Toyota OEM oil filter elements

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
May 25, 2003
Messages
713
Location
Quebec Canada
I've read for many years about how bad it is to have cardboard glued to a fram filter instead of steel,..... well I just bought a new filter element from Toyota for a corolla 09 1.8 and guess what , all you get for 7.00 cdn is plated paper filter with no cardboard or metal to keep everything in place.....what was so wrong with the carboard then , or why it is so good to have metal ends........
 
IMO there is nothing wrong with cardboard endcaps per se. The problem is that Fram charges as much or more than filters that are far better built. Many cars last a long, long time using Fram filters exclusively but for about the same price I'll take a Purolator or Wix.
 
While some here worry about the end caps, I quit using Fram for the lack of media between them. It has been years since I cut the last one I bought apart. I don't remember the slipshod thrown together assembly many report here.

The elements I paid $8 for in 2002 for my Cavalier had plastic end caps, but seemed to be well made and crammed with media. It is use them or find a different car.
 
Do you think Yota is going to sell a inferior filter on engines they warranty for 60K? Not. The ends are sealed witha thermal bonding agent and the cans have lots a media for their size. Several threads on this subject. Search is your friend.
 
Yeah, Hermann is right. Look closely at how that element is constructed. It does not rely upon end caps of any type to stabilize the element. Look at the junction between the tube and the element. And look at how the ends are joined. Better still, buy an extra one, and dissect it, noting the effort it takes to unseal the ends of the pleats. Hint: do it carefully. . .
 
Originally Posted By: pbm

IMO there is nothing wrong with cardboard endcaps per se. The problem is that Fram charges as much or more than filters that are far better built. Many cars last a long, long time using Fram filters exclusively but for about the same price I'll take a Purolator or Wix.


I agree, in part. Where there may be a problem with the cardboard is in their flexibility, and the potential for failing to hold the element in the proper place. A lot of photos of used Fram interiors show a wavy and distorted element, and sometimes, a degree of warping of the end caps. One the ones I've cut, I note that the bypass valve just sits atop the paper end cap, and is not secured, other than by the top of the can pushing down. If it comes out of position, there's nothing to keep unfiltered oil from flooding down the centertube, and right into the engine.

No, I don't think that Frams are instruments of instant engine destruction. I just see no reason to buy one, when I can have something so much better for effectively the same price.
cheers3.gif
 
I fully understand that the element isn't [censored] but you have to agree that this construction compared to a more conventional one of the same quality seems flimsy, fragile. Not long ago the heavier was the filter the strongest it was,the same was considered very solid and with metal endcap and twice the size it was even better.
Now your buying a paper for the price of an entire conventional filter , a small ring of 1/8 of an inch of plastic old the pleat together a no one question that , its funny here sometimes its everything or nothing , at least its interesting ;-))
 
You could always buy the TRD filters, they are apparently similar to a Fleetguard/Donaldson/AMSOIL/Royal Purple filter in construction.
 
Thanks for the info maybe for the future but I'll stay with the OEM stuff for now, first its cheaper than going with Carquest or UAP, unbelievable hey , OEM is 1.50 less than carquest and 4.00 less than UAP ...( Wix stuff )
 
Originally Posted By: Baveux
Thanks for the info maybe for the future but I'll stay with the OEM stuff for now, first its cheaper than going with Carquest or UAP, unbelievable hey , OEM is 1.50 less than carquest and 4.00 less than UAP ...( Wix stuff )


TRD is Toyota Racing Development, you should be able to get them from your dealer.
 
I have always used the Toyota OE filter until I got some PureOne filters on Amazon for $3.77 after the $1 rebate. The canister one on the Lexus is still OE but the Rav4 and T4R are PureOne for sure. The visible difference in construction of the PureOne is evidence enough for me.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: wgtoys
Does the Toyota filter look like this Denso unit?


cutaway_oilfilter.gif



yeah that's the one. Except toyota oems come with a black (possibly a nitrile) anti-drainback valve
 
Hermann and Ekpolk are right. The OEM Toyota filters definitely look to be very well made. I don't know why some folks quickly put down the Toyota/Denso OEM YZZF1. For instance, a few weeks ago, member Es330 put down the YZZF1 in a different thread. Es330, I enjoy reading your posts about other matters, so I'm kind of curious why you don't think much of the YZZF1. At the time, you said even a Wix is better.

I guess there's that old sponge versus paper debate.

I suppose what we need is used oil Particle Counts comparing the Toyota YZZF1 with the Mobil 1 filters (the M1-103 and the oversized M1-209).
 
Last edited:
The toyota oe (denso)filters are well made but the pureone filters were about $2 cheaper each and equally as good if not better so price wins if the quality is as good. My dealer is getting $5.50 for a filter now.
 
My Toyota dealer charges 50 cents more than yours for the OEM filter. But next time, I'm going to install the oversized Mobil 1 209 filter. The 209 is taller and it's O-ring gasket is slightly wider than the Denso YZZF1, but according to the excellent Wix site, the bypass valve setting of 8 to 11 psi should be the same for the YZZF1, the spec'ed Mobil 1 103 alternative, and the oversized Mobil 1 209. In other words, Wix's alternative filters for all 3 of those models uses a bypass valve setting of 8 to 11 PSI. The GPM is the same too.

A fellow on PriusChat uses the 209 in place of his YZZF1/F2 on the Prius, IIRC.

Does anyone think I should reconsider using the 209 on the Camry? I guess if the oil light comes on after installation, I can always swap it out for the OEM.
 
Last edited:
I am paying $5.41 with new washer thrown in for free at the dealer. Plus its nice when your name comes up on their computers when you want service, and they see you have at least made some purchases from them. A dollar or two extra, here and there can go a long way to good dealer relations. Remember not all dealers are stealers.
 
I was very happy to find Ecotec elements cheaper elsewhere after Mr Goodwrench questioned my ability to undertake such complex repairs. I even endured orange boxes as long as they had the same Purlux as the Delco did.
 
Originally Posted By: Built_Well
My Toyota dealer charges 50 cents more than yours for the OEM filter.


BuiltWell, Is that dealer Machens, they sell cars cheaper than even dealers here in KC,($300 or so)I bought my first Toyota from them in the '90's. I guess they make up the difference by selling parts for a bit more. IIRC they are the only Toyota dealer in Columbia.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top