I have never serviced a newer Tundra, but for troublesome drain plugs I fab up a piece of aluminum foil or cardboard to direct the flow.What’s really a pain on my truck is the height of the drain plug. I get oil every where when trying to drain it as it spews out a few feet from the plug. An oil extractor doesn’t work on this pan design.
Amen.Now for bad designs, all those Honda engines with the oil filter in the back... Sheesh. 1st gen TSX with the mighty K24 are the worst.
Did you know the kind we're now forced to call "spin-on" for clarity were originally called "cartridges"? That was logical, considering the general sense of the word. The original idea was to replace the housing, element, valving, and gasket all at once in a single cartridge to make filter changes idiot-proof. Over 60 years later, we still have idiots.Now I'm confused.
Now you mention it... last time I changed on my Tundra I had oil all over the place, and it baffled me--as I had changed it like 7 times already. Come to think of it, the drain pan was was in my dirt driveway, and much closer than what it is now in my garage! [Due to the crown in the dirt.] Thanks for the tip. Next time I change it, I might just put boards under the drain pan, so as to raise it up.Had thought about Fumoto, and perhaps it’s time I bit the bullet. I have a nice Gold Plug magnetic drain plug on there.
There's a spring in the cannister. The center tube is spring loaded. I've never looked further than that.The spin on filter has the adbv and bypass valve. Where are they in the cartridge adapter? Or does it have nothing?
Can't the metal part break too? I mean, I've seen all sorts of things break and/or wear out, and I'm not a mechanic.If you convert it's one less plastic part that's going to break.
The cartridge filter on my Tundra isn’t bad at all. I switched to the Toyota metal housing, can provide details if anyone wants them, about $25 for the aluminum one.
What’s really a pain on my truck is the height of the drain plug. I get oil every where when trying to drain it as it spews out a few feet from the plug. An oil extractor doesn’t work on this pan design.
The filter design is a non-issue compared with the plug.
I no longer let Toyota dealership “mechanics” work on my Toyota. They’re clowns.
They boogered up the old oil filter housing, so I bought the aluminum one. On another oil change, they left bolts stuck in a magnetic dish on the frame and had to get new bolts for the skid plate, oops... Finally, when doing a recall, forgot to put all the bolts back in the bumper bracket.
Three times I’ve let the Toyota dealer in Virginia Beach touch my truck, and each time, it’s been a clown show. They can’t even do an oil change without breaking or losing components.
Compared with gross ineptitude- who cares about filter design?
Almost 100% sure you can convert your 2017 canister element to a spin on filter. Just look up at your oil filter base and if it looks like the picture of the base above in the thread, it’s possible. The parts are that base, o rings and the threaded piece for the new spin on. You could buy the parts by plugging in a 2020 in place of the 2017. The new part bolts on and there it is, no more canister element oil filter. A supplier would find no stock kit, but he could find the parts needed.I think Toyota has heard the groans...seems like most new models since 2017 now are back to the screw-on types. I just bought a 2021 Prius and she has the screw-on but my wife's 2017 Prius 2 has the stupid canister. So I asked my Toyota OEM supplier if there's a kit to convert it. (It's the same engine as mine.) Nope. So I checked Baxter's and it has them but then says, "Does not fit Prius 2" ...so maybe there's a space limitation in there....stinks!
My daughter has a 2012 Sienna with the same plastic cannister filter and when I last did her oil change I noticed the cannister went ALL the way in before even feeling very tight so I ordered an aftermarket aluminum one for $15 and will change it out at the next oil change.