Toyota Dynamic Force four-cylinder “electronic” oil pump

If we are ending at that as the final conclusion (he was grossly wrong because he has difficulty convening the English language) then no one should ever listen to him again. I don’t think is a valid conclusion.
Sometimes because English isn't his native language, what he means isn't necessarily what he actually says.
 
Problem is people being lazy. They hear a YouTuber say it’s electronic and instead of doing their own research, they will go: 0w16 oil spec plus an electric oil pump, yup it all makes sense. All justified and verified in their own head. No facts or research needed, just statements, that in their uneducated heads make sense.
 
Problem is people being lazy. They hear a YouTuber say it’s electronic and instead of doing their own research, they will go: 0w16 oil spec plus an electric oil pump, yup it all makes sense. All justified and verified in their own head. No facts or research needed, just statements, that in their uneducated heads make sense.
The Dunning-Kruger Effect in full effect.
 
Or maybe he just made a mistake cause he is human. He seems eloquent enough to me. I’m sorry but I don’t believe your premise to be true.
I watched his video shortly after he put it on youtube. I heard what he said and immediately correlated it to meaning an electronically controlled oil pump, not an electrically driven oil pump. Some of you need to work on your critical thinking skills. He is very eloquent since English isn't native to him, and because of that, he occasionally has a lost in translation moment.

AMD is one of the most honest mechanics you'll find and goes out of his way to do the job properly, using approved techniques and parts. No, he's not a hot-rodder or custom engine builder, but he knows more about Toyota/Lexus vehicles and anyone on this forum. I'll take his word over anyone on this forum when it comes to Toyota/Lexus maintenance.
 
What we do not know is the size and length of the oil galleys how long on cold start it takes oil at a specific pressure to flow in sufficient quantity to protect the bearings etc.
We also do not know if the computer puts out full pressure at idle after cold start for a few seconds to fast prime the passages, I think that would be wise but did the engineers?
We also don’t know when full load is allowed on the engine. DBW means the ECU can ramp power output as it feels like responding. In a hybrid setup, it can “pause” even longer, let the electric motor do all the work, while the engine comes properly online. If they so chose to program so.

Your right foot is more of a suggestion today than in the past, with no VSC, TC, DBW, torque management, et al in the way back then.
 
I watched his video shortly after he put it on youtube. I heard what he said and immediately correlated it to meaning an electronically controlled oil pump, not an electrically driven oil pump. Some of you need to work on your critical thinking skills. He is very eloquent since English isn't native to him, and because of that, he occasionally has a lost in translation moment.

AMD is one of the most honest mechanics you'll find and goes out of his way to do the job properly, using approved techniques and parts. No, he's not a hot-rodder or custom engine builder, but he knows more about Toyota/Lexus vehicles and anyone on this forum. I'll take his word over anyone on this forum when it comes to Toyota/Lexus maintenance.
My critical thinking hat is firmly on: The same 0w16 at -5F in Minnesota during the winter and at 105F in Arizona during the summer are going to be vastly different. Assuming the oil pressure is “programmed for 0w16” and cannot handle the viscosity difference of 16 vs 20. As AMD suggests. How can said engine not be harmed at one end of the temperature spectrum or the other in the above scenario?
 
My critical thinking hat is firmly on: The same 0w16 at -5F in Minnesota during the winter and at 105F in Arizona during the summer are going to be vastly different. Assuming the oil pressure is “programmed for 0w16” and cannot handle the viscosity difference of 16 vs 20. As AMD suggests. How can said engine not be harmed at one end of the temperature spectrum or the other in the above scenario?
It is a bunch of misinformed malarkey and nothing else.
 
As others have mentioned... Unfortunately, I do feel the oil pump drive belt "technology" (as used by a favorite manufacturer) is less than ideal. Even so, it's probably quite hard to overload the belt, even with high viscosity oil, as it wont produce excess pressure due to the pressure relief system.
 
So would 0w16 or 0w20 be best for Ohio climate? Lots of short trips. I'm using 0w16, but am thinking about bumping up to 0w20.
My Rav4 is still under warranty..
 
So would 0w16 or 0w20 be best for Ohio climate? Lots of short trips. I'm using 0w16, but am thinking about bumping up to 0w20.
My Rav4 is still under warranty..
OCIs > oil weight. Will the truck get any chance of going on a long trip into the city or elsewhere to warm up?

I think you can’t go wrong with either, Toyota D4-S isn’t known for crazy oil dilution like DI-only systems, as the ECU will use both port and direct injection at start-up and choose which injection strategy is appropriate - it can run only on DI at higher speeds.
 
OCIs > oil weight. Will the truck get any chance of going on a long trip into the city or elsewhere to warm up?

I think you can’t go wrong with either, Toyota D4-S isn’t known for crazy oil dilution like DI-only systems, as the ECU will use both port and direct injection at start-up and choose which injection strategy is appropriate - it can run only on DI at higher speeds.
I go on a longer drive that would warm it up maybe once every week or two on the weekends. Otherwise it is driving 1.7 miles to work and home again. Not even close to warming up. I only drive around 4,000 miles a year, and have been doing yearly oil changes. I think I'll send in for an oil analysis on my next oil change this summer. I had sent in an oil sample to Blackstone on a 2017 Jetta with the 1.4 DI Turbo with the same commute, and the results weren't too awfully bad but the 0w40 Penzoil Platinum Euro oil had sheared down to 30 weight.

My concern is the 0w16 might shear down too much with my short trip commute, and I might have to bump up to 0w20 or keep using 0w16 and change oil every 6 months and 2,000 miles intead of yearly oil changes.
 
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So would 0w16 or 0w20 be best for Ohio climate?
100C viscosity for 0w-16 and 0w-20 actually overlap per the SAE. And their both 0W winter pump rated. Easy to overthink it. Probably doesn't matter in the end.

So does this mean the oil pump is "programmed" for 0w-20 also. :unsure:


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Thank you^^^ I've too have seen this video before and will watch it again. I like thecarcarenut.

My BIL is on his 4th Camry(2018 XLE 4cyl.), purchased new. This is the first Camry that he doesn't like.
Not for the engine but the "CHEAP FEELING" of overall build quality, noises(lack of sound insulation) tinny feeling of the doors, cheapness of controls etc. I drove it and though it was nice! NOT particularly loud but I also though it was less Camry-like and any other generation..."No more boring cars". < But I didn't think it was that either. I've driven every Camry generation since they were RWD.

The other generations had a softness-smoothness, refinement & quiet of a car costing more money. Especially from 1987-2006 models.
Once 2007 came around, they lost some Camry-ness(or BUICK-ness). I drove a new 2015 Camry when I was looking for a new car that year and though it was getting better but still not tops for the class for Toyota-ness.
Since when was a Camry "ever" RWD????
 
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