Toyota 4.7L V8 engine what oil to use...

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16
Location
Philadelphia PA
This is for a 2003 4Runner, manual calls for SL rated 5W-30 "Energy Concerving" oil changed either every 5K or 7.5K miles. I love this truck and want to use nothing but the best. Do you think that using the BMW 5W-30 synthetic oil might get me into trouble with the Toyota warranty? I totally trust the BMW oil as I use it in my BMW for a long time now with great results, oil changes every 6K miles. TIA guys, this is a great board.
 
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33,971
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Southern NJ
[Welcome!] what part of Philly are you in? I'm over in south jersey, on the cinnaminson/moorestown border. My opinion is go with Mobil 1 5w-30 in winter and 10w-30 in summer. Honestly, I think the only better oil is Schaeffer's and Redline at this point. I see zero benefit of using Amsoil over Mobil 1, unless your talking about there S3000 HD 5w-30. Both are mail order though. Mobil 1 10w-30 is excellent. Nice truck by the way. Ready for some EAGLES! [Cheers!] [ May 16, 2003, 07:33 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 

vaphilly

Thread starter
Messages
16
Location
Philadelphia PA
I am over in Valley Forge area. The problem is that I want to use an ACEA A3 oil, it is my understanding that this is the most demanding test and provides max protection. The BMW oil is A3 rated but not SL or "Energy Concerving" About these Eagles, I am a recent transplant and my heart is still with the Packers. Cheers
 

Patman

Staff member
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21,988
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by vaphilly: The problem is that I want to use an ACEA A3 oil, it is my understanding that this is the most demanding test and provides max protection.
Look no further than your local Autozone then, and pick up Castrol 0w30 Syntec, but make sure it says made in Germany on the back. This is actually Formula SLX oil and it passes the ACEA A3 test, with it's 3.6 HTHS number. It's a very thick 30wt, almost 40wt actually, at 12.1 cst at 100c.
 

vaphilly

Thread starter
Messages
16
Location
Philadelphia PA
German Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40 ? which one is better? and are Jap engines any different than German ones in how they treat oil? Cheers
 
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33,971
Location
Southern NJ
quote:
About these Eagles, I am a recent transplant and my heart is still with the Packers
AHHH, your one of those! [Razz] I'd go with either one. M1 0w-40 has a Ht/Hs of 3.6 as well. It tends to thin out a bit. The Castrol looks nice. Patman, is the Castrol a group IV?
 
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9,448
Location
USA
Mobile 1, Amsoil, Redline 10W30 year round. If you live in a really warm state like Texas or Georgia then go for the 15W50 grades in the above brands if you like. Change your oil every 5000-7000 miles and put a new air filter in ever 12,000. If you seldom drive any distance then go to extreme service with above oils. They vechile will out last your desire to own it. I have a 1986 that has been in my family since 1986 and it is still going strong all origanal!
 
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8,937
Location
SC
quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: Mobile 1, Amsoil, Redline 10W30 year round. If you live in a really warm state like Texas or Georgia then go for the 15W50 grades in the above brands if you like. Change your oil every 5000-7000 miles and put a new air filter in ever 12,000. If you seldom drive any distance then go to extreme service with above oils. They vechile will out last your desire to own it. I have a 1986 that has been in my family since 1986 and it is still going strong all origanal!
The new air filter every 12,000 miles is probably NOT a good idea. What's "origANAL?" It sounds painful. [Big Grin]
 
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6,388
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Washington St.
The only 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils I know of that are both ACEA A3 and "Energy Conserving" are Schaeffer's synthetic blend ($3.50/qt). I don't know about the German Castrol 0W-30. Maybe Amsoil oils also are A3 and Energy Conserving, but only consider them if they say, "meets and exceeds..." not if they say, "recommended for engines requiring..."--there's a difference. Any 10W-30 oil will work OK in your 4.7, but the better oils will give more protection for more miles. The best oils will also give friction reduction and a cleaner engine, as well as reduced wear. If you get the typical cold engine piston slap (light knocking), not a big problem, and you're not using Schaeffer oil, try a bottle of Schaeffer's #132 E.P. oil treatment and let us know the result. The #132 can't hurt, it's cheap, and I'd like to know if it helps diminish the piston slap. Don't know about German vs. Japanese engines in general. Toyota engines in particular are tough on oil, because the camshaft drive gears (under the lumps in the housing at the forward end of each valve cover) tend to shear the oil down to a lower viscosity. The sheared remnants of the viscosity index improver polymers then tend to form sludge. Motor oil really isn't very good gear oil. I like the Lexus 4.7 oil filter, the Toyota 90915-20004. Check various local and on-line Toyota and Lexus dealers for the best price. Really tough differential oil?...Schaeffer #267 80W-90. Driveshaft grease points...Schaeffer #221--waterproof and won't sling out. Automatic transmission...if Dexron III, Schaeffer #204S. Transfer case & front diff...Mobil 1 or Amsoil 75W-90. Power steering...Schaeffer #204S ATF. (If my recommendations are different from your owner's manual, come back here with those specs.) Don't forget to flush and renew your antifreeze every two years, as well as flushing and renewing the brake fluid biannually, also. Ken [ May 16, 2003, 11:30 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
 
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GManII, It sure does sound painful. I am guessing you were able to make sense of it in context. English is my second language and without spell check on the site you might want to expect this frequently. I am not about to type the post in a word document just to spell check. I was taught english with a phonics based system so I do have spelling issues. The only positive to phonics is that I can read and right in 3 different language . I can also speak them. Luckily I can speak all three with perfect dialect and inflection so while I do not write them well I can speak like a native!! English has been my primary language since third grade but spelling still gives me alot of trouble. I made it through college with spell check and good proof readers. Changeing the filter every 12,000 miles is well under the sever service schedule. A new filter every 12,000 is cheap insurance against infiltration of forign matter. You really do not gain any efficency with a dirty paper filter like you do with oiled guaze. Why would you not want him to change his filter?????? The important thing is that my content is usualy good and constructive for the most part. I speak from hands on experinces and seek to help people. You on the other hand seem to be destructive and hateful unless I am mis-interperting your posts. You are content only when badgering people of differing views. I am not going away and am not intimadated by your school boy antics!! If wish to correct me then do so and explain yourself! This way not only do I get corrected but other get to learn something as well! I do not know why you insist in makeing this personel but so be it! I will just ignore your future replys if you want to be childish. [bowdown]
 

Patman

Staff member
Messages
21,988
Location
Oakville, Ontario
quote:
Originally posted by buster: I'd go with either one. M1 0w-40 has a Ht/Hs of 3.6 as well. It tends to thin out a bit. The Castrol looks nice. Patman, is the Castrol a group IV?
Most definitely! With it's -78F pour point there is no way it's group 3. And John, I don't think GMan meant any harm by his comments, he was just being funny.
 

vaphilly

Thread starter
Messages
16
Location
Philadelphia PA
Thanks for all your comments guys... I am using already the -20004 Toyota filter, got it through my local Lexus dealer. Also thanks for the comments regarding shearing oil in Toyo engines, this was very helpfull. I wished that more of the MB 229.5 5W-30 oils are available in the States, as it is now, I am thinking primarly to switch to M1 0W-40 after 5K miles, but I would take another look at Scheaffers oils, I think a couple of them are 229.3 approved. This board is great
 
Messages
8,937
Location
SC
quote:
Originally posted by JohnBrowning: GManII, It sure does sound painful. I am guessing you were able to make sense of it in context. English is my second language and without spell check on the site you might want to expect this frequently. I am not about to type the post in a word document just to spell check. I was taught english with a phonics based system so I do have spelling issues. The only positive to phonics is that I can read and right in 3 different language . I can also speak them. Luckily I can speak all three with perfect dialect and inflection so while I do not write them well I can speak like a native!! English has been my primary language since third grade but spelling still gives me alot of trouble. I made it through college with spell check and good proof readers. Changeing the filter every 12,000 miles is well under the sever service schedule. A new filter every 12,000 is cheap insurance against infiltration of forign matter. You really do not gain any efficency with a dirty paper filter like you do with oiled guaze. Why would you not want him to change his filter?????? The important thing is that my content is usualy good and constructive for the most part. I speak from hands on experinces and seek to help people. You on the other hand seem to be destructive and hateful unless I am mis-interperting your posts. You are content only when badgering people of differing views. I am not going away and am not intimadated by your school boy antics!! If wish to correct me then do so and explain yourself! This way not only do I get corrected but other get to learn something as well! I do not know why you insist in makeing this personel but so be it! I will just ignore your future replys if you want to be childish. [bowdown]
First off, I'd say yes, you are misinterpreting my posts. If I think someone is full of it, I'm usually pretty direct in saying so. But it's not born of malice or hatred. Second, I'm the last person who would criticize anyone over typos and misspellings, given the number of them I make myself. Third, my comment about your original spelling of "orginal" was simply meant as off-color humor, nothing more. If you were offended, I apologize. Fourth, there have been quite a few studies done that show the LEAST efficient air filter is a NEW one, and it takes a few thousand miles of use for the filter to reach its max efficiency, which it will hold for the normal service interval. That was the basis of my comment about 12k being too soon to change it.
 
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18,449
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East of IGO
John Browining, interesting in that I have worked on cars and trucks ,forklifts and backhoes,. I have taken classes as needed to keep up with the technology. We can get excited about just learning that air filters become more efficient as it becomes loaded with dirt and other stuff . It,s been known for many years in the heavy duty industrial field by those in the know. Experience as you have shared is so valuable because IMO you have been there done that ,etc. Above all remember this is, lubrication conversation. [ May 19, 2003, 10:37 AM: Message edited by: Steve S ]
 
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Duvall WA - Pacific NW USA
Firstly - Bob turned us on to iespell Internet spell checker sometime back, It works GREAT!!! - Listen, my Mum is a former English teacher and I still struggle with spelling - but that is maybe because my learning different languages as well (try shifting from putonghua to portuguese).. As for oil - use a good synthetic 5W-30 and change at 5K. Not sure I have seen a good UOA with the BMW oil.
 
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1,306
Location
Scottsdale, AZ
vaphilly, Look under the favorite links section for the thread "Buy Toyota OEM parts for less". You should be able to get filters for much less than the Lexus dealer, especially if you buy a few at a time. [Cheers!] Toy4x4
 
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7,775
Location
Oklahoma
Ken2, change and flush brake fluid "biannually?" Is this for Toyota only? Or your recommendation for all vehicles??? [Confused]
 
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