Tractor break-in

[Nikolas]

I own an old (1985) 65 hp Ford tractor. A friend of mine borrowed it and he tried to cross a small river that was a little deeper than he thought. The engine sucked water through the intake, and the result was a twisted crankshaft and bent con rods.

The engine got rebuilt. We put in new pistons, rings, sleeves, rods, crankshaft, and all the associated bearings etc. The question is how I should break it in? Unfortunately, because of the work I have to do at the fields this season, I need to run it for about 10-15 hours at WOT and at near max rpm.

The owner of the shop that did the rebuild says that this won't hurt it at all, actually it's good for it. He just told me not to idle it a lot.

So, what is the proper method and length of break in for this case? Do I need to do a short OCI?

Thanks in advance!

Nick

 

[Pablo]

You are both right.

Running hot and hard will not hurt it, but since it's a shop rebuild, changing the oil after an hour or two is wise.

 

[doitmyself]

My workplace John Deere tractors recommend a 100 hour break in period on their "special" break in oil. They specifically recommend not using their Plus 50 oil or any synthetics, claiming the parts won't seat correctly. Remember, we are not talking about a car engine here.

John Deere also recommends not to idle diesel engines a lot. They mention that break in might take longer if you baby it too much (supporting the run it hard idea.

I think it would be wise to let it warm up some before working it hard.