The only 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils I know of that are both ACEA A3 and "Energy Conserving" are Schaeffer's synthetic blend ($3.50/qt). I don't know about the German Castrol 0W-30. Maybe Amsoil oils also are A3 and Energy Conserving, but only consider them if they say, "meets and exceeds..." not if they say, "recommended for engines requiring..."--there's a difference.
Any 10W-30 oil will work OK in your 4.7, but the better oils will give more protection for more miles. The best oils will also give friction reduction and a cleaner engine, as well as reduced wear. If you get the typical cold engine piston slap (light knocking), not a big problem, and you're not using Schaeffer oil, try a bottle of Schaeffer's #132 E.P. oil treatment and let us know the result. The #132 can't hurt, it's cheap, and I'd like to know if it helps diminish the piston slap.
Don't know about German vs. Japanese engines in general. Toyota engines in particular are tough on oil, because the camshaft drive gears (under the lumps in the housing at the forward end of each valve cover) tend to shear the oil down to a lower viscosity. The sheared remnants of the viscosity index improver polymers then tend to form sludge. Motor oil really isn't very good gear oil.
I like the Lexus 4.7 oil filter, the Toyota 90915-20004. Check various local and on-line Toyota and Lexus dealers for the best price.
Really tough differential oil?...Schaeffer #267 80W-90. Driveshaft grease points...Schaeffer #221--waterproof and won't sling out. Automatic transmission...if Dexron III, Schaeffer #204S. Transfer case & front diff...Mobil 1 or Amsoil 75W-90. Power steering...Schaeffer #204S ATF. (If my recommendations are different from your owner's manual, come back here with those specs.)
Don't forget to flush and renew your antifreeze every two years, as well as flushing and renewing the brake fluid biannually, also.
Ken
[ May 16, 2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]