Toyota Yaris seeking recommendations

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Hello all. I am a long time reader. I know how to work ON the car, but that is as far as I go on mechanical ability. I have done a lot of reading and a lot of searching and could never really find a straight answer.

So, without further delay, I currently own a '08 Toyota Yaris running with a Mobil 1. I have heard from many that it is not "true" synthetic or at least it doesn't compare to that of Amsoil or Redline. I haven't purchased Amsoil because I hear different advice about it; whether I can run it up to 25,000 miles or not. If I can't run it past 5,000 miles, I don't think I want to pay that much per bottle. Then, to make my life more confusing, I hear that I should just stick to Pennzoil Platinum.

I must ask a few questions, if thats ok.

1) Is Mobil 1 a true synthetic?
2) Can I really run Amsoil (w/ their filter) for 15,000-25,000 miles?
3) FOR THIS TOYOTA ENGINE, which would be a better choice Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil?
4) I heard that there is an item that is called an "oil catch can" to prevent sludge, does it work?
5) Is it true that I shouldn't let it idle to warm up; but instead I should begin driving as cold start up to prevent sludge?

Added Information: It is a stock Toyota and I don't plan on making any performance modifications. It has over 23,000 miles. I live in Houston and I am full-time student and so I drive everywhere. I drive about 300 miles a week in freeway, downtown traffic, and whatnot.

One more thing: I do plan on owning this car for longer than 5-10 years or until its rusts itself to death (which ever comes first)

Thank-you and I apologize for the long read.
 
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to BITOG!



1) Is Mobil 1 a true synthetic? - YES!

2) Can I really run Amsoil (w/ their filter) for 15,000-25,000 miles? - It may be possible but I would do a UOA first at Toyota's recommended OCI to see if it's holding up in your engine under your driving style and go from there... Make sure to get a TAN & TBN.

3) FOR THIS TOYOTA ENGINE, which would be a better choice Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil? - They are all fine oils, but the most widely available, most cost efficient and one that seems to work well in Toyota engines is the Pennzoil Platinum.
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4) I heard that there is an item that is called an "oil catch can" to prevent sludge, does it work? - Not needed on most newer vehicles, especially Japanese engines. It does work very well if you have issue with oily residue buildup in your throttle body/intake.

5) Is it true that I shouldn't let it idle to warm up; but instead I should begin driving as cold start up to prevent sludge? - You should start the car and wait a few seconds up to 30 seconds (if extremely cold) to allow the oil to circulate and then drive conservatively until the engine is at operating temperature.

Toyota's are pretty much bullet proof, so regular maintenance at the right intervals with quality fluids and you will have very long life!
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I doubt you can run Amsoil for more than 15k miles. The oil and filter will be fine but you'll get oil change fever before you hit 15k. Your small Toyota engine will make 10k easy with any of those synthetics.
 
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Originally Posted By: sunfire
I doubt you can run Amsoil for more than 15k miles. The oil and filter will be fine but you'll get oil change fever before you hit 15k. Your small Toyota engine will make 10k easy with any of those synthetics.


Sweet!

Ok, here is the other question. I regularly go easy on the engine. I try to keep low RPM's, under 60 mph, and averaging 40mpg. I do occasionally go full throttle to escape the deadly crush of a Suburban. I don't have to do anything fancy at the oil change. Just fill and go?

Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
The least expensive dino you can find, your style of driving is very easy on that engine.


But since I have been running Mobil 1 since I first purchased it, won't the conventional oil do some damage once I use it to replace synthetic?
 
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1. That has been debated-I think performance is more important than composition.

2.My educated guess based on my own use of Amsoil is "Yes"-probably at least to 15k based on your 300 mi weeks-but I'd confirm with oil analysis.

3.Not sure. I'm sure you're under warranty so I'd take that into consideration. Any of the oils you mentioned are overkill for 5k where conventional oils will suffice. If you want to spend the extra for syn at factory drain intervals the Platinum is a great deal and has an excellent rep here.

4.Not real familiar with these, but I'm sure others here are.

5. I'd drive gently until it warms up-easier on the car and your wallet.

One question for you-are you on Yaris world?
 
Originally Posted By: REDDOG


One question for you-are you on Yaris world?


Heck yeah!

But I figured I ask here since this forum is pretty dedicated to engine lubrication. Just like you go to a gun forum to learn more about...well...GUNS!
 
Originally Posted By: texkid
But I figured I ask here since this forum is pretty dedicated to engine lubrication. Just like you go to a gun forum to learn more about...well...GUNS!

Hey, this guy has got it goin' on...
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Quote:

Your small Toyota engine will make 10k easy with any of those synthetics.


If he does a lot of city driving, he will not make this interval.

I've done a number of UOAs with my Echo and 10K seems to be the cut off for the oils I've used. (TSO,ASL,ACD,RL)
 
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Originally Posted By: texkid

I must ask a few questions, if thats ok.

1) Is Mobil 1 a true synthetic?
2) Can I really run Amsoil (w/ their filter) for 15,000-25,000 miles?
3) FOR THIS TOYOTA ENGINE, which would be a better choice Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, or Amsoil?
4) I heard that there is an item that is called an "oil catch can" to prevent sludge, does it work?
5) Is it true that I shouldn't let it idle to warm up; but instead I should begin driving as cold start up to prevent sludge?


1) Please do a search. This is discussed a ridiculous amount. M1 is not inferior and is synthetic. Every oil is a different combination of base oils to get the final product, often with a focus on specific operating characteristics.

2)Maybe. You need to run UOA for an interval or two leading up to going the full duration. You can also run M1 for nearly those intervals... 15k is likely doable depending upon conditions and driving profile, again, with UOA.

3) I have had excellent results, substantiated by UOA, of M1 with toyota engine metallurgy, and at extended drain intervals up to 15k miles. I never bothered to go further, but the oil was still serviceable.

4) Perhaps, but I'd say the jury is out for most applications. There sure is junk going through the PCVZ system, and some PCV designs are junk. Toyotas arent the world's pinnacle in engineering, and their engines are sludge-prone in some designs, just like engines from other makes. I doubt that yours is one of them, however. I'd keep an eye on the throttle body and see if you get a lot of junk in there within a short time. Using synthetic oils should benefit in terms of lower volatility in some cases.

5) definitely. There is no real benefit to allowing the engine to idle to warm up, and can actually be doing bad things in terms of fuel and water loading into the oil. The key is to be gentle with your use, especially before the water is up to temperature. Oil temperature, which is the key metric, lags water temperature by roughly 20 miles/minutes of use, so no real hard driving before then... but ou can use it normally shortl after water is up to temp.

good luck!
 
I'm running PP 5/30 in our 08 Yaris Sedan and would have to be considered as "going easy" on the engine as well at around 60 mph highway , and have registered 52 mpg on a short trip. This oil seems to stay clean longer.
 
If you're still under warranty on that Yaris, run the grade that is recommended by the manufacturer (5W-30 or 0W-20), and stick to the interval sepcified by the manufacturer (5k, I think), unless you want to fight it out with toyota if you ever need warranty work done....
 
Thanks for the advice everybody. I guess for now, I'll look into those oil catch containers. Can't really hurt, right?

I am using 5w-30 and plan on sticking to it. Yeah, I have heard from others that 0w-20 also works. However, when my warranty is an issue, I called 5 different dealerships in my area and none agreed to whether or not 0w-20 was safe. In fact, one of them even said, "Yaris? Hmm...I think so? Heck, we put that in our Camry's". I figured, if a guy in a Toyota shirt can't confirm it, I'd rather wait 'til my warranty is done for.

Addyguy:
You're right, maybe I should stick to the 5k mile intervals until I hit 60k miles, at least.

As for now, I plan on sending in the used Mobil 1 when I hit 25k miles and then try Pennzoil Platinum and send that in at 30k and see if there is a considerable difference. Does that sound like a good plan?
 
And while on the subject, why is that 5w-30 and 0w-20 seem to be good for the Yaris (to some degree) but no one I've talked to seem to use 0w-30? What does 0w-20 have over 0w-30 that has gained popularity in fuel efficiency and/or subcompact cars?
 
I have a yaris and tried many oils and filters. Motul 8100 econ-ergy 5W-30 with the BIGGER wix 51396 is a GREAT combo. Best MPGS over 40 consistently and excellent power and creamy smoothness. Forget the catch can - No oil burnt in this thing and what gets by needs to be on the intake valve stem. At Yarisworld a buddy of mine runs PP 5W-30 and Purolator Pure one and says that combo works great( of MANY tried). So, I guess he wins, since it's CHEAPER than my combo. Stay away from Valvoline syn in this engine. All said I'm trying M1 AFE 0w-30 and a BOSCH this go round given the 10$ mobil coupon out there ....
 
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