Top rate non-synthetic 80W90 hypoid oils ?

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My friends about to change out his rear diff on 98 camaro v8, I think it have Auburn Gear limited-slip differential, and it require non synthetic 80w-90, I told him I been use valvoline, castrol and now im using lucas 80w90. He daily drive it year round, and he live right by me, and it not too cold here. he is kind of person where he not want to change out early, mabe 50k miles or something. What do you guy recomment something that protect for everyday drive and last 50k miles or so. Will AMSOIL SG 75w-90 or redline 75w90 be ok for diff that not recomment synthetic ?
 
reason I ask this question for him, because I know I change out year round, and he properly going to put in something and forget it for the rest of the car.
 
All you have to do is buy the synthetic, and use a Sharpie to cover the word synthetic anywhere on the bottle.

Any 80w90 will work. Add LSD additive as needed.
 
Originally Posted By: unDummy
All you have to do is buy the synthetic, and use a Sharpie to cover the word synthetic anywhere on the bottle.

Any 80w90 will work. Add LSD additive as needed.



Are you foreal ? so you say synth is ok where none synthetic is require ? Im current running 80w90 lucas, wonder its too thick or not ? and since this lucas already have the lsd in it already.
 
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T-56 You said NON synthetic, but then stated two full synthetics as your choices!


I'd use a full synthetic unless I had a concrete reason not to.
 
Pennzoil, Shell, Valvoline, Castrol, and Mobil all make excellent 80W-90 mineral gear oils and any of them will easily go past 50K. Pick your favorite brand.
 
In your area, and especially with our weak 10 bolt, 7.65" ring & pinion rear axles, he could use a mineral 85W-140.

This would also have the added benefit of maybe not shearing down as quickly, nor as much as a mineral 80W-90, since you feel he is going to use it as a 'lifetime fill'.

He might notice a very slight decrease in fuel mileage, as well as a basically imperceptable loss of torque at the rear wheels.

As far as the shear factor above, others with much more knowledge than I, will have to come on and confirm or deny the plausibility of that theory, as there may be so many more V.I. improvers in the heavier gear oils it may actually shear down quicker than the lighter stuff.
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Originally Posted By: unDummy
Chevron Delo ESI or any full synthetic 75w90 or 75w110



Delo ESI is the best mineral based gear oil I've ever seen data on. Its also one of the only non-boutique lubes I've seen where they state it can lead to cooler running, which is saying a lot as Chevron is very conservative about making such statements. A Very well developed product.

http://nelsonpetroleum.com/images/delogear.pdf

• Lower operating temperatures — Unique additive
chemistry reduces friction resulting in cooler operating
temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
If it specifically says not to use synthetic (which I don't know why) don't use synthetic, any name brand will suffice for 50k.


The Auburn Cone clutch (old Borg Warner / Chrysler Sure Grip design) is not recommended for use with synthetic lube. I believe the cone clutches have issues "grabbing" if the lube is real slick, in laymans terms. This is whats in the old Camaro I think. Service manual here:

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/document_listing.aspx?app=0&id=46613b56-ce27-4e83-b808-9a0c543e09b9&pn=document_categories&returnurl=/aftermarket/document_categories.aspx%3fcurrentpage%3d0%26pagesize%3d20
 
The issue is someone at Auburn was offended by a synthetic boutique manufacturer and hence has 'banned' the word synthetic and created all this anti-synthetic hysteria.

The ONLY issue with the Auburns that I've seen is not enough LSD additive. Pretty common because some brands of synthetic require extra even though they are dosed with it. Stupid installers don't add the extra LSD additive that is needed and continue the anti synthetic ignorance. Sorry, it has nothing to do with "slickness"

dailydriver makes a good point.

If the negligent fool doesn't want to ever maintain that POS rear end again, use a 140 weight gear oil.
 
I'm another that thinks this aversion to synthetics is hogwash.

I also like the Chevron Delo ESI 80W-90 ... I just filled my Honda S2000's tiny diff with this stuff.
 
Originally Posted By: BBDartCA
Originally Posted By: unDummy
Chevron Delo ESI or any full synthetic 75w90 or 75w110



Delo ESI is the best mineral based gear oil I've ever seen data on. Its also one of the only non-boutique lubes I've seen where they state it can lead to cooler running, which is saying a lot as Chevron is very conservative about making such statements. A Very well developed product.

http://nelsonpetroleum.com/images/delogear.pdf


It looks like very good product, and I'm sure it is top notch (I might even try it if I ever go back to dino gear oil).
But the 25 cSt @ 100*C seems a little low for a mineral based 85W-140 (it's right in there with most synthetics of this grade). Others, such as Torco RGO 85w-140 have about a 33-35 cSt.
I wonder why?

Yes, I know there is much more to the story than cSts @ 100 (Brookfields, etc.), but I am wondering if there is a reason for this?
 
Probably a bit low at temp for visc because it is stout gear oil. Some of the others will share down a ton quickly. So, would you rather have a gear oil that goes from 35cst to 20cst in 50k miles, or from 25cst to 20cst?

Viscosity is sometimes a bandaid for the additive package. ESI might be thinner, but I'd wager it'd kick some butt compared to the other 'thicker' 85w140's out there.
 
I have a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500 with an Auburn LSD. I ran Redline 75W90 NS mixed with 3oz / quart Ford friction modifier. It performed well with no usual sounds. I ran this for approx 500 miles. No further report on the redline product. I emailed Amsoil about their product. A return email stated the 75W90 severe gear would work just fine in my Auburn. So I tried it as well. Amsoil also stated only to add FM if needed. And add only enough to eliminate the chatter. So I did just that. With the Amsoil product the rear LSD starting scraping so bad. I thought the rear end was going to fall out of the truck. It was really bad. I thought I might have to tow the truck! After adding 4 oz bottle of FM the scrapping grinding noise was reduced considerably. But still noticeable. I ended up putting another 4 ozs of FM in 1 oz increments to eliminate the noise in forward gear. In reverse the grinding/ scrapping was still evident. So after 8 ozs Fm I was still getting the scrapping noise in reverse. So I drained that out.
I have also used Kendall and Chevron ESI 80W90 and Shell Spirax 80W140 with no problems
If anybody used Synthetics in there Auburn for an extended period of time? Please post up. I would like to hear your experience.
 
For years I changed my own rear end gear oil w/ Mobil-1 starting at 30K. On my Dodge P/U - I was busy & had 30k done at a Shell Quick Lube. At 60K it was growling. Went to a four wheel drive shop who does only diffs and xfer cases etc. They pulled the cover and the clean oil fell out like water. If not for the smell, I'd have said it was hyd fluid. Every gear (ring, pinion, spiders etc) were fully worn out - smooth and no heat checking. Even the pins were wore out, and no metal could be seen in the clear bottle the Gear Heads catch fluids in. This was a bulk Shell - I had not kept my receipt. DIY for me.
 
Hi guys, I havent been active on BITOG, so busy with work ^^. Here my 2 choice, i been using on preview camaro and mustang with good result.
valvoline 80w90 and valvoline 80w90 synthetic blend. with ford friction lsd. Im thinking using synthectic blend with ford friction lsd, since this will be his life time fluid change.

any one have any UOA on dino 80w90 gear oil that last over 50k miles, with good result ? pls post it here. THANKS !!!
 
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