Toyota RAV4 2015 OF Cartridge Drain Plug Stuck

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I don't know the details of your vehicle, but perhaps a Form-A-Funnel would help?

My Cub Cadet had a plastic hose that would drain OK if it didn't fall off half way through the oil drain. But the oil filter would dump right onto the frame until I got a Form-A-Funnel, which would channel it into the pan. (Then the transaxle died before I got to use it again). It's the green thing in the picture, not the red funnel, and you can mold and shape it to your needs.

Honestly when it comes to oil changes a lot of vehicles aren't designed. They are just components bolted together, and if nothing interferes and catches fire, the engineers call it good.

[Linked Image]
 
Originally Posted by HangFire
I don't know the details of your vehicle, but perhaps a Form-A-Funnel would help?

My Cub Cadet had a plastic hose that would drain OK if it didn't fall off half way through the oil drain. But the oil filter would dump right onto the frame until I got a Form-A-Funnel, which would channel it into the pan. (Then the transaxle died before I got to use it again). It's the green thing in the picture, not the red funnel, and you can mold and shape it to your needs.

Honestly when it comes to oil changes a lot of vehicles aren't designed. They are just components bolted together, and if nothing interferes and catches fire, the engineers call it good.

[Linked Image]


This design on Toyota is just plain ridiculous. I came to the point where seriously questioning that funnel plastic thing is it worth using it.
 
Originally Posted by Mr Nice
Used oil on skin is very bad.

Buy a box of gloves.



I think that's true but more so if one does oil changes a whole lot... That's where it becomes a bigger concern. Once in awhile... No biggie. Just thoroughly wash hands or like you said get some gloves.
 
Originally Posted by Astro14
I manage to change the oil on the Tundra without getting oil everywhere. Put a piece of plastic hose over the little plastic drain tool (included with every factory filter) and drain it right into your pan. Easy. Dripless. Clean.

Then remove the housing. It won't drip/run because it's already empty.

Or, you could try this:

https://www.motivxtools.com/collect...il-filter-drain-tool?variant=16794858950

Which I just ordered.

While I'm not a fan of how Toyota did this, the cartridge housing drain was thoughtful. My Volvos always dribble down the outside of the cartridge housing.


That looks like a great tool to address this problem, not an almost useless tool looking for a problem. Thanks for posting this, I can use this and one for VW.
 
Originally Posted by ArPix
Wow, thanks for all the great replies and suggestions! I really appreciate it.

This morning I called the dealer and explained the situation. He agreed to take care of it, so I took the car in. He said they never remove that plug but he had a tech loosen it and reinstall it just snug. I guess I'll find out next time I change the oil if it's OK. I like the idea of draining the canister before I remove it. That's the way I do it on my VW Rabbit which has a similar setup.


Glad the dealer took care of it for you. I'm gonna be the odd man out again and say I like the design of the filter housing. If you get the filter from the dealer it includes the plastic drain tool and IMO makes everything pretty mess free. The housing itself I notice is always on there tight even if you torque it to spec, but I have a Motivx tool that makes it easier. I had to use a 27mm socket and 1/2 breaker bar to get it loose last time as I was going behind the dealer. Amazingly the oil pan drain plug was easy to remove...
 
Originally Posted by JeffKeryk
I am surprised someone hasn't made an adapter allowing for a conventional filter...

Problem is equally location as it is design.
 
Originally Posted by Dan55
Leave it in and just remove the housing,that's what I do. Oem only on the housing.


This. It isn't particularly messy. It isn't any messier than changing canister style filters. I've never once removed the plug on my 2012. :) I have a BUNCH of o-rings saved up in case it ever starts leaking though. :)
 
Even with "old school" canister filters, I don't spill hardly a couple drops doing an oil change. On the OPs Toyota, I understand the drain plug in the cartridge housing is supposed to make it cleaner. But even without the drain plug, how hard can it be? If you want to use the drain plug, just replace the whole housing and then do your own oil & filter changes. But I don't see any need to replace it, really.

Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Mr Nice
Used oil on skin is very bad.

Buy a box of gloves.

Thanx for opening my eyes.

You wear contacts?? I "see" what you did there!
 
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Originally Posted by DGXR
Even with "old school" canister filters, I don't spill hardly a couple drops doing an oil change. On the OPs Toyota, I understand the drain plug in the cartridge housing is supposed to make it cleaner. But even without the drain plug, how hard can it be? If you want to use the drain plug, just replace the whole housing and then do your own oil & filter changes. But I don't see any need to replace it, really.

Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Mr Nice
Used oil on skin is very bad.

Buy a box of gloves.

Thanx for opening my eyes.

You wear contacts?? I "see" what you did there!

It is not hard, is it messy, yeah. But than, I compare it to VW. It depends what messy is in this case.
 
I had a few rav 4's, and always used a breaker bar on the cap to get it off, then just snugged it back on.

Always replaced all the O rings and lubed them, never had this problem before.

It takes the same amount of time to replace as a spin on filter.
 
I serviced an older Corolla with the composite (plastic?) housing.
It was sooooo tight, even with the slotted removal tool I was afraid I would crack it.
I left it on and suggested my friend take it to a shop in case it broke.
They got it off.

I chickened out; if it were my car I woulda cranked on that sucker!
On the 4 or so services I've done on these canister Toyota filters, I have not bothered with the filter drain.
 
Originally Posted by JustinH
I had a few rav 4's, and always used a breaker bar on the cap to get it off, then just snugged it back on.

Always replaced all the O rings and lubed them, never had this problem before.

It takes the same amount of time to replace as a spin on filter.

SInce I own Sienna I changed oil three times (5 month period). I think part of the problem might be time as some cars do not make a lot of miles. I actually never had a problem removing any components of filter housing assembly. I do lubricate all gaskets before putting back things together.
 
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
On Toyota, I need to marinate my hands in hydrogen peroxide after oil change how dirty they are.

You could try wearing gloves. Plus Dawn dishsoap is pretty good on grease.

Really, I mean how I did not know that gloves exist?
And dish soap. You opened my eyes. I never heard of it.
This POS Toyota leaks oil from filter housing, using that plastic pipe, or whatever it is or not. It just goes everywhere, and it will contaminate hands whether gloves are worn or not.
Yes, dish soap helps, but I need to have absolutely clean hands to take out contact lenses. So, it is a process.
But love when people on internet assume that someone who changes oil never heard of gloves or dish soap.

Glad to be of help.
crackmeup2.gif
No really, you do crack me up...
 
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