Toyota 3.3L no crank

[DuckRyder]

Sigh, if it won't crank (meaning turn over) the fuel pump has nothing to do with that... if it won't start (ie: it turns over/spins but won't actually run) it might be the fuel pump.

Information - clear and concise - <yoda voice> need it to help you we do </yoda voice>

 

[VK56VD]

Try another key. Perhaps the immobilizer system issue?

 

[JMJNet]

Battery needs to be LOAD test not voltage test.
I have cases where battery still provide good voltage but unable to crank.
Start with that before doing anything else.

 

[Chris142]

Nothing happens w/ the ignition in ON and cranked - its like its doesn't want to turn over. I will get the starter out and get it tested.

Put a volt meter on the battery cable at the starter. Turn the key to start and let us know what the voltage reads.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Put a volt meter on the battery cable at the starter. Turn the key to start and let us know what the voltage reads.

With the lights off, the voltage at the starter with car off was 12.5v and when put into ON position it was 12.1v

 

[Chris142]

With the lights off, the voltage at the starter with car off was 12.5v and when put into ON position it was 12.1v

Now turn the key

 

[MaximaGuy]

Now turn the key

Nothing happens!! Its dead in the water

 

[GSCJR]

The large cable on the starter should have battery voltage at all times and the small cable will only have battery voltage while cranking (key in the START position). Did the engine possibly seize?

 

[GSCJR]

With the lights off, the voltage at the starter with car off was 12.5v and when put into ON position it was 12.1v

You're checking the incorrect terminal. Read my previous post.

 

[Chris142]

Nothing happens!! Its dead in the water

What's the meter say when you turn the key to start?

 

[bullwinkle]

Need to put on a pair of gloves & turn pulleys, or a big socket & breaker bar on the balancer bolt head & try to turn it over. If it's locked up, all the starters & batteries in the world won't help.

 

[meep]

The starter needs voltage in two places to crank. The large bolt from the battery (+) needs solid, clean power from the battery. It should always be energized. a smaller “normal size” wire should be energized with 12 from the switch/ecu to energize the solenoid. When the solenoid hits (CLACK) it also connects power internally to the spinning motor itself. Identifying what is happening here will guide you on the right path.

 

[MaximaGuy]

You're checking the incorrect terminal. Read my previous post.

Nothing is coming through that 1 pin connector to the starter (no voltage is seen on the connector pin in START position)

 

[tcp71]

Nothing is coming through that 1 pin connector to the starter (no voltage is seen on the connector pin in START position)

Ok, that means the starter isn't getting the signal to do anything. Now you need to work backwards from the starter through the relays and fuses to see if they are being energized. Forget the fuel pump for now until the engine spins over from the starter. Is there a little red light shaped like a key somewhere in the dash? If that is flashing or solid it means the ECU isn't recognizing the chip in the key. Have you tried another key? They have an RFID chip in there.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Swapped the fan relay with the starter relay and boom it jumped back to life!! Thanks gentlemen for you much helpful advice in troubleshooting the power supply !