Toyota Composite Oil Filter Cap STUCK - Any guidance?

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Jan 9, 2010
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Location
Los Gatos, CA
Serviced my friends 2015 Corolla with the stupid composite oil filter cap. I am using the correct removal tool...
I had an extended 1/2 ratchet and even banged on it with a small sledge. Will not budge; I was afraid of breaking it so I left it.
I was also servicing the CVT; the car was not that high off the ground, but I had a lot of torque.
@The Critic advised me to get it up high and use an extension pipe.
I ordered an Amazon Dorman replacement; I will try again with a long Matco breaker bar. And who knows what else.
I've heard of using an impact, but not sure I'm that brave...

Gotta love those quickie lubes. At least that's my guess. Funny thing; the filter cap was installed crazy tight but the oil drain plug broke torque with my fingers when I was squaring up 14MM Snappy box. Wasn't leaking...
And guidance is appreciated, if you have run into this problem.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Yes. POS. Torque is 18 pound feet.

Had to edit my post since it seems your buddy took this 2 a quick lube place, anyway that you can spray something like WD40 up in there? I am wondering if this oil filter was put on without the rubber seal. I hope everything works out. Good Luck
 
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How about spraying canned air (upside down) liquid around the cap close to the threads, maybe it will help the plastic contract just a little, enough to break the hold? Possibly run the engine, get the block warm and then spray it for maximum temperature difference?
 
Did your buddy take it 2 a quick lube place 4 his last OC?
He just bought it. His TSX was sideswiped in a parking lot where he worked and totaled.
The car was serviced at Toyota most of the time; we think the last few were quickie lube. No way to tell for sure.
Regardless, this thing is on tight!
 
Mine was like that from the factory on our 2012 corolla, there's no way it was 18 lbs. I did the first oil change so I can't blame it on the dealer or quick lube. After trying to get it off I got worried and ordered an aftermarket one on Amazon in case I broke it. I had the proper tool, some don't have the notches that grab the fins on the cap to help loosen it. I think I got it off with the engine cold, not warm. It was 11 years ago, never had an issue again. I actually like the cap style now.
 
He just bought it. His TSX was sideswiped in a parking lot where he worked and totaled.
The car was serviced at Toyota most of the time; we think the last few were quickie lube. No way to tell for sure.
Regardless, this thing is on tight!

Time for some WD40 or some other penetrant!
 
Critic is onto something--raise it up a bit so you can get more leverage and/or a longer handle.

If your tool has the 3/8 square drive hole inside a hex, use a big socket on the hex. See below for the reason. That may have had something to do with my heel and a long ratchet under a Pontiac Vibe.

It's fine to tighten the cap with a 3/8 ratchet. And if you think "Maybe I should snug it up just a little more," you don't.

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A lot of the aftermarket filter wrenches don't have the proper cut out notches that grab the fins on the filter housing, this extra leverage really helps.
 
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I wouldn’t use an impact on it but if it’s a last resort then maybe. You don’t want it to crack then not be able to drive it to somewhere with a lift. I’ve seen this happen before and what you don’t want to happen is they can break off at the threads. Last time it happened we had to get a large set of Channellock and a punch and finally managed to get it out. Usually they just crack around the ears if you have that style of tool. I prefer the style that just grips the bottom. Last one I seen an impact used on it just sat that and kept spinning off and beat the snot out of it. Here is a trick I’ve done too is get either some vise grips or Channellocks and grip onto the bottom 3/8 drive piece around the circumference then have a small extension and long 3/8 or 1/2 with an adapter and while you are holding that little drain circle try to get it to budge by using that 3/8 drive square because if done right it will hold the drain in place and spin the housing. That’s saved me a few times. Wish I could be there to help you. Believe me I’ve been there and done that with these I hate them things man. Wish they had a hex on top. Now with being a Subaru/ Toyota tech I’ve learned all the tricks to go with them haha.
 
FWIW, my neighbor had the same thing done to his Corolla at the quick lube place. He asked if I could get the cap off. Even with the "proper" tools; cups and strap wrench (he was trying to loosen it with water pump pliers), I couldn't get it to budge.

I told him he has two options:
  1. Fill the crankcase with new oiland run the old filter. Next oil change, take it back to the quick lube place.
  2. Put the drained oil back in and take it to the quick lube place on Monday for an oil change.
 
Here's my tool; 15/16". Has slots and flutes. Hasn't failed me yet, but this one's a doozey! I also have the Toyota version, but as I recall it has flutes only.
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I don't understand why they continue to use composite, (read cheap plastic), for these type of applications? Plastic, combined with motor oil equals sticking and seizing. Especially with a monkey at Jiffy Lube at the other end.

The plastic oil filler caps most all vehicles use are bad enough. All 3 of my vehicles have them, and even with cleaning and greasing the sealing surfaces and O-Rings, (which I do with every oil change), I still have to be cautious when I tighten them. I barely go 2 finger tight. Or else they're a bear to remove.

I can't imagine tightening mating plastic surfaces to almost 20 foot pounds. This has to be a common occurrence. I'm thankful all 3 of my cars utilize metallic, spin on oil filters.

They never should have gotten away from the old stamped metal, 1/4 turn on / off oil filler caps, with the cork or fiber sealing gasket. All they did was work...... Effortlessly. Now, it's yet another thing they've gone and, "improved".
 
I don't understand why they continue to use composite, (read cheap plastic), for these type of applications? Plastic, combined with motor oil equals sticking and seizing. Especially with a monkey at Jiffy Lube at the other end.

The plastic oil filler caps most all vehicles use are bad enough. All 3 of my vehicles have them, and even with cleaning and greasing the sealing surfaces and O-Rings, (which I do with every oil change), I still have to be cautious when I tighten them. I barely go 2 finger tight. Or else they're a bear to remove.

I can't imagine tightening mating plastic surfaces to almost 20 foot pounds. This has to be a common occurrence. I'm thankful all 3 of my cars utilize metallic, spin on oil filters.

They never should have gotten away from the old stamped metal, 1/4 turn on / off oil filler caps, with the cork or fiber sealing gasket. All they did was work...... Effortlessly. Now, it's yet another thing they've gone and, "improved".
The plastic caps work perfect as long as they are not overtightened.

Mine has had over 40 oil changes and is in perfect condition. The secret? Following the **** directions!
 
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