Time for an oil change, or an OIL CHANGE??

Messages
835
Location
Ohio
quote:
Originally posted by Al: As far as the Formato or Sure Drain valve-I don't like them bc I think they restrict flow and are vunerable to failure (probably I'm paranoid) [Smile]
I just bought a Fumoto valve but haven't installed it yet. How do you figure it restricts flow?
 
Messages
193
Location
Raleigh, NC
quote:
Originally posted by MarkC: Thanks guys. So is the Havoline made by Chevron the same oil as Chevron, or is it a different formula or something?
Nope. If you call them, they say the two brands are totally different. I personally use Chevron Supreme myself. I am pleased with the performance, and it has been helping me gently clean out my engine... Not to mention, it is only $1.08 at walmart, where you also can get a champ labs filter (Tech2000) for $2. If you still do not want to change the oil yourself, then take your oil and filter to their lube department, and have them use it. You will know how much oil goes in, because you will get the remainder of what you bought... That way, you get the best oil and filter, and you have the option of being lazy for cheaper than other quick lube places...
 
Messages
2,569
Location
College Dorm...
quote:
Originally posted by MarkC: They are good guys, though they **** me off by overfilling sometimes. $17 for the oil change. The guy across the street uses Castrol for $24 a pop plus $3 disposal fee. Sears uses Castrol, for $24 also. There's a Chevron place which charges $29.99 (but you get a free car wash). And there's also a place that uses Shell, for $20. Now, I hate to think of paying $24 or $29 every time. Maybe I will actually manage to start changing my own oil in the Jeep, though I don't hold out much hope for the Mitsubishi. Is it worth it to go for the $29 job for Chevron, or is the Havoline the same oil? Or stick with Castrol? Or any other suggestions.
I'm an oil junkie (welcome to the club!), and here is what I spent earlier today for my oil change: Oil Filter: $1.97 (SuperTech filter...actually a good filter!) Pennz. Long Life 15w-40 (5qts): $7.31 Subtotal: $9.28 Tax: .56 Total: $9.84
 
Messages
12
Location
MS
quote:
Originally posted by Drew99GT: One other thing to think about is the fact that oil change shops lubricate your chassis components as well; something that shouldn't be overlooked. Especially on a 4wd jeep. It is very easy to do however. Your jeep probably only has grease fittings for the ball joints on the tie rod ends. I'm assuming it's the four link solid axle in the front, which has no ball joints.
My '01 Cherokee with front diff has 5 zerk fittings. I don't say 4wd cause it ain't. Two wheel drive with front and rear diff unless lockers installed. While fast lubes might lube chassis fittings, they also don't mind blowing out rubber gaskets.
 
Messages
8,711
Location
Nothern USA
With all the horror stories here, if you have a place that hasn't done worse than an overfill, I wouldn't go elsewhere to save a few bucks. I haven't taken anything of mine for an oil change since before there were quick lube places. Depending what part of WA you are in, I would use something thinner than the 15W-40 unless your Jeep is already showing signs of wear. You need something that flows as soon as a cold engine starts.
 
Messages
2,569
Location
College Dorm...
quote:
Originally posted by MarkC: Um, if it's 2wd what's the front diff there for?
Unless you have a limited-slip or a locker, your 4-wheel drive vehicle is technically only two-wheel drive. For a "4wheel-drive vehicle": One traction device = 3-wheel drive Two traction devices = 4-wheel drive
 
Messages
9,461
Location
Not Seattle, but close.
Jelly: Gotcha. Just wasn't reading properly! Labman: I've always used 10W30, and see no reason not to. I'm just east of Seattle these days, though the "formative years" (0-38) were spent on the coast of North Carolina. 10W30 the whole time.(in my vehicles, not in me). The engine seems fine, but no UOA's to confirm it. I'm not looking to switch places to save bucks, I just don't know if I like their switching to Havoline, and I think if i'm going to switch, it'll be to Chevron. Thanks again.
 
Messages
22,188
Location
Colorado Springs
I think the term for a vehicle that only has a transfer case (with no center differential) that locks 50/50 front and rear is part time 4wd. Full time 4wd is where you can leave it in an "auto" mode where the transfer case has a differential that can spontanteously send more power to the front when slippage is detected. The best is like on the new Grand Cherokkes, where it has lockable differentials at both axles and at the transfer case. Then you can theoretically get all the power to the one wheel that is slipping. My freinds parents have a new Grand Cherokee and it's practically unstopable at fairly severe 4 wheeling.
 
quote:
Originally posted by labman: With all the horror stories here, if you have a place that hasn't done worse than an overfill, I wouldn't go elsewhere to save a few bucks.
Sorry, but I feel that an overfill is pretty serious. A few ounces won't hurt but a full qt. in a 4 qt. motor is a bad thing. I'd rather have them UNDERFILL, since I can easily fix that. I used to use Wally-World for my oil changes, but twice they left the drain plug loose and once overfilled by a quart. The stand alone quicky lubes aren't any better. If I have to crawl under the car to fix their screw-ups (or just check their work), I might as well do it myself and save some money in the process. And for the last 3 years I have been.
 
Messages
9,461
Location
Not Seattle, but close.
Okay, everybody, feel free to give me any and all thoughts and opinions. This may be asinine, but I am known to be somewhat of a jack at times, so thanks in advance. I use Castrol 10w30 in my Cherokee. My wife got a 1993 Mitsubishi Expo a few months ago, and who knows what's in the crankcase of that one? I haven't been changing my own oil, mainly because I don't want to, I'm lazy and my time is filled with things to do already. However, I was planning on getting either a Fumoto or Sure-Drain plug and having the guys at the garage install it when they change the oil this time around. Maybe for my wife's car, or maybe not...the filter on that thing is hidden away behind a lot of stuff and doesn't look too fun to get to. Anyway, the place I go to uses Castrol as well as Champion filters, but I always hand them a PureOne or a Napa Gold from my stash to use. They are good guys, though they **** me off by overfilling sometimes. $17 for the oil change. But now I learn that they have switched to Havoline oil. I don't know if this is the Chevron type or what. The guy across the street uses Castrol for $24 a pop plus $3 disposal fee. Sears uses Castrol, for $24 also. There's a Chevron place which charges $29.99 (but you get a free car wash). And there's also a place that uses Shell, for $20. Now, I hate to think of paying $24 or $29 every time. Maybe I will actually manage to start changing my own oil in the Jeep, though I don't hold out much hope for the Mitsubishi. But for next week's oil change adventures, I need to decide what to do. I don't have any complaints with Castrol after 88K miles, though I have been intrigued with the information about Chevron from this board. Assuming I do begin doing it myself(after this time) I can buy whatever I like and use, and can get Chevron, Castrol, whatever, pretty easily. But I predict the wife's little car will continue to be taken somewhere to have it done. The question is: Which place? I'd like to use the same oil for both cars. Is it worth it to go for the $29 job for Chevron, or is the Havoline the same oil? Or stick with Castrol? Or any other suggestions. I'm open, and desire everybody's opinions. I'm not interested in synthetic, and I always want to change the oil and filter at 3K. So, let me have it, and thanks again. [ October 06, 2003, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: MarkC ]
 

Al

Messages
19,154
Location
Elizabethtown, Pa
Personally Mark-since you are changing every 3K miles-I would have no problem with either oil. As far as the Formato or Sure Drain valve-I don't like them bc I think they restrict flow and are vunerable to failure (probably I'm paranoid) As far as changing the oil on the Mitsubishi. Don't let it intimidate you. Yea-the first time it may be difficult-but after that it will be easy. It's amazing what your hands and fingers learn to do. I can say in the past 40 years I have had some of the worst to remove. Get this wrench:  - You can buy it HERE or locally. [Smile]
 
Messages
6,388
Location
Washington St.
All Havoline is made by ChevronTexaco unless there's some really old stock on some store's shelf. All the oils you name are good. You don't mention your driving style and conditions. Any of these oils @ 3000 mile ODI in town driving is OK, as they would be @ 5000 mile ODI and highway driving. Pick the shop that has the best workers. Ken [ October 06, 2003, 12:34 PM: Message edited by: Ken2 ]
 
Messages
7
Location
Orlando
I switched to Chevron Supreme last week. My '97 Celica has 117K miles. The car has had Castrol GTX 10W30 as its primary oil till 106K...then I switched to Castrol GTX High Mileage & it made no difference. Then I switched to MaxLife & the engine ran better. Now having put in the Chevron...the engine is running smoother than ever. I have to give props to ppl on this board for recommending Chevron. I can really notice the difference in my engine...smoother & a slight increase in performance. Give Chevron a try.
 
Messages
190
Location
Minnesota
Mark, I use the sure drain plug and love it. It sure is easy to reach under there and just unscrew the top cover with your hand and then screw in the hose and direct it right into the pan with no mess! As far as the oils you mentioned any would be fine for the duration you have mentioned, plus since it will be so easy to do it with the sure drain plug you might even get antsy and want to go ahead and change it sooner (remember when it was kind of therapeutic to change your own oil) [Wink] . Good Day, Steven
 
Messages
22,188
Location
Colorado Springs
One other thing to think about is the fact that oil change shops lubricate your chassis components as well; something that shouldn't be overlooked. Especially on a 4wd jeep. It is very easy to do however. Your jeep probably only has grease fittings for the ball joints on the tie rod ends. I'm assuming it's the four link solid axle in the front, which has no ball joints.
 
Messages
3,346
Location
Clarksville, Tennessee
quote:
Originally posted by MarkC: Now, I hate to think of paying $24 or $29 every time. Maybe I will actually manage to start changing my own oil in the Jeep, though I don't hold out much hope for the Mitsubishi.
Don't you have a super walmart nearby?? I think they charge something like $15. Doesn't really matter what oil you use, your changin every 3000, all the oil's are about the same. Like it's all pumped out of the ground the same way. Change it every 3,000 with the cheapest oil and your car will be fine.
quote:
If it were mine that is what I would do! though everyone knows I'm an altra cheapskate and woudn't pay over $.89/quart for any over the counter oil
[ October 06, 2003, 12:44 PM: Message edited by: msparks ]
 
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