Time for new water heater (non-automotive)?

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Water chemistry drives the life of water heater. 15 years I would not fudge with something that can potentially damage or worst destroy your home especially if you go away.

Sorry about the original comment, I thought it was known water heaters don't last forever.
 
My gas heater is 19 yrs old -- the original. I've done -0 maintenance to it. It works fine. It did have the dip tube replaced around year 5 -- free (recall or class action?).
 
Originally Posted By: leeharvey418
Tap water being low in minerals would actually be an indication of low pH, which is very bad for the water heater.


Oh yes, the "hungry" water theory. I first heard it on Car Talk and thought it was a joke until it checked it out. The local water company actually reports a number indicating how "hungry" water is.
 
Water heaters do eventually rust through.
That's how they usually fail.
In your case, I'll guess that either the incoming water pressure is way too high or the pressure relief valve is either weak or not seating properly.
A new water heater is not terribly costly or hard to install.
Asking the local water utility to check regulator pressure is free and if it's excessive they'll fix it for free. A new pressure relief valve on the tank is cheap and really easy to install.
New tank which probably will but might not fix the problem or diddle with the existing one?
Take your pick.
 
I got 16 years out of my water heater, it let go two years ago. Worst part was it was on the second floor, over the downstairs bathroom. Some brilliant builder did consider this, and had the tank sitting in a catch pan with a drain in case it leaked. Trouble was, it was a plastic pan, and 16 years of heat and weight cracked it. Not cool when I step in a puddle of water in the downstairs bath, and as I'm pondering where it came from I feel a drip on my head. New water heater, and a new aluminum catch pan to replace the plastic one.

That said, T&P valves can leak. I've lifted the lever to make sure it isn't stuck (you're supposed to do this periodically), and it started dripping after that.
 
My water heater is close to 20 years old. Soft water though the whole time. I drain a bit out of it a couple times a year with nothing to speak of coming out with the water. Had to replace the high pressure relief valve a few years ago.

I took the anode out too after a couple years as it was giving a sulfur smell to the hot water. It was in very tight and I had to lay the water heater down on it's side to get the leverage to break it loose. Impact wrench may work with it standing up.

It's a propane one and new ones are over 3 times what I paid for the original. $450 or so.
 
Originally Posted By: friendly_jacek
Oh yes, the "hungry" water theory...

Never heard of the 'hungry' water theory... I just know that minerals in water raise the pH, and restrict corrosion.
 
I have a nat gas heater that I installed in 2007. I bought an anode rod and wanted to replace regularly, but I couldn't for the life of me break the existing one loose. I tried a four foot breaker bar and my heavy electric impact wrench. All I succeeded in doing was shifting the heater around.

Seems to me that air impact may be the only alternative. My water is pretty hard. I get a very small amount of sediment out of it when I drain two gallons out of it every six months or so.

I replaced my previous one, which was a cheap builder grade unit, after eleven years due to the bubbling noise it was making any time the burner was on. That is due to layers of scale. It may have taken years longer to actually rust through, but the scale build up makes the heater far less efficient. Switching to a new, more expensive heater of the same capacity (40 gallons) improved recovery time and hot water capacity quite significantly.

With certain water conditions (i.e. my dad's house in Waco supplied by a community well with very soft water) the standard magnesium anode will produce sulfur dioxide. When he had one of his two heaters replaced this happened. Switching the magnesium anode with an aluminum anode took care of the issue.
 
I had to lay mine down and use the big breaker bar to loosen the original rod. Good tip on the aluminum rod. I'll remember that.
 
I am not willing to uninstall mine from the plumbing to lay it down. So, unless I decide to rent or borrow a compressor and impact wrench I'll have to hope that I still have a decent amount of anode rod left. The heater is a GE branded Rheem unit with 12 year warranty. In my neck of the woods anything beyond 10 years is pretty much borrowed time, anyway.
 
They might use loctite on the fitting. A torch might help looses that up. I really don't know why else that rod is so tight?
 
Might try a torch. I bought one of those segmented (bendable) anodes online. The installed heater is close to the ceiling. So, I'm stuck with the rod whether I use it or not.

I guess I could have just punched a hole in the ceiling - since it's the garage - rather than paying extra for the segmented rod.
 
^I need a strong Buddy, apparently, but I did see a DIY show in which it took two guys to break the thing loose. I have the correct size socket and slipped a steel pipe over my 1/2" drive breaker bar. So far, no dice.
 
A followup question. Are those pressure valves generic or need to match the specific heater model? The heater is OA Smith brand.
Thanks!
 
Went to Lowes and they have 2" and 3" deep ones. I didn't know which and left empty handed. I'll remove old one first and buy new one then.
 
I hit the jackpot today on a water heater from the 1920's sitting in a field for years at our family getaway. Copper!!!!!!

I think it weighs 150lbs+ so I will be visiting metal yard soon.

So apparently some last, this was replaced 15 years ago.
 
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