Timing belt replacement
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Originally Posted By: Kira
It's early and I have to get out the door so I'll be brief.
Turn the cranksft so the marks line up then go past another 3/4 turn then GO BACKWARDS to line up the marks.
This brings the vvt system back to its "0".
Mine stayed put without aid the second time I did it but the first time I did it I tied the 2 cam sprockets together (before I removed the belt) with stout twine and had no problems.
When I return home I'll look at the video but I gotta run like a dear now. Cheers, Kira
So you're saying to turn the crankshaft clockwise an extra 3/4 of a turn (so basically 12:00-9:00) and then back counter clockwise to the correct position?
It's early and I have to get out the door so I'll be brief.
Turn the cranksft so the marks line up then go past another 3/4 turn then GO BACKWARDS to line up the marks.
This brings the vvt system back to its "0".
Mine stayed put without aid the second time I did it but the first time I did it I tied the 2 cam sprockets together (before I removed the belt) with stout twine and had no problems.
When I return home I'll look at the video but I gotta run like a dear now. Cheers, Kira
So you're saying to turn the crankshaft clockwise an extra 3/4 of a turn (so basically 12:00-9:00) and then back counter clockwise to the correct position?
Just finished doing a TB + tensioner pulley + idler pulley and a new gasket on the WP, on the sled (98 V70). It was my first time. Your motor is different and probably has VVT. Mine doesn't.
I left the crank pulley alone. Lined up the marks, then cut off the old belt to save time. As an experiment, I tried moving both camshafts with my hands. The intake wouldn't move at all. The exhaust did move with some effort a few degrees, so I just moved it back. I didn't use any tool to lock the camshafts.
After slipping on the new belt, I was off by about 4 teeth on the exhaust cam. So I pulled it off and rotated it back into position. Put the belt back on. This time I was off 1 tooth. Repeat. The third time I was lined up. Turned the crank over twice and I was still lined up. So I pulled the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner, let it expand for a few minutes and turned the crank over two more times. All OK.
Astro is correct about the pulley bearings causing a problem instead of the belt. The fact is belt breakage is very, very rare by itself. It's not just rubber, it's a steel belt incased in rubber from what I understand. On my recent change, the TB was beginning to slide off the idler pulley about 3/16". Good thing I caught it when I did. After pulling the belt & pulleys, I discovered that the idler bearings weren't loose, but they were beginning to dry out. The pulley would spin about 6 sec when spun by hand. The tensioner pulley bearing was a loose and would spin about 30 sec! Shouldn't do that...at all.
After replacing the belt + two pulleys with geniune Volvo parts from a dealer, the TB is back to correctly tracking.
Re your final Q: No, the cams + crank are not free to move. My crank never moved, neither did the intake cam, only the exhaust with some considerable effort. I was a bit worried about this as well being my first TB, but it's OK.
I left the crank pulley alone. Lined up the marks, then cut off the old belt to save time. As an experiment, I tried moving both camshafts with my hands. The intake wouldn't move at all. The exhaust did move with some effort a few degrees, so I just moved it back. I didn't use any tool to lock the camshafts.
After slipping on the new belt, I was off by about 4 teeth on the exhaust cam. So I pulled it off and rotated it back into position. Put the belt back on. This time I was off 1 tooth. Repeat. The third time I was lined up. Turned the crank over twice and I was still lined up. So I pulled the pin out of the hydraulic tensioner, let it expand for a few minutes and turned the crank over two more times. All OK.
Astro is correct about the pulley bearings causing a problem instead of the belt. The fact is belt breakage is very, very rare by itself. It's not just rubber, it's a steel belt incased in rubber from what I understand. On my recent change, the TB was beginning to slide off the idler pulley about 3/16". Good thing I caught it when I did. After pulling the belt & pulleys, I discovered that the idler bearings weren't loose, but they were beginning to dry out. The pulley would spin about 6 sec when spun by hand. The tensioner pulley bearing was a loose and would spin about 30 sec! Shouldn't do that...at all.
After replacing the belt + two pulleys with geniune Volvo parts from a dealer, the TB is back to correctly tracking.
Re your final Q: No, the cams + crank are not free to move. My crank never moved, neither did the intake cam, only the exhaust with some considerable effort. I was a bit worried about this as well being my first TB, but it's OK.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I am a bit more at ease now.
I was going to attempt the job this weekend, but since I realized i needed the tool, I went ahead and ordered it and it'll most likely get here early next week.
I have a Volvo parts for the TB job btw.
I was going to attempt the job this weekend, but since I realized i needed the tool, I went ahead and ordered it and it'll most likely get here early next week.
I have a Volvo parts for the TB job btw.
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I also put a belt on my 98 S70, and that went OK. But I left my local shop put on my 2001 V70 because of the different camshaft. It ran OK when I got it back, but it thru a code a couple days later. They had to "redo" the timing belt, as it was one tooth off.
Here's a photo of my old TB walking off the idler pulley:
Can't see the belt ribs because the motor was moving when the photo was taken. This was a bad sign.
This photo was taken after the TB, tensioner & idler pulleys were replaced and the motor had been on awhile:
Wish I was able to get it closer towards the block, but that's where it runs.
I would advise you to put your pulleys to an ear and then spin it by hand. If you hear anything, you need another one. Furthermore, there should be no play at all in the bearings. I checked a brand-new-in-the-box INA pulley locally and it failed both tests: It rumbled and was loose.
I checked both in the Volvo box (also made by INA) and they were quiet and tight.
Can't see the belt ribs because the motor was moving when the photo was taken. This was a bad sign.
This photo was taken after the TB, tensioner & idler pulleys were replaced and the motor had been on awhile:
Wish I was able to get it closer towards the block, but that's where it runs.
I would advise you to put your pulleys to an ear and then spin it by hand. If you hear anything, you need another one. Furthermore, there should be no play at all in the bearings. I checked a brand-new-in-the-box INA pulley locally and it failed both tests: It rumbled and was loose.
I checked both in the Volvo box (also made by INA) and they were quiet and tight.
Originally Posted By: sleddriver
Here's a photo of my old TB walking off the idler pulley:
Can't see the belt ribs because the motor was moving when the photo was taken. This was a bad sign.
This photo was taken after the TB, tensioner & idler pulleys were replaced and the motor had been on awhile:
Wish I was able to get it closer towards the block, but that's where it runs.
I would advise you to put your pulleys to an ear and then spin it by hand. If you hear anything, you need another one. Furthermore, there should be no play at all in the bearings. I checked a brand-new-in-the-box INA pulley locally and it failed both tests: It rumbled and was loose.
I checked both in the Volvo box (also made by INA) and they were quiet and tight.
Thanks for the pics.
If youre referring to the idler pulley and tensioner, those came new with the kit.
This is the kit I bought for her car.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-timing-belt-kit-timing-belt-idler-pulley-tensioner-30758261
*So you were or werent able to keep the new belt from walking off the pulley?
Here's a photo of my old TB walking off the idler pulley:
Can't see the belt ribs because the motor was moving when the photo was taken. This was a bad sign.
This photo was taken after the TB, tensioner & idler pulleys were replaced and the motor had been on awhile:
Wish I was able to get it closer towards the block, but that's where it runs.
I would advise you to put your pulleys to an ear and then spin it by hand. If you hear anything, you need another one. Furthermore, there should be no play at all in the bearings. I checked a brand-new-in-the-box INA pulley locally and it failed both tests: It rumbled and was loose.
I checked both in the Volvo box (also made by INA) and they were quiet and tight.
Thanks for the pics.
If youre referring to the idler pulley and tensioner, those came new with the kit.
This is the kit I bought for her car.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-timing-belt-kit-timing-belt-idler-pulley-tensioner-30758261
*So you were or werent able to keep the new belt from walking off the pulley?
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Some don't replace those two pulleys with every new belt. I wondered about it myself. However, I wanted to pull the belt & spin the pulleys to check for noise and loose-ness. Good thing I did in this case!
Good choice on your TB kit. You'll be fine with that.
The new belt is tracking fine, as shown in photo #2.
Good choice on your TB kit. You'll be fine with that.
The new belt is tracking fine, as shown in photo #2.
Perhaps it's needless to say but whatever you do, make sure that the crankshaft and camshafts are perfectly aligned. Otherwise, the engine will run poorly or will not run at all. Refer to a repair manual for the proper alignment marks. Note that the crankshaft makes two turns when the camshafts make one turn (piston going up could be either compression or exhaust and piston going down could be either intake or expansion).
Some good advice up there.
Some good advice up there.
How did it go?
Originally Posted By: Astro14
How did it go?
I regretfully decided to wait until next weekend since I didnt have all the needed tools. I think I am good now though.
Crank holder
30mm socket
20" 1/2" socket extension
Bought a new Dayco belt and Mann air filter too.
Everything else I can think of tool wise, I should have.
______
Plus her door latch broke mid week and we had to dedicate an entire day of gluing and clamping..
Apparently, the door latch is a common issue.
How did it go?
I regretfully decided to wait until next weekend since I didnt have all the needed tools. I think I am good now though.
Crank holder
30mm socket
20" 1/2" socket extension
Bought a new Dayco belt and Mann air filter too.
Everything else I can think of tool wise, I should have.
______
Plus her door latch broke mid week and we had to dedicate an entire day of gluing and clamping..
Apparently, the door latch is a common issue.
Local Atlanta shop installed new timing belt (Gates) with water pump (Gates) and new tensioner, pulleys from ASIN (TKV-004) kit. The belt walks - it's a small axial movement about 1mm. You can see the belt hanging out over the edge of the tensioner pulley - about 1 mm. Car runs fine, no issues. Old Volvo belt was centered, it looks actually better than the new one from Gates. It was 10 years old and about 60 000 miles. I wonder if this lateral movement is acceptable? Is there some tolerance for the lateral movement? Anyone looked at their belt while the car is idling? Thanks for your comments!
Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds9b5X2Ik1Y
It's Volvo S70 98 Base
For impatient people:
Pictures of timing belt 0:00 to 1:30 minute
From 1:30 minute: Video showing the tension of the timing belt and later on: video of the belt while the car is running. Please slow down the video; you might be able to see the axial movement better.
Here is the link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ds9b5X2Ik1Y
It's Volvo S70 98 Base
For impatient people:
Pictures of timing belt 0:00 to 1:30 minute
From 1:30 minute: Video showing the tension of the timing belt and later on: video of the belt while the car is running. Please slow down the video; you might be able to see the axial movement better.
For one off jobs like this I have no problem buying something like this for under $50, its cheap enough to throw in the cabinet later. The Chicoms make lots of tools like this but if its something you do a lot of buy better quality.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Crankshaft-Camshaft-Cam-Engine-Alignment-Timing-Locking-Tool-Fixture-Kits/192931102265?hash=item2ceb96fe39:g:WJoAAOSwpchc7O8y
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-Crankshaft-Camshaft-Cam-Engine-Alignment-Timing-Locking-Tool-Fixture-Kits/192931102265?hash=item2ceb96fe39:g:WJoAAOSwpchc7O8y
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