Toro 21” Commercial Suzuki 2 Stroke Lawnmower?

Repaired a jiffy ice auger two stroke for a neighbor and for the heck of it I wound the cord in the opposite direction and it started and ran fine.
Nice, I'm actually working on one of these today for a neighbor. I'll try to remember to grab pics of it when I get home, it's a 1987 and basically in brand new condition. It was inherited from a family member and probably only has 1-2 hours of use on it. The carb diaphragm is hard as a rock from sitting.
 
All of my push mowers are magnesium deck Lawn-Boy mowers. Nothing compares in thick grass and on steep slopes. I have 5 of them now . One of them was bought just to look at. I was produced with all the goodies that were available and the paint is still like new.
 
All of my push mowers are magnesium deck Lawn-Boy mowers. Nothing compares in thick grass and on steep slopes. I have 5 of them now . One of them was bought just to look at. I was produced with all the goodies that were available and the paint is still like new.
Much prefer the OMC built lawn boys over the newer toro built garbage.
 
I never seen or knew that two strokes were on lawnmowers. Anyone have any information or used one etc. The history and or story behind something like this? This is a local ad for sale - they are looking for 1000 bucks for this lawnmower. I'll give them it does look clean and brand new, is this two-stroke lawnmower really worth $1000? No I am not interested in buying it I'm just curious on something like this I would like to learn a little more about it.
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Years ago perhaps around 1990 I had a Toro 2 stroke with the GTS engine (Suzuki I think). It was light weight, and powerful. I wound up selling it to get a Toro 4 stroke Recycler. I wanted to mulch. It was also a great machine but felt like a tank after owning the 2 Stroke for years.
 
Years ago perhaps around 1990 I had a Toro 2 stroke with the GTS engine (Suzuki I think). It was light weight, and powerful. I wound up selling it to get a Toro 4 stroke Recycler. I wanted to mulch. It was also a great machine but felt like a tank after owning the 2 Stroke for years.
I've seen a few youtube videos of people who have swapped 2-stroke Suzuki engines from earlier models onto newer Toro Super Recyclers with personal pace. Seems like a great combo of a lightweight, torquey mower with easy to use self-propel system and good mulching ability.
 
Toro makes an excellent lawn mower. But I would not want one with a 2 cycle engine unless it for "for display only".
I mow every week with my now 47 year old Lawn-Boy 5024 Bricktop. Still fires up on the first or second pull.
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L8R,
Matt
 
I have the exact same mower and it's a gem. I bought a Honda Commercial mower 2 weeks before I found the Toro on FB Marketplace. The Honda bags much better but the Toro is a better mulcher. The Toro is also much lighter being aluminum and easier to manuver.
 
I had a similar Suzuki 2 stroke on a Toro single stage snowthrower. Wonderful little machine. Ignition coils could be a problem on them too. IIRC, you could retrofit the coil with a much less expensive 'aftermarket' option if you chose to. Might be wrong on that. It's been some time since I followed OPE.

With that particular mower, it's not just about the engine IMO. Look at the quality of the cast deck, how the handles attach, the hardware, etc.. That's as good as it gets.
 
Repaired a jiffy ice auger two stroke for a neighbor and for the heck of it I wound the cord in the opposite direction and it started and ran fine.
2 stroke snowmobiles run backwards for a reverse ''gear'' function. Select reverse and engine stalls and PCM restarts running backwards.
 
yes the swap can be made . nothing has changed in this regaurd on these. i have done dozens of these swaps on these. the worst part is removing the blade adaptor.
Hi, this is exactly where the shop I'm having this worked on have run into a huge problem with this. They absolutely cannot get that blade adapter off. Are these things prone to becoming super-seized or something? It's been hit with multiple different penetrants, including Ferrosol (which I applied liberally). It's been heated with a torch at least twice, and the had some kind of pulley-pulling mechanism attached to it to try to remove it. It will not come off after days of trying. Are they missing something they need to specifically be doing to remove this? Next up, I ordered some CRC Freeze off and Knock ér loose to try. If all it is is seized from rust, after that I'm going to bring them a block of dry ice, have them apply that to the crankshaft, and then hit the adapter itself with a torch, maybe the extreme temp differences on each end with shrink/expand the metal enough to break this thing loose. It's just unreal. Any help would be appreciated.
 
It looks new in that photo and with the quality reputation and collectability it very well may be worth it.

Around 1990 I bought a new, top of the line lawnboy (2-stroke with oil injection that is a gas tank and oil tank, blade brake control, self propelled, magnesium deck, all the bells and whistles) and it retailed for over $700 then. I called it "The Hog" because you couldn't bog it down. Unfortunately the user engagement system for the drive axle and the blade brake were not up to the standards of the rest of the mower. After about 6 years the self propel broke and then a few years later the blade brake broke - both due to handle/engagement systems that relied on plastic pivot & cam pieces. Replacemect parts were over $200 and I wasn't paying that to fix a 10 year old mower, especially with identically weak parts. Pity because that engine was outstanding.
 
Hi, this is exactly where the shop I'm having this worked on have run into a huge problem with this. They absolutely cannot get that blade adapter off. Are these things prone to becoming super-seized or something? It's been hit with multiple different penetrants, including Ferrosol (which I applied liberally). It's been heated with a torch at least twice, and the had some kind of pulley-pulling mechanism attached to it to try to remove it. It will not come off after days of trying. Are they missing something they need to specifically be doing to remove this? Next up, I ordered some CRC Freeze off and Knock ér loose to try. If all it is is seized from rust, after that I'm going to bring them a block of dry ice, have them apply that to the crankshaft, and then hit the adapter itself with a torch, maybe the extreme temp differences on each end with shrink/expand the metal enough to break this thing loose. It's just unreal. Any help would be appreciated.
I reiterate, use an air chisel, the blade adapter will come right off. I have removed hundreds of them this way.
 
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