Trailer bearing Question

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My cousin and I are getting ready for our Colorado Elk/Wyoming Speed Goat Hunting trip. I bought a used trailer to haul my chest freezer that will hold all the assorted meat that we "might" bring home, camping gear etc.
My questions are:
1. What grease should I use to pack the bearings?
2. Just to be sure, should I buy new bearings just for insurance, What brands do you like?
3. Would it be a good idea to install bearing buddies to insure fresh grease in in the bearings at all times? Between hunting trips the trailer will be stored for long periods. During the hunt the trailer bearings will be submerged while crossing small streams.
 
Since you mentioned stream crossing, then yes to buddy bearings. Most trailer bearing I've bought come greased with regular grease. The Buddy bearings I'm used to, have Zerk fitting which will require a grease gun with a Zerk fitting to fill. Any bearing grease for trailers is good. Ed
 
I would buy marine grease that says for bearings. Its got to be OK for high RPMs as opposed to a chassis grease. It may be OK for both.

Timken bearings are the normal brand to look for.

I would pull the outside bearing from each side and wipe all the grease from the outside of it. Then carefully look at all the rollers for rust or gouges. If the rollers look good, then grease them and reinstall.

If not then replace the inner and outer on that side. You will need to pull and replace with new the seal on the inside. Make sure to clean all the old grease from the hub and the spindle. Rub a little grease on the spindle surface where the seal goes so the rubber seal is not pushed on dry. You do not need to put any grease on the actual spindle.

Do you know how to pack the bearings with a wad of grease in your palm? (Something every Dad should teach his son).

When you put back the wheel nut, tighten w/wrench while spinning the wheel to set it, then stop wheel, loosen, tighten finger tight, plus a tad more.

If the bearings go in the water, bearing buddies are a good idea. But get the real ones. They have the plate with the zerk pushed in with a spring and grease will push it out. The clones have the zerk plate welded (non-moveable).

I would carry a mounted spare tire, spare bearings (inner & outer) and a seal. Bottle jack to jack the trailer.

Pull all the lug nuts and replace with a little grease.

I am going through 2 dual axle trailers and ran into some frozen lug nuts that took a few days of PB Blaster soaking to get them off.

If a lug nut is stuck, don't put a piece of pipe on a 1/2" L handle as you may snap the stud off. Rather, PB Blaster, heat, impact.

My trailers justified (in my mind) the purchase of a cordless impact.
 
Marine grease, because you can be immersed in water.
The bearing buddy style is good, but bring your grease gun! It's no good if you don't implement the advantages!
You may get some hot leak out, because the bearings are packed full, when normally 1/2 full is correct.
 
Maybe remove the bulbs and smear a little dielectric grease on the contacts.

If the lights are going to get wet, you should pull the trailer light connector else the hot lamps might pop.

Or LED lights, they should be able to get wet and not pop.
 
You probably already did, but if not - check the tires. Old trailer tires seem to come apart. I replace mine every few years regardless of the treadwear. I probably over do it but all the tires in the sizes for both my trailers are pretty cheap - both in price and in quality.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I am waiting for the OP to ask how to pack wheel bearings. Real mechanics use their palm and a wad of grease. Not a device.


That's the way my dad taught me to do it. I could usee one of those contraptions but they seem like a waste of money
 
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