Toyota 3.5 startup noise and oil weight

[mrdctaylor]

It may seem silly to ask about a problem I don't have, but anyway....

I have a 2012 Toyota Highlander with the 3.5L V6. I've heard that these engines sometimes develop a startup noise/rattle. I've yet to experience this. It has 95K miles on it and I've always used the recommended 0W20. I have enough 0W20 oil on-hand to take me to about 130K miles. After that, I was thinking of going with 5W30 synthetic since that is what I put in all of my other cars. I'm just curious if there is a consensus as to whether or not a thicker oil might potentially cause this noise or if it is a cure for this noise. Like I said, my engine does not do this but I don't want to go to a thicker oil if that increases the chances that it will exhibit this problem.

Thanks in advance!

 

[CharBaby]

I think that most engines that experience startup rattle is due to inadequate oil filter ADBV.
Also, if you do change to 5W30 synthetic oil, use it only in the hottest part of your TX summer. Otherwise, stay with what you've been doing with the 0W20.

 

[supton]

I wonder if it's just the VVT rattling back and forth, until oil pressure comes up, or if it's the ECU testing to make sure VVT is working fine? I think mine do that. But if nothing has started, then I'd not worry about it. Seems like, if it was a real issue, there'd be knowledge of it by now. You know, others reporting it, and mechanics "in the know" showing how it's somehow related to water-thin 0W20.

I've started using 10W30 and 5W30 in my two 'yotas and I think they tap a bit less. Probably subjective. Might go back to 0W20 over the winter. I doubt it makes difference either way. IMO, overseas markets run xW30 w/o problem, and NA runs 0W20 w/o problem, thus it's a non-issue in something that isn't towing at max limit all the time. Use what floats your boat.

 

[ka9mnx]

Some 3.4 Toyotas devoled cold start piston slap. I don't know about the 3.5.

 

[millerbl00]

Stay with 0w-20. Thicker will cause other problems. Mine is noisy at 70000 miles but UOA is perfect.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by millerbl00
Stay with 0w-20. Thicker will cause other problems. Mine is noisy at 70000 miles but UOA is perfect.

Like what?

 

[StevieC]

Do you have the Toyota Cartridge filter design on your 3.5 like I do? If so try a Toyota OEM filter for one change and see if that fixes the problem. If not it could be the cartridge housing cap that the filter sits in, it is spring loaded for bypass and if this spring is weak which can happen with repeated engine heat/cool cycles it can cause the oil to drain back after shutdown.

 

[mrdctaylor]

I don't actually have the problem. I'm just trying to determine if changing from 0W20 to 5W30 might cause the problem to start.

 

[Overfill]

From what I had read, when the 3.5L V6 (2GR-FE) was first released in vehicles, it specified to use 5w-30. Owners manuals on later models then said to use 5w20. I don't remember anyone in the forums finding anything changed in design to the motor that then would better accommodate a 20 weight.

IMHO, if you don't revv it out much beyond 3k, many 20 weights should be ok for a long interval.
I noticed tick noise with 20 and 30 weights, but not an explicit concern!
The tick noise got more prominent after ~5k on 5w30. Tick noise was very prominent/ noisy with the 5w20.
In the dead heat of summer down here, I switched to 40 weight.
I also revv mine out (once warm) because I enjoy the spirited ride, and want the protection at high ambient heat + sustained high engine speed.
No noise (tick, slap, nor chain start-up clatter---which I, too, read about) with the 40 weight this summer.
The majority (~80%) of my driving experience with this vehicle/ engine is highway miles.
Once winter comes around, I switch back to a 30 weight.

 

[Onetor]

I read my owner's manual and follow what the engineers recommend.

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by Onetor
I read my owner's manual and follow what the engineers recommend.

You mean what the manufacturer recommends. How do you know that's the same thing as the engineers?

 

[bionictony]

i put pennzoil ultra 5w-30 in mine with toyota oil filter and its running great for 1300 miles so far. i think the aftermarket ones with end caps may block some flow but the trd oil filter has metal end caps. maybe end caps don't matter.

 

[StevieC]

I don't think it matters. I have the Amsoil EA oil filter in there now and it has metal endcaps but there is a lot of space around the filter in the housing so it should be fine.

 

[CharBaby]

Originally Posted by mrdctaylor
I don't actually have the problem. I'm just trying to determine if changing from 0W20 to 5W30 might cause the problem to start.


Well there is only one way to find out.

 

[RTexasF]

Odd that all RAV4 3.5l V-6 engines have ONE oil recommendation........5W30.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Originally Posted by RTexasF
Odd that all RAV4 3.5l V-6 engines have ONE oil recommendation........5W30.


Agree...... but they don't say it's Mandatory ....or Warranty Denied otherwise. So it's a flexible wording.

 

[Dyusik]

The 2grs used to unbolt their cams with the rattling. It was later corrected, mine doesn't do it. My 4gr does, but the TSB only covered the 2gr, apparently they are the only ones grenading from the cam rattle.

 

[matt36415]

It is not an oil issue. It is the vvti locking pin not engaging on shutdown. Look at the toyota nation forum, camry, gen6 which has the 2grfe 3.5 engine that you seem to have. Lots of info there.

 

[rummy]

Here's my UOA on my 3.5L V6 (2GR-FE) Highlander.

M1 10W-30 HM.

2008 Highlander 3.5L V6

Outstanding wear numbers. The engine didn't blow up. The engine calls for 5W-30, but I'm a rebel, lol. Currently running 0W-40.

Listen, it's your car. Run whatever makes you sleep well at night. There is nothing wrong with 0W-20, as you can attest. If you don't like it, then move up a grade. I would recommend Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30, good resource conserving oil in the 30-grade oil.

Again, I'm no expert.

No rattle problems for me. As mentioned above, there is a pin that doesn't engage sometimes that causes this horrible rattle at start-up periodically.

 

[millerbl00]

The timing chain tensioner has problems with anything above 0w-20. UOA will not pick that up until the tensioner fails