product than say Mobil 1 but more expensive.
Probably?
I like that certainty. It appears to be about the same. And comparing retail price (not super sale give away price), less.
Amsoil OE was originally made for lube change places. It still is, but it's an Amsoil API oil for people with warranty fear.
My transfer case is (I believe) the NV246 in my 2005 and takes auto trak fluid. Is the only difference that the auto trak fluid is compatible with the auto mode these ones have? I never use it because some believe it's more likely to experience the pump rub issue if you do? I have 254k miles on it so far and running Valvoline that was "recommended for auto trak 2 applications".
